Thanks for everyones help and for the pics. I will try to find some time this weekend to break open the sub/amp and figure out what is going on. This is all new to me so wish me luck. Thanks Again!
Looked into fixing the problem yesterday. I had it taken apart but still hooked up and tried to tap on everything to wee if it would kick on and got nothing at all. There are no signs of anything that is broke or burnt. At this point it is above my level of electronics. I'm not sure where to go from here with this. I took out the amp and the control piece that is connected with a ribbon style cable.
The next step would be to check the voltage at various points on the boards. If you unclamped any transistors from the sink, you need to replace and tighten the clamps before you do anything else.
Post a list of the DC voltages on all 16 pins of the TL494. Look up the datasheet if you don't know how the pins are numbered.
Post a list of the DC voltages on all 16 pins of the TL494. Look up the datasheet if you don't know how the pins are numbered.
Perry I appreciate all of the help you have given me but I am not a person who knows anything about electronic circuit boards. I thought that maybe there would be something obvious when I took everything apart but there isn't. I am sorry but I don't even know what a transistor looks like and I don't have any data sheet for this. I really wish I had the skills to do this but it is way over my level of knowledge. I know how to hook up the componenets, adjust etc. I'm just not able to test circit boards at this point. Like I said, I wish I knew how to. Thanks for all of your help Perry. I really do appreciate it a lot.
If you want to learn a bit more, go through the basic repair page (link below). The datasheet is easy to find. Google:
datasheet TL494
datasheet TL494
Perry has some great photos to help you recognize the components. The 494 is often the only 16 pin IC near the round toroid transformer and says that number on top of it. The notch in one end signifies the #1 pin end as shown on a datasheet. Also near it will be a group of transistors on the heat sink as the 12v current runs through those transistors and transformer, controlled by the 494 IC. If you want to know more about it, this is the way to find out. Things don't always melt when they blow, good thing too as it is a pain to clean up. It could be real simple, or not hard to say until you check the simple things.
Perry I am going to have one of my buddies here at work help me test this. He actually knows what he is doing so that will help me out quite a bit. It may be quite a few days before/if I find out what is going on with this. Hopefully I can learn something. Thanks Again Perry!
The RCA low level inputs on the sub unit have a left and a right channel input so there are a total of 4 rca inputs on the sub unit. I only have 2 RCA outputs on the head unit for the sub. I think I may of had one side on the left and one on the right into the sub. Is this bad? Would I be alright to run to just the left or just the right? Do I need to split the 2 RCA cables into a 4 way? Not quite sure if I could have blown something in the unit by having one channel on the left and one on the right into the sub. How should it be hooked up? Thanks Again Everyone.
You can use any of the RCA inputs in any configuration. You don't need to use y-cables to jump to the other two jacks.
Thank you for the schematic Perry. I need to test the speaker. The guy I work with has found nothing wrong with the amp so far. When you sent me the schematic you said that the speaker is a 3 ohm speaker. I didn't know that there was such a speaker. I thought they were 2 or 4 ohm for cars. What should I read if the speaker is good or bad as far as ohms? If the speaker is bad can I replace it with a regular 4 ohm 10" sub? Maybe this unit is not worth fixing. Any thoughts from anyone would be greatly appreciated. thanks agian!
I'd expect to read between 2.8 and 3 ohms across the voice coil.
A 4 ohm speaker would work but wouldn't get quite as much power from the amplifier (compared to the 3 ohm).
A 4 ohm speaker would work but wouldn't get quite as much power from the amplifier (compared to the 3 ohm).
I have found that the speaker is bad. I don't think it will be worth putting in a new speaker though. I think I may just shell out some money for a new amp and sub. Idon't want to take up alot of trunk space though. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to buy. I think I want to go with a sealed enclosure for space savings and also I have been told that a sealed box is a lot cleaner for bass. I don't wan't my whole car to vibrate but it would be nice to feel a little bit of a bass kick. Thanks again for all of the help you gave to me Perry!
