Construction photos of halfinator:
Inching my way along, but the pieces are slowly fitting together. Takes a lot of freggin planning ahead just to build a rectangle! I had no idea.
The Goldwoods:
Pay no mind to the extremely dirty carpet. It will be cleaned once I'm done making a mess of things.
Inching my way along, but the pieces are slowly fitting together. Takes a lot of freggin planning ahead just to build a rectangle! I had no idea.
The Goldwoods:
Pay no mind to the extremely dirty carpet. It will be cleaned once I'm done making a mess of things.
Seems to be quite a gap on the 2nd picture. Any idea why that is? Is the sides 300x300mm (11 13/16" x 11 13/16")?
Saturnus, the overall dimensions of the box are 295mm x 544mm. I am using the halfinator 2013 sketchup design by Rubenn. It seemed to have the correct updates from what I could tell (such as separate L & R instead of holes, two reflex ports, etc)
Halfinator 2013 design by rubennn - 3D Warehouse
Actually, right now I have it at 555mm. I could be misled here, but I made it a little longer as from what I could tell, erring on the side of too large is better than too small. I can cut away if it's necessary, though!
Halfinator 2013 design by rubennn - 3D Warehouse
Actually, right now I have it at 555mm. I could be misled here, but I made it a little longer as from what I could tell, erring on the side of too large is better than too small. I can cut away if it's necessary, though!
I'm afraid that drawing is incorrect and too big. And your drivers will neither fit nor work as intended.
Use the original drawing of the full Boominator and just cut one speaker section off and add as much room for electronics as you need. Some use it for a passive speaker to be pole mounted so they cut the electronics compartment completely.
If you want to separate the two sides, despite my recommendation not to, and instead make sure your mp3/aac files or sources in general is either mono, or joint stereo compressed which will make them mono in the bass region (this is the normal setting for mp3/aac compression and almost all mp3/aac files you buy/find on the internet will be in that format already), then you add 12mm to the length of the speaker section and remove the handle/port. That is all that is required apart from the obvious adding of 2 round ports instead of the handle/port.
In addition, it might be a good idea to pad the center brace with felt in that case as it now doesn't function as a diffuser but will instead reflect midrange frequencies back into the speaker cone.
Original drawing: BoominatorDIY by Saturnus - 3D Warehouse
EDIT: It's not a major disaster as it means making all the pieces, except the ends, smaller, and the end pieces can now fit on the outside instead of the inside if you're running out of room for electronics.
EDIT2: I also have to note that due to slightly changed dimensions of the GW1058 since I last bought some (in 2004 or 2005) it is necessary to route out some of the bulge on the back about 3mm in depth, or use 9mm pieces instead of 12mm pieces.
Use the original drawing of the full Boominator and just cut one speaker section off and add as much room for electronics as you need. Some use it for a passive speaker to be pole mounted so they cut the electronics compartment completely.
If you want to separate the two sides, despite my recommendation not to, and instead make sure your mp3/aac files or sources in general is either mono, or joint stereo compressed which will make them mono in the bass region (this is the normal setting for mp3/aac compression and almost all mp3/aac files you buy/find on the internet will be in that format already), then you add 12mm to the length of the speaker section and remove the handle/port. That is all that is required apart from the obvious adding of 2 round ports instead of the handle/port.
In addition, it might be a good idea to pad the center brace with felt in that case as it now doesn't function as a diffuser but will instead reflect midrange frequencies back into the speaker cone.
Original drawing: BoominatorDIY by Saturnus - 3D Warehouse
EDIT: It's not a major disaster as it means making all the pieces, except the ends, smaller, and the end pieces can now fit on the outside instead of the inside if you're running out of room for electronics.
EDIT2: I also have to note that due to slightly changed dimensions of the GW1058 since I last bought some (in 2004 or 2005) it is necessary to route out some of the bulge on the back about 3mm in depth, or use 9mm pieces instead of 12mm pieces.
