Terry Cain's BIB -why does it work and does anyone have those Fostex Craft Handbooks?

Godzilla...
I did up a google sketchup model of the FE126/127 BIB... you might find it useful for illustrating the BIB concept on your site.

snapshot attached. model file is in the Google 3D Warehouse titled FE126/FE127 BIB -- i don't know why it keeps calling me anonymous?

Scott...
Is there a more optimum position for Zd for FE127. I think this one would be better flipped over (and i have an idea wrt the karlson coupler.

dave
 

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planet10 said:
Godzilla...
I did up a google sketchup model of the FE126/127 BIB... you might find it useful for illustrating the BIB concept on your site.

snapshot attached. model file is in the Google 3D Warehouse titled FE126/FE127 BIB -- i don't know why it keeps calling me anonymous?

Scott...
Is there a more optimum position for Zd for FE127. I think this one would be better flipped over (and i have an idea wrt the karlson coupler.

dave


Nice work guys.

Dave- I'll have a check & get back to you ASAP. With it flipped over, & not being too tall, we can move the driver into a notionally 'better' positional along the line. Sounds interesting re the K-Slot too...
 
Scottmoose said:
With it flipped over, & not being too tall, we can move the driver into a notionally 'better' positional along the line. Sounds interesting re the K-Slot too...

See i have these cute little spiked feet to lift the base of the speaker off the floor, but i don't think enuff to provide full mouth volume. The extra required would be a k-slot on the back.

dave
 
Cat hair cable

Hi Guys, the website was down last night and so I've now missed a couple of evenings posts. Reading the comment about the Cat5 cable has reassured me - thanks for the pics.

And no-one followed the comment about all the cat hair. Come on you lot, there has to be joke about having to have 5 cats or something. 2 runs needs 10 cats to make all the fur needed...I don't know

all a bit late now, but I'm amusing myself...

Ordered the drivers from madi. Picking up ply early next week.

I have another question..I can get hold of hardwood in good quantities as I live fairly close to a merchant and the offcuts section is an aladins cave. Do you think that it would make a difference to the overall sound of the speakers if I used solid wood (ie oak) for the front? Does it need the properties of ply in order to have 'right' balance?

Mmmm
 

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super baffle

I had the BIB upgraded with the super baffle, and certainly found the sound improve quite a lot especially good in the mid-low and low spectrum. I also found the sound more relax and airy. I just love it and will leave the baffle on forever.

dmason,
you asked about the schema of that 1625 power amp. This is only a very simple design. 5U4 with 10H choke and DC filament for 1625. Paralell 5842 with LL1660 interstage. 470R and 220uf cathode bypass for 1625 and I run the 1625 in triode SE.:smash:
 

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So, I have been planning on building a pair of these, but building them in an MTM fashion, each with a pair of CSS WR125ST's and a JrApex Jr supertweet. Well, I've decided to scrap those plans and would rather build with a single full-ranger (not decided on what yet).

To this end, I'm wondering if anybody is interested in these WR125ST's - buy or trade. I got them from Dave @ Planet10 for a bipolar project that sounded nice, just not quite what I was looking for in the end. They are matched sets by measurement and are low hours - basically new. 16-ohm ea if that's not obvious.

Kevin
 
Thanks for that Albert. I pick up my birch ply tomorrow morning. I have also found a source of 1.25 thick ash planks which I could use for the front. Rather than have a small dougnut shaped baffle, I was thinking that I could make the BIB, using ply for the sides and chipboard for the front and rear. I could then put a full length baffle ie another front piece (in solid ash) to hold the driver and give it more distance from the internal baffle.

Not sure if it will be worth the money though, as it sounds like you are more than happy using the dougnut shaped supra baffle and it was an improvement on your original build. Do you think the improvement came from the baffle or from the fact that the driver has now got more space behind it?

Martin:scratch:
 
Martin.
I thought the effect is mainly from the space behind the driver. I just follow whatever the threads recommanded. I thought too much space behind might not be good. You mentioned about the wood is 1 1/4 thick, my baffle is only 3/4" thickness.
Albert
 
stroop said:
Ok, so no-one responded to using coax cable like I mentioned. Does that mean no-one has tried it? It's worth a go! Seriously! Middle copper core to + shielding if it is a woven type to - copper is best.

Stroop


I meant to reply earlier, sorry. Coax has a differential impedance of 75 ohm. This means, kind of, that it is not so much of a resitive load, but acts more like an inductive load. I am not the greatest at crossovers, but, this would be similiar to a resistor and inductor in parallel getting hooked to the + and - of your speaker. This would change your impedance and frequency curves a bit, but it would be dependant on the frequencies being injected. Hope this clarifies. I never liked ELI THE ICE MAN!