made a start on the plinth for the sp10 yesterday,out with my veneer press to laminate the 25mm panzerholz to the 38mm chipboard, yes i know controversial and im sure the arm chair experts will be crapping their pants but if its good enough for the yamaha gt2000 then im sure it will be fine here.
west expoxy system was use to bond the panzer to the chipboard,normal adhesives are out due to the resin content of the panzerholz.
left in the press overnight and now i have this.
im undecided on the final thickness at the moment,i need to draw it to scale and see .
west expoxy system was use to bond the panzer to the chipboard,normal adhesives are out due to the resin content of the panzerholz.
left in the press overnight and now i have this.
im undecided on the final thickness at the moment,i need to draw it to scale and see .
im not sure yet,im undecided between facing the sides and spraying the plinth black or veneer in ziricote.
Panzerholz doesn't take oil, it just sits on the surface. Veneer is the best choice, top and sides.
Please, Please, Please do not use chip board anywhere on the plinth. It just sucks the life out of the system.
Read this by TNTaudio on 5 different plinths designs, they used a Temaad T/T kit for the tests.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct..._kit2_e.html&usg=AOvVaw13Mi8nIeHQPY4QWoQMYfUR
Below is my plinth design for an SP15, I got great results from using a local wood Rimu & the insert sink cut outs from a local kitchen top manufacturing company. And note I keep my 12'' arm away from the T/T on a separate pod
Cheers
Read this by TNTaudio on 5 different plinths designs, they used a Temaad T/T kit for the tests.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct..._kit2_e.html&usg=AOvVaw13Mi8nIeHQPY4QWoQMYfUR
Below is my plinth design for an SP15, I got great results from using a local wood Rimu & the insert sink cut outs from a local kitchen top manufacturing company. And note I keep my 12'' arm away from the T/T on a separate pod
Cheers
Attachments
I disagree, I made a plinth for Victor TT-71 for a friend that is 2 layers of chipboard 1 layer of marine ply and another layer of chipboard. This TT certainly did not sound dead it was dynamic and had great sound stage, That TT sounded as good as the SP10 plinth I have just made out of marine plywood.
Chipboard has good damping properties if it sucks the life from the music then you need to look elsewhere for the problem.
I have been fortunate to be demonstrated Three SP10 MkII's using the same design of Tonearm, mounted on differing types of Plywood Plinths.
Standard Marine Grade Birch Plywood @ approx' 650Kg m3.
MU25 Birch Plywood @ approx' 800Kg m3.
B25 Panzerholz @ approx' 1400Kg m3.
I have been able to be demonstrated the three Plywood Types, in use within the same system, with the same Cart's mounted, but the TT's during comparison demonstrations have not shared a identical mounting method.
For the enjoy the moment factor during comparison demonstrations, all plinth materials in use, can deliver a performance that is an attractor.
When the system in use, is being subjected to scrutiny and analysis to find where there are differences to be found and which plinth material outperforms another.
Panzerholz has in my experience proven to be the better material choice.
The Birch Plywood and MU25 user, should both be in agreement, there is very little between these two materials when used as a Plinth, each of the users has now adopted P'holz as their choice for a Plinth Material.
My experiences to date are limited to having been demonstrated a Plinth produced from P'holz used naked, with out other materials attached to it.
My experiences in the use of P'holz are also showing that it has a lot to offer when used a lower tier as a Sub Plinth Material.
P'holz is a Brand, but in general there are other 1400Kg m3 Plywood available, which are unlikely to be found assembled without the use of a Phenolic Resin, as this method of assembly enables the product to be used in specific application.
With this in mind it is not easy to identify if the Compression of the Material and Mass, or the use of the Resin is the ingredient that enables the material to show itself, as being an attractive option as a Plinth Material.
As a side, in the past in a different home, a reclaimed Chipboard, was used as a TT Sub Plinth Material which proved to be quite a valuable addition.