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Hi there, i am just new here. I am planning to build the boominator (the standard version). I have to thanks alot Saturnus for his idea, knowledge and sharing for all these years of experience.
I am now trying to get all the stuff i need (speakers and electronics) before begining anything.
I choose the standard version because it is my first project like this and i would like to understand the basics. So i will use a passive filter, an amp6-basic and some sla batteries, with a solar pannel.
I already found the HP-10W's and i am looking for the tweeters.
I know this question has been asked a lot, sorry for that... What is the best to get with the HP-10W, i mean i have found both :
- pht-407N (cheap but shipping cost expensive)
- KSN1005 --> is there any difference between KSN1005 and KSN1005A? The store where i can buy it has only this reference and i can't find any datasheet for the KSN1005. In fact this is the real question, because if there are no diffenrece, the original concept from Saturnus was made with this kind of tweeters (correct me if i am wrong).
If i have choice for these tweeter, what is the best to do?
Sorry if my english is poor, i will try to make all efforts i can .
Regards,
Manu, from France
I am now trying to get all the stuff i need (speakers and electronics) before begining anything.
I choose the standard version because it is my first project like this and i would like to understand the basics. So i will use a passive filter, an amp6-basic and some sla batteries, with a solar pannel.
I already found the HP-10W's and i am looking for the tweeters.
I know this question has been asked a lot, sorry for that... What is the best to get with the HP-10W, i mean i have found both :
- pht-407N (cheap but shipping cost expensive)
- KSN1005 --> is there any difference between KSN1005 and KSN1005A? The store where i can buy it has only this reference and i can't find any datasheet for the KSN1005. In fact this is the real question, because if there are no diffenrece, the original concept from Saturnus was made with this kind of tweeters (correct me if i am wrong).
If i have choice for these tweeter, what is the best to do?
Sorry if my english is poor, i will try to make all efforts i can .
Regards,
Manu, from France
Thank you very much. It is very tricky reading through this thread and picking out the halfinator specific information. I must have incorrectly read that you recommended separating the box into two chambers (when it sounds like you're saying the exact opposite!). So if you don't mind reviewing my corrections/design:
1) Cut box down to original boominator dimensions. No problem.
2) Cut holes in center brace so that both speakers are in one chamber. You still recommend running two separate channels here, right? I know it is not as ideal as having one side running L and on running R as in the original boominator, but it is the better of the two options.
3) Adjust spacers to fit GW1058 dimensions.
4) Annoy DIYaudio community with my lack of knowledge!
I know you've done the tuning work and been working with this design for many years so I am very open to any advice.
1) Cut box down to original boominator dimensions. No problem.
2) Cut holes in center brace so that both speakers are in one chamber. You still recommend running two separate channels here, right? I know it is not as ideal as having one side running L and on running R as in the original boominator, but it is the better of the two options.
3) Adjust spacers to fit GW1058 dimensions.
4) Annoy DIYaudio community with my lack of knowledge!
I know you've done the tuning work and been working with this design for many years so I am very open to any advice.
Actually I might have written previously that it would be a good idea in theory to separate the 2 chambers when running stereo but it actually creates more problems than it solves. The easiest solution is to make sure your music is in mono in the bass region below 90-100hz or so but since that would almost always be the case even that can be mostly ignored.
Yes, I still recommend using stereo. It gives the best listening experience.
The suggested use is to build the halfinator exactly like a Boominator, just with only one speaker compartment. Use the handle/port for carrying it around, and lie it on the side directly in front of or behind the people that are supposed to listen to it with the port facing away from you and the tweeters farthest away. That will give the best listening experience.
Yes, I still recommend using stereo. It gives the best listening experience.
The suggested use is to build the halfinator exactly like a Boominator, just with only one speaker compartment. Use the handle/port for carrying it around, and lie it on the side directly in front of or behind the people that are supposed to listen to it with the port facing away from you and the tweeters farthest away. That will give the best listening experience.
