Today's progress:
Gluing the last panel ....
Then I started making a front baffel out of some of the left over BB. No it is not the perfect dimensions ... and no it is not a continuous taper .... but it is what I am going to use ..... I glued together two pieces of 13" x 13", so It is 1 1/2" thick ... cut the sides at 45 deg.
and after alot of sanding to get rid of the burn marks from my dull circular saw blade.
more later this weekend. The drivers are still running 24/7 in the garage cardboard box rig.
Gluing the last panel ....
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Then I started making a front baffel out of some of the left over BB. No it is not the perfect dimensions ... and no it is not a continuous taper .... but it is what I am going to use ..... I glued together two pieces of 13" x 13", so It is 1 1/2" thick ... cut the sides at 45 deg.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and after alot of sanding to get rid of the burn marks from my dull circular saw blade.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
more later this weekend. The drivers are still running 24/7 in the garage cardboard box rig.
Very impressive indeed. Beats my inept work, that's for sure. 😉
BTW -FWIW, I hate those plastic terminal trays. They vibrate, they can disrupt the airflow, they cost too much for what they are. Nah, not for me. Give me solid binding posts any day, drilled through the cabinet. Look better too. Of course, it means you're pretty much stuck with the internal wire you select, as changing it will be very difficult unless you've made the base removable and the posts near the floor, but if you made a sensible wire choice in the first place that shouldn't be much of an issue as there isn't much of it anyway. Connections are a pain in the backside & cause more problems than most any piece of wire ever will.
BTW -FWIW, I hate those plastic terminal trays. They vibrate, they can disrupt the airflow, they cost too much for what they are. Nah, not for me. Give me solid binding posts any day, drilled through the cabinet. Look better too. Of course, it means you're pretty much stuck with the internal wire you select, as changing it will be very difficult unless you've made the base removable and the posts near the floor, but if you made a sensible wire choice in the first place that shouldn't be much of an issue as there isn't much of it anyway. Connections are a pain in the backside & cause more problems than most any piece of wire ever will.
Just looking at your baffle. I would give a bit more radius on the bevel to flat and install at least (minimum) a 2" traling edge with a radius where you can. Trust me , it helps.
ron
ron
peterbrorsson said:
Yes on the KTM's, a 640 ADV R and a 450 exc, (and a older Beta trials bike, and a Yamaha, and a Kawi and a ....... its a bit of and addiction)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Living in So. Cal, I have the good fortune of riding Baja on a regular basis:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Scottmoose said:
This is exactly my plan. I am going to use threaded inserts and some strips of foam to seal the base, so it will be removable. Either mounting posts, or just a hole with wire running direct, then sealed with silicone.
ronc said:
Well ... I am sure this would be better, and I will attack that as an upgrade, made by a qualified woodworker. As I made it from left over pieces, it is already undersized so I will replace it later. It will be removable, held on with t-nuts with a foam gasket.
but you never know .... I have a buddy that has a belt sander. 😱
G.Kennedy,
That's a great pic with the cactus and hills as a backdrop. Looks like great mtn. biking terrain as well.
Jeff
That's a great pic with the cactus and hills as a backdrop. Looks like great mtn. biking terrain as well.
Jeff
More progress ......
I mounted the front baffle on one of the cabinets. It turned out pretty good. I wish I had only used 4 bolts in the corners, 6 bolts looks a bit heavy ...oh well.
When I remake a better version of the baffle, I will only use the corners and plug the middle holes.
more later ....
I mounted the front baffle on one of the cabinets. It turned out pretty good. I wish I had only used 4 bolts in the corners, 6 bolts looks a bit heavy ...oh well.
When I remake a better version of the baffle, I will only use the corners and plug the middle holes.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
more later ....
Could you hide them behind the driver flange, using flat head c-sink screws? Just a thought.
Jeff
Jeff
You could always cover them in red leather, for that authenic 18th century English ale-house look... 😉
Scottmoose said:
Before this project is finished ... you may see some red .... I am thinking pretty bold with the color. Not leather , but wood dye.
Todays progress ...
Driver installed in #1. No bottom yet, but it is making music.
more later ......
Driver installed in #1. No bottom yet, but it is making music.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
more later ......
Thanks for the updates -looking impressive.
BTW red wine, or tea as a dye should do rather nicely.
BTW red wine, or tea as a dye should do rather nicely.
Good point. One problem with the wine of course is that there's always a temptation to drink it... 😉
Vix said:
..then they will sound even better...
😀
Btw, nice work! 😉
It could get to be expensive, and hard on the liver, if consumption was a prerequisite to them sounding good.
Sir, I beg to differ
Chris,
the cost of some misbegotten experiments would have bought me galleons of wine.
😀 Pit
Chris,
the cost of some misbegotten experiments would have bought me galleons of wine.
😀 Pit