What sub is a huge question depending on power levels, sound you want, brands you like, etc. I have a MTX 4500 10" I've used on a old ppi 300w bridged. It worked really nice IMO for a single 10 and is in a MTX recommended .85cf size sealed box. I don't have any particular love or hate for MTX, but this sub sounded nice to me compared to many others that had less low end extension in that size box. Is rated for 225rms, so not huge power but should out play a single 10 powered box I would think. A good amp bridged at 300rms should work nicely if you don't clip it hard. You have to be careful of small sealed boxes because many subs will not make any low bass in them, you have to pick the right sub. Most say they work in a small sealed but they only play 50Hz and up...unless you want that.
Thanks jol. I was thinking of using a MTX JackHammer Sub 10" in a sealed enclosure. I have a small shop here and that is what they recommended. Only problem is that I can't audition it because the shop is that small. They are telling me that the Autotek mono amp will do a fine job. I am not familiar with Autotek though. I was told that they are a step above the Hi-Fonics and made by the same company. I am very familiar with PPI and I know they are really clean amps but I am on a budget. Also, would the pre-fabed sealed box be alright or should I build my own? I am running a 4 channel old school 55X4 Alpine V12 to Pioneer Premier 6X9's (with Basalt Material) in the back and Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS 6.75" components in the front. The front speakers are absolutley amazing. I just wasn't sure if I was running enough power to the fronts or not but it does sound good with the gain almost to 3/4 on the fronts and 1/2 gain to the rears with the amp crossover set to 80 Hertz on front and rear. Not sure if this is setup optimal or not. I need to get some Dynamat in the front for sure as the low end will vibrate sometimes. Any suggestions??
I don't know about PPI, this is actually a sansui built by them. It works fine but I put a 300rms (older) soundstream in on a 12 I had and it went much louder than the ppi ever did. At that time the transistors had come unsoldered is why I swapped amps, but don't think they had before that. I get most of my amps used, not sure I would worry as much about amp brand but cheap ones fib the power they make and that is most important. If you want newer maybe look at alpine's mrp-m450 a 400rms class d I ran a little that worked nice and very small/efficient for your kind of setup. A while back they could be had used for around 70 shipped, or there are other sizes. I like the alpines, though these are China made today. I prefer the older mrv but a newer class d on subs to save power. In fact have a mrv here to try when I get to it.
Maxxsonics makes autotek/hifonics/and some others. IMO they seem to be good amps, like a kicker I guess though some do not agree. They are middle of the road amps, not expensive but not junk. Also been told the cerwin vega amps are good for price, but again I don't use many new amps. I bought a new kicker and need to swap it out and see if it is causing my issues. Not going to bad mouth it until I know. Today amp issues are mostly durability and actual power they make...not sound.
Make box or buy is up to you. I have mine in that mtx brand box and I can say its a little more HD looking than the q-logic boxes, but not had trouble with either. I usually make my own boxes but got a deal on some 10 and 12 boxes back then. I might have one left not sure. Your high side amp/speakers look good to me you will have to listen to your ears to verify if they work in your car/install of course.
Try to fix those doors up, stiffen the panel up and or fasten stuff down, sometimes you can put foam behind rods to get rid of vibrations and little tricks like that. Biggest problem I have is its so weak, many doors you can grab the speaker and pull the whole panel in/out so I try to put wood on it or something. Deadening helps but you can deaden a balloon too you know and it still moves when you push on it. I didn't do this car yet and midbass is hurting because of it.
Maxxsonics makes autotek/hifonics/and some others. IMO they seem to be good amps, like a kicker I guess though some do not agree. They are middle of the road amps, not expensive but not junk. Also been told the cerwin vega amps are good for price, but again I don't use many new amps. I bought a new kicker and need to swap it out and see if it is causing my issues. Not going to bad mouth it until I know. Today amp issues are mostly durability and actual power they make...not sound.
Make box or buy is up to you. I have mine in that mtx brand box and I can say its a little more HD looking than the q-logic boxes, but not had trouble with either. I usually make my own boxes but got a deal on some 10 and 12 boxes back then. I might have one left not sure. Your high side amp/speakers look good to me you will have to listen to your ears to verify if they work in your car/install of course.
Try to fix those doors up, stiffen the panel up and or fasten stuff down, sometimes you can put foam behind rods to get rid of vibrations and little tricks like that. Biggest problem I have is its so weak, many doors you can grab the speaker and pull the whole panel in/out so I try to put wood on it or something. Deadening helps but you can deaden a balloon too you know and it still moves when you push on it. I didn't do this car yet and midbass is hurting because of it.
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