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Ok, I can follow that advice! So at an event both sides of the box will actually be pointing sideways relative to the group. After I build it, the best part will be that I can play with positioning (I will likely use this in my garage as well).
And I will be using normally compressed mp3's most of the time so this seems to be headed in the right direction.
I appreciate you keeping up to date on a thread you started years ago.
And I will be using normally compressed mp3's most of the time so this seems to be headed in the right direction.
I appreciate you keeping up to date on a thread you started years ago.
Hi,
regarding pht407n, can shipping really be that expensive from the UK (bluearan) or Germany (intertechnik) to France? They are less than 1kg total.
regarding ksn1005a, motorola/cts/piezosource only made a driver called ksn1005a. If it says ksn1005 without the a it's most likely a replica. I usually recommend getting the Monacor mpt001 instead as shipping originals from piezosource to Europe is massively expensive and the 001 version is easier to install as it's a back mounted driver so you only have to drill/cut a hole. No need for routing out a flush mount. It's identical (more or less) to KSN1001A.
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hello hello, i was just wondering if these tweeters would be suitable for use in teh boominator
P-Audio PHT-407 15W High Frequency Horn and Compression Driver 10.18 IN STOCK (21 Aug 2013)
they appear to be similar just without the neodymium magnets?,
i have an amp 6 in the post, just waiting on some hp 10w to clear customs, found some birch ply in my area, so im guessing all i need now are the parts for teh crossover, and some batteries, alongside some connections.
can anyone recommend a good place to get the recessed panel and relative connections and ports.
any help would be greatly appreciated, i would like to get it done by next friday where i have my first job doing a circus workshop at a local festival, thanks in advance 🙂
P-Audio PHT-407 15W High Frequency Horn and Compression Driver 10.18 IN STOCK (21 Aug 2013)
they appear to be similar just without the neodymium magnets?,
i have an amp 6 in the post, just waiting on some hp 10w to clear customs, found some birch ply in my area, so im guessing all i need now are the parts for teh crossover, and some batteries, alongside some connections.
can anyone recommend a good place to get the recessed panel and relative connections and ports.
any help would be greatly appreciated, i would like to get it done by next friday where i have my first job doing a circus workshop at a local festival, thanks in advance 🙂
The frequency response is quite different and the sensitivity is significantly lower for the pht407 compared to pht407n so I wouldn't recommend it unless you have time to experiment with the filter. If you use a miniDSP that eliminates that problem though.
If you're waiting for the HP10W from bluearan, I expect that the pht407n is in the same shipment. Please ask bluearan about that.
If possible to find in your local area, I recommend construction grade (filmed) birch plywood as it's more durable and almost twice the stiffness of furniture grade (BB) birch plywood.
Bluearan also have all you need of recessed dish and connectors. Adam Hall :: Large steel connector dish - black 2.57 IN STOCK (21 Aug 2013)
(Note: no affiliation with bluearan what-so-ever, they are just one of the suppliers that have chosen to stock all the exact parts needed for building a Boominator, save the amplifier.)
If you're waiting for the HP10W from bluearan, I expect that the pht407n is in the same shipment. Please ask bluearan about that.
If possible to find in your local area, I recommend construction grade (filmed) birch plywood as it's more durable and almost twice the stiffness of furniture grade (BB) birch plywood.
Bluearan also have all you need of recessed dish and connectors. Adam Hall :: Large steel connector dish - black 2.57 IN STOCK (21 Aug 2013)
(Note: no affiliation with bluearan what-so-ever, they are just one of the suppliers that have chosen to stock all the exact parts needed for building a Boominator, save the amplifier.)
thanks a lot for your help, im looking at crossover parts from this schematic,
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...er-stab-ultimate-party-machine-boomfilter.jpg
can you tell me if they are correct.
