My active crossovers can handle the delays no problem, as should Audyssey Pro. I don't think the delay will be a problem.
This isn't a SPUD. Similar, but different design and construction I beleive. Although, I have only seen pictures of the SPUD.
Anyway, I am using these only for LFE, so anything on the LFE effects channel below 125Hz will be sent to the subs. As you can see by the REW sweep, they handle that just fine. I am still putting things together in my room and need to run Audyssey Pro when I'm done. Then, I will be able to see how they perform for movies etc.
Anyway, I am using these only for LFE, so anything on the LFE effects channel below 125Hz will be sent to the subs. As you can see by the REW sweep, they handle that just fine. I am still putting things together in my room and need to run Audyssey Pro when I'm done. Then, I will be able to see how they perform for movies etc.
Huh?!? 😕
It looks like a TH-SPUD to me and you're posting in a TH-SPUD thread?
Did you not follow the leaked TH-SPUD blueprint to build it?
I wish I had the real dimensions of a SPUD. Not all dimensions are included in the leaked plans. I actually had to figure some lengths out as I drew the template out. I also decided to do a different access door setup etc.
No big deal.
No big deal.
I was thinking about the time delay thing. I guess an outboard EQ with 22ms of time delay wouldn't really help at all, since you would actually be wanting to get the audio signal to the subs about 22ms before the main speakers get it. Not 22ms afterwards.
So you would need to set the sub to no delay and instead put 22ms of delay on the main speakers (at the AVR).
Just thinking out loud, trying to understand this.
So you would need to set the sub to no delay and instead put 22ms of delay on the main speakers (at the AVR).
Just thinking out loud, trying to understand this.
You are correct. If you wanted to time align all your drivers, you would set the driver with the longest time delay to 0 and then delay all the other 'closer' drivers accordingly so that the time delay for all of them would be the same. I actually have done that for my main speaker drivers, bass and hf driver and subwoofer. (I have individual subwoofers assigned to each main, Klipsch RSW-15).
After running Audyssey Pro yesterday, it seems I won't have to do a system time alignment manually, since Audyssey takes care of that when in 7.1 surround.
Right now, the system seems to be running fine and Audyssey Pro did not complain of any issues when taking measurements.
After running Audyssey Pro yesterday, it seems I won't have to do a system time alignment manually, since Audyssey takes care of that when in 7.1 surround.
Right now, the system seems to be running fine and Audyssey Pro did not complain of any issues when taking measurements.
Reviving a old thread, question for the guys who built this. I am having trouble figuring out were the angled piece begins and end. I know it is 60 degrees from the out side edge but were do I mark out my 60 degree line. Hopefully my question makes since. I see that they have a 4" measurement from the inside of one of the out side pieces, to were the joint would be. But how far in do I measure off of.
Any help would be appreciated.
Any help would be appreciated.
One more thing as I am thinking about it, if the overall dimensions are 45x48x11", if you cut 1/4" dados in both sides, that would total a 1/2". Subtract that from 1 1/2" between the 2 outer panels, which makes each panel 1/2" or 1". Then you only cut the rest of the panels 9 1/2" once recessed in the 1/4" dado you would have a overall outer dimension of 10 1/2". Wouldn't you want to cut the inside panels to 10". Man I hate trying to type this out.
I cut rabbets and dados in my build to ensure a solid build with no air leaks. I kept the interior volume the same and made whatever dimension adjustments I needed to not disturb the dimensions in your drawing.
It appears the distance from the right side of the angled lower speaker baffle to the left interior horn throat wall is 9.25".
If you decide to use dados or rabbet joints the interior height should remain as designed, 9.5".
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If it's the interior height should remain 9.5" then I just need to compensate for the dados by adding .5" to the interior walls.
Thanks a bunch I think I have what I need to properly get the template laid out.
Build using 2*Peerless 830452
Hey guys, so I had a couple of 830452 being used in the passive radiator design and thought I'd knock up the TH using the Spud like designs floating round.
Thought I'd post it here as someone had modelled this driver.
Here's the measurements taken outside, but in a small courtyard, at about 1meter.
Hey guys, so I had a couple of 830452 being used in the passive radiator design and thought I'd knock up the TH using the Spud like designs floating round.
Thought I'd post it here as someone had modelled this driver.
Here's the measurements taken outside, but in a small courtyard, at about 1meter.
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