Couple of things have come up and I am running a little low in cash, I have two of these subwoofers already:
Any chance they would work in a BIB bass horn alignment? Ideally, I would love to use my current full rangers in an open baffle configuration and have stereo bass from the two towers
I would probably have them crossed over at 200-300hz where the FRs would kick in...
Specifications: *Power Handling: 80 watts RMS/120 watts max
*Le: 1.2 mH
*Impedance: 8 ohms per coil(4 in parallel)
*Re: 3.00 ohms
*Fs: 28 Hz
*SPL: 89.0 dB 2.83V/1m
*Vas: 1.40 cu. ft.
*Qms: 3.40 *Qes: .47
*Qts: .41
*Xmax: 6 mm
*Dimensions: Overall Diameter: 8-1/2", Cutout Diameter: 7-1/8", Mounting Depth: 4-1/4".
Power would be around 75-100 watts on tap 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Any chance they would work in a BIB bass horn alignment? Ideally, I would love to use my current full rangers in an open baffle configuration and have stereo bass from the two towers
I would probably have them crossed over at 200-300hz where the FRs would kick in...Specifications: *Power Handling: 80 watts RMS/120 watts max
*Le: 1.2 mH
*Impedance: 8 ohms per coil(4 in parallel)
*Re: 3.00 ohms
*Fs: 28 Hz
*SPL: 89.0 dB 2.83V/1m
*Vas: 1.40 cu. ft.
*Qms: 3.40 *Qes: .47
*Qts: .41
*Xmax: 6 mm
*Dimensions: Overall Diameter: 8-1/2", Cutout Diameter: 7-1/8", Mounting Depth: 4-1/4".
Power would be around 75-100 watts on tap 🙂
Of course they will. Just plug them through one of the BIB Excel sheets to get the appropriate dimensions. I'd be using the 0.416 line length Zdriver rather than 0.217 to supress harmonic ripple as far as possible.
Sorry forgot to mention, because the Low FS of the driver I am getting massive dimensions for the cab:Scottmoose said:
Line Length 240.438
Folded Height 120.219
Vb 255.902
Sm 3678.279
Depth 72.124
Width 50.999
zdriver 52.175
a-b-c 36.062
Im looking for something less than 8 feet 😀 I remember somewhere that the tuning length can be higher than the FS for low FS drivers, I just don't how I would go about doing that...
BTW I used zayne742's spreadsheet post #3597. Used GM's and I get relatively the same value for Vb...😕
Try using 35-40 hz for the FS. It drops the height to 8' at 35hz, and 7' at 40hz.
VB should be the same as GM's math. The spreadsheet was made using his, and other's math, the only thing I added was the wood calculator.
VB should be the same as GM's math. The spreadsheet was made using his, and other's math, the only thing I added was the wood calculator.
How would that plot though? Could anyone throw those in MJK's spreadsheet please? I want to see if its really worth it...
Edit: Im still getting massive numbers for the depth, 80 deep 😱
Edit: Im still getting massive numbers for the depth, 80 deep 😱
Same with my sheet. For Fs just enter whatever frequency gives you a reasonable line length (don't go over about 45Hz of course or they simply won't go very low). You'll find that the WxD dimensions simply increase to preserve the Vb lost in shortening the enclosure.
Fast1one said:
Then you're doing something wrong. See attached figures for one with an F10 of ~20Hz (should be strong to ~25Hz in-room). These are internal WxD (D includes 3/4in or 18mm for the thickness of the sloping internal baffle) and they're nothing like what you're getting -roughtly 11.5in wide x 16.375in deep. (note -I just used the Imperial values, ignore the Metric ones which are still on their default setting for a different driver).
Attachments
How embarrassing, I was entering the VAS value in LITERS and not Cubic feet for imperial units 🙁 Thanks Scott! Your always a great help here at DIY, time to go get wood!Scottmoose said:
~92db 1w / 1m, before room-gain. Not as much as one of Tom Danley's tapped horns of course, but not bad for an 8in driver down to 25Hz.
Wow awesome! Exactly what I was looking for! I'm ordering a couple extra things right now, should start building pretty soon...little hard with school and all, only really have the weekends...Scottmoose said:
FE168es
Thanks for your comments Ron, sorry for the delay ...I was interrupted by work! Andrew
Thanks for your comments Ron, sorry for the delay ...I was interrupted by work! Andrew
Help for choosing internal baffle thickness needed !!!
Gentlemen,
I finally rescued the ex-cabinet, soon-to-be-BIB veneered chipboard from the dark depths of the underground garage where they were stored.
Now I have enough material to make the fronts and internal baffles for a couple of FE166E BIBs.
Due to the amount of material available, not enough, as usual, I must choose between making the internal baffle 3/4 inch and the back 1 inch or the reverse. Front will be 1 inch without a doubt, and for the sides I will be getting that pine ply within the next two weeks.
Do you have suggestions ?
Due to internal pressure build-up I would say internal 1 inch, back 3/4, but I am known not to be always right 😉
Thanks in advance for your help... I will have the circular saw for 1 day only and today is an excellent day to cut wood !!!
Gastón
Gentlemen,
I finally rescued the ex-cabinet, soon-to-be-BIB veneered chipboard from the dark depths of the underground garage where they were stored.
Now I have enough material to make the fronts and internal baffles for a couple of FE166E BIBs.
Due to the amount of material available, not enough, as usual, I must choose between making the internal baffle 3/4 inch and the back 1 inch or the reverse. Front will be 1 inch without a doubt, and for the sides I will be getting that pine ply within the next two weeks.
Do you have suggestions ?
Due to internal pressure build-up I would say internal 1 inch, back 3/4, but I am known not to be always right 😉
Thanks in advance for your help... I will have the circular saw for 1 day only and today is an excellent day to cut wood !!!
Gastón
Internal bafle...
Hi all,
From my recent experience in building a FE168ES BIB (I’ll report soon) I found the internal baffle to be a critical part of a BIB .
Mine is 16 mm, that's too thin and can vibrate and act as a sort of short-circuit for the HF.
Rebuilding mine, I would use 1in of ply + mdf compound or something like that, to get a strong died panel…
Hi all,
From my recent experience in building a FE168ES BIB (I’ll report soon) I found the internal baffle to be a critical part of a BIB .
Mine is 16 mm, that's too thin and can vibrate and act as a sort of short-circuit for the HF.
Rebuilding mine, I would use 1in of ply + mdf compound or something like that, to get a strong died panel…
Thanks, Scott.
I have the panels cut. 1" for external structure, 3/4 fro the baffle.
I'll report as soon as I get the rest of the wood.
I also think the internal baffle is important to the working. In this case it's a veneered two density chipboard sandwich I got from a cabinet (veneer + ~1/8" MDF + ~1/2" chipboard + ~1/8" MDF + veneer) and I expect it to have high impedance to the HF. My main concern was LF vibration, and that's another different issue. To see how it works I should get some accelerometer...
Gastón
I have the panels cut. 1" for external structure, 3/4 fro the baffle.
I'll report as soon as I get the rest of the wood.
I also think the internal baffle is important to the working. In this case it's a veneered two density chipboard sandwich I got from a cabinet (veneer + ~1/8" MDF + ~1/2" chipboard + ~1/8" MDF + veneer) and I expect it to have high impedance to the HF. My main concern was LF vibration, and that's another different issue. To see how it works I should get some accelerometer...
Gastón