Monacor 0.33mH Air Core Coil/Inductor 100W 3.77
Monacor :: Monacor LSR-47/20 4.7Ohm 20W Ceramic Resistor 1.12 IN STOCK (21 Aug 2013)
Monacor :: Monacor 1.5µF Bipolar Electrolytic Capacitors (pack of 4) 2.40
the coil and resistor im unsure of , the capacitor seems to match up.
should i wire them all to a board upon leaving the amp and do an identical scheme for the second channel.? blue aran don't seem to have boards to wire the componets but im sure i will find one.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...er-stab-ultimate-party-machine-boomfilter.jpg
can you tell me if they are correct.
Monacor 0.33mH Air Core Coil/Inductor 100W 3.77
Monacor :: Monacor LSR-47/20 4.7Ohm 20W Ceramic Resistor 1.12 IN STOCK (21 Aug 2013)
Monacor :: Monacor 1.5µF Bipolar Electrolytic Capacitors (pack of 4) 2.40
the coil and resistor im unsure of , the capacitor seems to match up.
should i wire them all to a board upon leaving the amp and do an identical scheme for the second channel.? blue aran don't seem to have boards to wire the componets but im sure i will find one.
You can use that filter but I'd recommend using the updated one. Brummiejon posted it on the previous page. He might also offer his opinion on what he ended up using as resistor because that was a part I wasn't completely sure of the correct matching for 4-6-8 ohm are possible choices.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...ab-ultimate-party-machine-84.html#post3595711
I can say that I very much dislike wire-wound resistors, and much prefer metal film instead. 5W is plenty. Get them here for example. They are also cheaper.
Mundorf M-Resist 5 Watt Metal Oxide Film Resistors - Hifi Collective
I also suggest MKT or MKP type capacitors instead of bipolar electrolytes. Might as well get them the same place as you get the resistors.
Mundorf Mcap MKP Capacitors - Hifi Collective
The inductor from Monacor is fine.
A piece of masonite is excellent to glue the components on (separate pieces for each channels). I suggest having the filter in the electronics compartment if there is room. That makes it possible to adjust later, or upgrade to active filtering at a later date.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...ab-ultimate-party-machine-84.html#post3595711
I can say that I very much dislike wire-wound resistors, and much prefer metal film instead. 5W is plenty. Get them here for example. They are also cheaper.
Mundorf M-Resist 5 Watt Metal Oxide Film Resistors - Hifi Collective
I also suggest MKT or MKP type capacitors instead of bipolar electrolytes. Might as well get them the same place as you get the resistors.
Mundorf Mcap MKP Capacitors - Hifi Collective
The inductor from Monacor is fine.
A piece of masonite is excellent to glue the components on (separate pieces for each channels). I suggest having the filter in the electronics compartment if there is room. That makes it possible to adjust later, or upgrade to active filtering at a later date.
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hi brummie jon
im going to be using hp 10 w and the 407n's could you enlighten me on which schematic you used the one in your previous post i am unsure as to whether that was for the basslite set up or for both, what have you used for your crossover? could you point me in the direction of the parts please im getting confused with all these numbers and letters
please please, tanks in advance pal
im going to be using hp 10 w and the 407n's could you enlighten me on which schematic you used the one in your previous post i am unsure as to whether that was for the basslite set up or for both, what have you used for your crossover? could you point me in the direction of the parts please im getting confused with all these numbers and letters
please please, tanks in advance pal
Hi Saturnus,
Thanks for your advices. The shop i found for the PHT-407N was very expensive. Blue-Aran seems to be be a good choice! It is not that expensive.
I will order the PHT-407N from blue-aran, for the filter it is OK, oyu just gave the link to the lastest version for the combo HP10W and PHT-407N.
Manu
Thanks for your advices. The shop i found for the PHT-407N was very expensive. Blue-Aran seems to be be a good choice! It is not that expensive.
I will order the PHT-407N from blue-aran, for the filter it is OK, oyu just gave the link to the lastest version for the combo HP10W and PHT-407N.
Manu
Would you recommand to wait the "Shiznit" amp instead of buying the amp6-basic?
I am not in hurry, and the construction will not begin before the end of september.
Manu
I am not in hurry, and the construction will not begin before the end of september.
