Clark answered that one above a while back:
I'm very glad he does; he's better placed than anybody to reintroduce parts of the C&C range should he wish to do so.
I'm very glad he does; he's better placed than anybody to reintroduce parts of the C&C range should he wish to do so.
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From his current website offerings it appears Clarke hasn’t pursued this enclosure topology much; perhaps they didn’t gain traction and he found more success with his compact designs and bespoke work?
I assume so; the downside to the C&C designs was size; likely inconvenient for shipping & certainly costly on the material front.
I don’t know if he bought them but he sure carried on with a similar attitude if not the big horns.
That niche has largely been taken over by the big Woden’s, but you have to diy.
dave
That niche has largely been taken over by the big Woden’s, but you have to diy.
dave
I know the Abby is a commercial product and I think I’m very close to an end speaker and this is Diyaudio ! If I was close to the oval port measurements and proper stuffing above the driver , I’d be very happy , being most of us can’t afford the asking price for a new pair of Abby’s! Did I mention this is Diyaudio and most of the information comes up FOBIDDEN!!!
You can still buy Abby?
An ML-V for FF165wk (or FE166) is doable if not already done. And there are many ML-V for other drivers. The Woden Festival Series (some cost, some free) are an example of designs pre-saged by Abby.
Abby BTW is a guessed speaker, and one can do better by starting with a well-done sim.
dave
An ML-V for FF165wk (or FE166) is doable if not already done. And there are many ML-V for other drivers. The Woden Festival Series (some cost, some free) are an example of designs pre-saged by Abby.
Abby BTW is a guessed speaker, and one can do better by starting with a well-done sim.
dave
Without my notes, all I remember was that it was one of many variations me n' others did, just done up in a fabulous finish about the time 'we' were discussing adding the driver sub baffles to help with BSC; the oval vent was just a cosmetic tweak.
edit: Should have reread the thread, it's apparently all here.
edit: Should have reread the thread, it's apparently all here.
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Yes, if the Abby was still a current commercial product, I would have expected Clark to have piped in 🙄 on the subject by now.
In advanced mode there’s a paper clip icon that engages the attachment process. Best if the images are not from an external hosted link.
FYI/FWIW, to keep 'us' 'legal', a FE166esr generic 60" i.d. axial length, 50 Hz ML-V with minimal stuffing and 8 ohm series resistance for max flat 50 Hz tuning [Fb/p]:
These are my clones if someone can look theme over 72 1/4H x 10 1/8 w x 10 1 /8d at bottom…… for reference I have the omega 3xrs as per Scots mention on you tube ! fostex FE 166EN , FE 165 wk ‘s on the way!
Terry was a friend. I miss him.
Jason Flanary who worked with Terry took over, if you will. Lovecraft Designs. I don't believe he does much, if anything, in the way of speakers anymore.
Jason Flanary who worked with Terry took over, if you will. Lovecraft Designs. I don't believe he does much, if anything, in the way of speakers anymore.
Certainly Clark has more current presence in that area, but as noted above, it looks like he didn’t continue with that part of the C&C legacy.
To be honest, where Terry still around, he might well experiment with some of the more recent computer modelled designs. I for one would love to get his take on the Mark Audi9 drivers.
To be honest, where Terry still around, he might well experiment with some of the more recent computer modelled designs. I for one would love to get his take on the Mark Audi9 drivers.
Yes Still waiting for my FF165 WK’s . Tell me what dimensions you need to do a Sim ? First of all it’s 3/4 inch 13 ply , no void birch ply wood through out . outside dimensions are 72 1/4 inches high , 10 1/8 inches wide , and 1 1/2 inches at top down to 10 1/8 inches at bottom . I’m using the slanted side of the cabinet for the driver from bottom of cabinet 38 inches up to center of driver, the donut / super baffle is 14 inches in diameter and also made of 3/4 13 ply birch plywood . The oval port is 7 3/8 inches wide ,a 1 1/2 hole on both ends and 2 1/4 inches in center , which I feel has to be slightly larger. I have a piece of 3/4 ply 14 inches x 16 inches to stablize the box with small spikes that could be larger. The back of the cabinet is screwed together only for mods if needed. I noticed there are 2 thoughts of damping poly fill from top of driver to top of cabinet or just from below driver to top , back and sides of cabinet , any help would be appreciated????????? Thanks