Hello Dear mrgsr
I want to build a basic ported box for 10" (8Ohm)subwoofer to drive on the 100W amplifier.I have 100w subwoofer amp, I don't know any specification of Subwoofer, only know its support for 100w.
My use for only home entertaining.Box Should be designed for support 40Hz to 200Hz freq.I want to use 15mm MDF.Please help
That JBL is blown and I simply use it for sizing when building cabinets. I have not had a chance to do any measurements yet. I did load them with Faital Pro 18HP1060s and played with them for a few minutes at the shop while I finished up assembling the other two. I'm still not sure if I like them or not. They seem to sound very different and well there is a lot of pressure and bass when you're up close, as you walk away it seems to disappear very rapidly. They were being run with a QSC rmx 4050 bridged at 4 Ohms.
A funny thing to note is that they really do need a high pass filter. We were playing some Bass track on YouTube in the background at a higher volume but nowhere near what would have been the drivers maximum output and I noticed there was a bass line that went down into the subsonic frequencies and as it did the driver literally sounded like it was going to self-destruct from over Excursion. Scared me to death but the driver seems to be okay.
I suggest doing an impedance and FR check to see if you've got a leak around the driver where it's screwed into the baffle. From the pictures, it looks like the driver cutout may be a bit too big (a mistake I've seen - and made! - a few times with these TH builds is cutting the baffle as if the driver is going to be mounted through it instead of on top of it - this results in a cutout that's too large that significantly increases the possibility of a leak, at the worst possible place to have one in a TH.
A friend has a Parts Express woofer tester and I will use it to get some impedance graphs and post them.
We set up on Friday night and the gig was on Saturday. The room sounds terrible so I did very little tuning. I set a highpass at 32hz and lowpass was somewhere between 70-90hz at 12db, cant remember what I last set it at.
Where we dj'd from (beside them) there were lots of abnormal resonant freq sounds that wasn't really heard out front. I chalk some up to the room. Some songs sounded terrible and others sounded incredible.
Last 3 years I used 4 18's, 2 Faital 18HP1060 in small low tuned reflex and 2 RCF L18P300 in a larger low tuned reflex. The bass was enough but I would spend most of the night tickling the clip light of a bridged into 8 ohms RMX4050. I used the same amp configuration but never hit clip and had more lowish bass but the upper bass sounded funny. On some of the low notes it was seriously shaking the concrete floor. In front of the stack the bass was pretty tactile. I ended the night with Same Love from Macklemore (it was gay pride) and the bass line sounded good and punchy in front of the stack. I will do some actual comparisons to my reflex when I get a chance. I figured I would throw up some pics.
Loaded with a Faital Pro 18HP1060
All 4 cabs. 2 are loaded with Faital Pro 18HP1060 and the other 2 are borrowed 18HP1030
They barely fit in my trailer. I had to take out a few things.
Sound and lighting set up on Friday.
House lights off.
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This thread is to discuss the Xoc1 TH18 cabinet. If you wish to get help with a new design then I would suggest you start a new topic thread and there are plenty of people that will see it and be happy to help you.
My experience with tapped horns is that they interact and couple with the room and you may need to reposition the speakers to get the accoustics right.
I only use a pair of 15" TH cabs but find that spacing them apart under the mid tops reduces the throw and grouping them together centrally allows them to throw bass to the back of the venue.
In your case you could have tried a central grouping of the bass bins or maybe used them in stereo pairs close to the side walls but pulled forward, to avoid putting them directly in the corners. Have Fun!
Regards Martin (Xoc1)
I only use a pair of 15" TH cabs but find that spacing them apart under the mid tops reduces the throw and grouping them together centrally allows them to throw bass to the back of the venue.
In your case you could have tried a central grouping of the bass bins or maybe used them in stereo pairs close to the side walls but pulled forward, to avoid putting them directly in the corners. Have Fun!
Regards Martin (Xoc1)
Hi
Positioning subs in the right distance to walls or to each other is very important. a single-cluster near the walls is the best thing fore sure but mostly not possible. yesterday we built up 3 TH118 per side. the distance to the backwall was about 5m, the distance between L and R was about 7m. the effect was a loss of pressure around 30-35Hz. there was also a deep flutter-effect. some frequencies sounded like they would come twice. it was very strange and sounded disappounting. then we changed the distance to the backwall. with 3m we shifted cancellations to higher frequncies (shorter wavelenght). after that the sound was perfect. nearly flat response down to 30Hz. 25Hz were also impressive (playing judgement dub).
Attachments
this are 3pcs of TH18 stacked over each other in "lying-mode"
One Top needs 3 TH18 for best coupling. this gives also the perfect height for the top
in this special case even Napoleon wasn't able to bomb the castle down. this historic room is in the underground surrounded by rocks. good for techno and no stress with the neighbours
this are 3pcs of TH18 stacked over each other in "lying-mode"
One Top needs 3 TH18 for best coupling. this gives also the perfect height for the top
What tops do you have that kerp up with 3 th18?
Did some feel tests with my cabs and found at least 2 cabs had some form of small air leak so i decided to internally reseal all seams with glue. This is obviously very difficult to do on a completely constructed horn.
I got a little inventive. I got a gallon of titebond 2 glue, a Harbor Freight gear oil pump with hose and then hose clamped it onto a 2 foot Harbor Freight air hose nozzle. With this set up I could get to at least one side of every panel seam within the box. I used almost three-quarters of the gallon on for cabinets but I wanted to make sure they were sealed. It does make a huge mess though. LOL. I have holes for a top hat on the top of the cabinet and on both sides of the cabinet where the empty cavity is. Also the opening where the Jack Plate goes made access to all the seams doable. I will put the drivers back in tomorrow and see if it makes any difference.
I got a little inventive. I got a gallon of titebond 2 glue, a Harbor Freight gear oil pump with hose and then hose clamped it onto a 2 foot Harbor Freight air hose nozzle. With this set up I could get to at least one side of every panel seam within the box. I used almost three-quarters of the gallon on for cabinets but I wanted to make sure they were sealed. It does make a huge mess though. LOL. I have holes for a top hat on the top of the cabinet and on both sides of the cabinet where the empty cavity is. Also the opening where the Jack Plate goes made access to all the seams doable. I will put the drivers back in tomorrow and see if it makes any difference.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Did some feel tests with my cabs and found at least 2 cabs had some form of small air leak so i decided to internally reseal all seams with glue. This is obviously very difficult to do on a completely constructed horn.
I got a little inventive. I got a gallon of titebond 2 glue, a Harbor Freight gear oil pump with hose and then hose clamped it onto a 2 foot Harbor Freight air hose nozzle. With this set up I could get to at least one side of every panel seam within the box. I used almost three-quarters of the gallon on for cabinets but I wanted to make sure they were sealed. It does make a huge mess though. LOL. I have holes for a top hat on the top of the cabinet and on both sides of the cabinet where the empty cavity is. Also the opening where the Jack Plate goes made access to all the seams doable. I will put the drivers back in tomorrow and see if it makes any difference.
you can also spray the leaks with underbody protection coating. closes everything but gives a mess too.
double 10" hornloaded low-mids with Faital 10FH500 (100-700Hz) + BMS4590 Coaxial Mid/High (700Hz/7kHz) with Limmer 033 horn (60x40), all selfpowered with Pascal X-Pro3 Class D Amps + 64Bit/96kHz DSP from AllDsp (Germany).
using 3 TH18 the input of the top is set to 0dB, using 2 subs it's -3 dB and when using only one TH input gain is -9dB. works well...