Manu
filter
This is the filter I used for PHT-407N and HP10W...... However, I wired two of the 4ohm resistors in parrallel instead of just the one..... Saturnus reccommended that I experiment with this idea and the tweeters are slightly louder as a result (with two, 4ohm in parrallel) and I prefer it (I experimented it both configurations but I like my top end).... I used wite wound resistors because I didn't know any better, next time I will take Saturnses advice.....
The end result for me is a very detailed sound, I haven't measured what is going on with a spectrum analyser but it sounds great to mine, and everyone elses ears. Audiophiles and non-audiophiles all comment on the detailed sound quality, people are not used to hearing such hi-fidelity outdoors........
I found that I couldn't fit the crossovers in the electronics compartment. However, I can easily rewire to bypass the crossovers at a later data by removing the tweeters and I can pull out enough cable to reconfigure....
I probably won't bother tho, I'm just going to build another 24v boominator with 4 channels and a mini DSP..........
Dont get worrying about parts, it is a minefield for a noob but you'll learn so much by working some stuff out for yourself, I did.......
It's all in this forum if you can be bothered to look...... I spent months geeking out and after building one, I could build another without looking now....... However, i'm building a 4 channel, 24v one next so I'll probably have to...... 😉
BTW, I dont think that Blue Aaran stock HP10W's, I did ask them to and they should..... Are you listening Blue Aaran?
I'm looking forward to using the new Shiznit AMP in one of my boominators but I really need the four channels of an AMP9, anyone fancies building an AMP9 for me?
BJ
This is the filter I used for PHT-407N and HP10W...... However, I wired two of the 4ohm resistors in parrallel instead of just the one..... Saturnus reccommended that I experiment with this idea and the tweeters are slightly louder as a result (with two, 4ohm in parrallel) and I prefer it (I experimented it both configurations but I like my top end).... I used wite wound resistors because I didn't know any better, next time I will take Saturnses advice.....
The end result for me is a very detailed sound, I haven't measured what is going on with a spectrum analyser but it sounds great to mine, and everyone elses ears. Audiophiles and non-audiophiles all comment on the detailed sound quality, people are not used to hearing such hi-fidelity outdoors........
I found that I couldn't fit the crossovers in the electronics compartment. However, I can easily rewire to bypass the crossovers at a later data by removing the tweeters and I can pull out enough cable to reconfigure....
I probably won't bother tho, I'm just going to build another 24v boominator with 4 channels and a mini DSP..........
Dont get worrying about parts, it is a minefield for a noob but you'll learn so much by working some stuff out for yourself, I did.......
It's all in this forum if you can be bothered to look...... I spent months geeking out and after building one, I could build another without looking now....... However, i'm building a 4 channel, 24v one next so I'll probably have to...... 😉
BTW, I dont think that Blue Aaran stock HP10W's, I did ask them to and they should..... Are you listening Blue Aaran?
I'm looking forward to using the new Shiznit AMP in one of my boominators but I really need the four channels of an AMP9, anyone fancies building an AMP9 for me?
BJ
Attachments
Bluearan does in fact stock hp10w (well, once they clear customs that is): https://www.bluearan.com/index.php?id=PAUIMFHP10WX&browsemode=manufacturer
For 4 channels you could also get 2 shiznits and have one each for left and right. The DSP integrated in the amp will have such a set-up as one of the standard settings. Complete with filters.
For 4 channels you could also get 2 shiznits and have one each for left and right. The DSP integrated in the amp will have such a set-up as one of the standard settings. Complete with filters.
right, just to be sure i get the right resistor, can someone please point out the ones i should get from this selection
Mundorf M-Resist 5 Watt Metal Oxide Film Resistors - Hifi Collective
many thanks , its just i can't work out which ones are 4 ohms. 🙂
Mundorf M-Resist 5 Watt Metal Oxide Film Resistors - Hifi Collective
many thanks , its just i can't work out which ones are 4 ohms. 🙂