I tried 'various densities of Chipboard' over time, the reclaimed material was very dense in compaction and was the favoured material, used in the home of that time.
When using Floor Standing or Stand Mount Cabinet Speakers, I still use a Granite and Chipboard Assembly as a Plinth to seat the Speaker on.
Experimentation with Chipboard, is a worthwhile pursuit .
Standard Marine Grade Birch Plywood @ approx' 650Kg m3.
MU25 Birch Plywood @ approx' 800Kg m3.
B25 Panzerholz @ approx' 1400Kg m3.
I have been able to be demonstrated the three Plywood Types, in use within the same system, with the same Cart's mounted, but the TT's during comparison demonstrations have not shared a identical mounting method.
For the enjoy the moment factor during comparison demonstrations, all plinth materials in use, can deliver a performance that is an attractor.
When the system in use, is being subjected to scrutiny and analysis to find where there are differences to be found and which plinth material outperforms another.
Panzerholz has in my experience proven to be the better material choice.
The Birch Plywood and MU25 user, should both be in agreement, there is very little between these two materials when used as a Plinth, each of the users has now adopted P'holz as their choice for a Plinth Material.
My experiences to date are limited to having been demonstrated a Plinth produced from P'holz used naked, with out other materials attached to it.
My experiences in the use of P'holz are also showing that it has a lot to offer when used a lower tier as a Sub Plinth Material.
P'holz is a Brand, but in general there are other 1400Kg m3 Plywood available, which are unlikely to be found assembled without the use of a Phenolic Resin, as this method of assembly enables the product to be used in specific application.
With this in mind it is not easy to identify if the Compression of the Material and Mass, or the use of the Resin is the ingredient that enables the material to show itself, as being an attractive option as a Plinth Material.
As a side, in the past in a different home, a reclaimed Chipboard, was used as a TT Sub Plinth Material which proved to be quite a valuable addition.
I tried 'various densities of Chipboard' over time, the reclaimed material was very dense in compaction and was the favoured material, used in the home of that time.
When using Floor Standing or Stand Mount Cabinet Speakers, I still use a Granite and Chipboard Assembly as a Plinth to seat the Speaker on.
Experimentation with Chipboard, is a worthwhile pursuit .
well this could be a temporary plinth. my attention has been drawn to bentonite and resin.
at the moment im awating delivery of another AT-1010 arm to try out on my panzer chipboard plinth,im sure the combination will be fine.
at the moment im awating delivery of another AT-1010 arm to try out on my panzer chipboard plinth,im sure the combination will be fine.
Resin / bento makes a great plinth. I made mine smaller than most and I'm now looking at making a Permalli base for a no plinth build.
If down the track you end up building the R/B plinth you should seriously consider separating the motor from the electronics. The improvement is significant. The remote motor removes all of the bits in the SP10 chassis that can vibrate.
If down the track you end up building the R/B plinth you should seriously consider separating the motor from the electronics. The improvement is significant. The remote motor removes all of the bits in the SP10 chassis that can vibrate.
cheers,i've not gone that in depth yet as im undecided which TT i'll end up with,i also own a couple of Sony TTS-8000's.one is standard,the other ive fitted with lignum vitae bearings.
what i have noticed so far is the aluminium body on the sp10 does resonate when tapped,almost as if the pcb's are loose kinda sound.
@warrjon do you have a link for the work involved in removing the motor electronics by any chance?
what i have noticed so far is the aluminium body on the sp10 does resonate when tapped,almost as if the pcb's are loose kinda sound.
@warrjon do you have a link for the work involved in removing the motor electronics by any chance?
I don't think there is comprehensive write up on moving the motor into a separate plinth. It's not difficult. A 12 core umbilical cable is required with 12pin connectors. I removed the connector from the motor and re-installed on another cable for inside the chassis. There are 2 red wires on the motor so just ensure they go to the correct place,
If you do decide to go this way we can guide you through it..
If you do decide to go this way we can guide you through it..