Technics SL-D2 Mods

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FEET:
I ordered the VibraPods Model 2 and will have soon. Can't wait to try these out. Going to put them under the spring feet as suggested.

MAT:
I also bought a 3mm thick cork mat w/ receded center (for label to recede into to keep record flat on cork). However the rubber turntable mat that comes with my SL-D2 is 4mm thick.

I see a 1mm cork mat from Germany for $20 from Ebay, which I suppose I could place underneath the 3mm mat to make things the right height. I wonder how this would affect the sound being to separate pieces vs. one piece. Already spent like $17 on the other mat. So it'd bd $37 total if I bought this 1mm cork mat.

Another option I guess would be some leather / deer skin or whatever mat? Thing is though I'd probably place it on the bottom as I like idea of recess for label to keep things flat. (Maybe this doesn't matter , I'm newb.. maybe overthinking things).

Another thought: I can buy a 12" silicone Microwave Mat for $7 (about 1mm thick) and use that under the 3mm cork mat.

O-RING:

Gonna try the 3 o-ring mod for the S arm to see if it helps.

GUAGE:
Bought Technics Branded Needle Guage Adjustment tool from Amazon. Like $6.29 from RAVISH JAPAN seller.

NEEDLE CLEANER:

SHould I get the Magic Eraser ($5) or the expensive $40 Onzow Zerodust? Perhaps I should also grab the Ortofan $14 stylus brush? Maybe I might need to brush it since it could have some build up over the years since I haven't been using the Magic Eraser or Onzow?

Well that's enough for this post 🙂
 
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SHould I get the Magic Eraser ($5) or the expensive $40 Onzow Zerodust?
Perhaps I should also grab the Ortofan $14 stylus brush? Maybe I might need to brush it
since it could have some build up over the years

The magic eraser is good for heavier build up, and the brush for lighter, before every record use.
Be sure to brush gently, and only from back to front, the way the stylus sees the groove.
Have the arm on the cue bar when brushing, or not locked into the rest, so you can't apply
too much upward force.
 
Be very careful cleaning the stylus. Super easy to break things.

Try a clamp if you are interested, get a weighted one, so it can press dished records flat. Don't worry about hurting the bearing, it appears to be the same one as the SL-1200

Getting the transformer out of the chassis is a big deal, and worth the effort.
 
Be very careful cleaning the stylus. Super easy to break things.

Try a clamp if you are interested, get a weighted one, so it can press dished records flat. Don't worry about hurting the bearing, it appears to be the same one as the SL-1200

Getting the transformer out of the chassis is a big deal, and worth the effort.

So the wires from the external transformer box are carrying AC or DC signal? Do I need to put DC supply external as well?

If I recall correctly running AC over and umbilical was less desireable than DC? (This was back when I was designing my LM3886 chip amp.. was thinking of putting transformer in separate case.)
 
Good question, as you could do it both ways.

Relocating the transformer outboard does two things - removes a source of mechanical movement in the turntable (physical hum) and removes the oscillating magnetic field that can interfere with the cartridge. (Some carts are more susceptiable this than others)

If you want to go a step further, move the bridge and locate that and a capacitor or two in the outboard supply, and that way you have no AC power in the turntable.

Here's what I did to my SL-1200

Technics SL-1200 DC Power Supply
 
I'm too newb / ignorant / clueless to make my own purchase decisions! lol. I always end up wasting money 🙂 You said I needed a bubble level so I saw that weight clamp with one, figure that's what you meant. I have no idea even that is even the ideal material because different materials resonate differently I'd imagine 🙂. Which clamp did you get for your 1200? I'll just get what you got 🙂
 
It presses down on warped records and helps keeps them flat. That's good. It has a bubble level to help setup the TT correctly, that's also good. Both those things will unquestionably contribute to better sound.

But the "sound" of the clamp itself compared to another clamp? Um... I doubt very much that's actually a thing.

😀
 
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If she ever wants to resell just the weight though, 50Hz in the USA doesn't go.
Here's the same thing for 60Hz from a different vendor.
Amazon.com: 60HZ Viborg Audio Silver 280g Record Weight LP Disc Stabilizer Turntable Vinyl Clamp HiFi: Home Audio & Theater


Yes, 60Hz would technical be better, but remember that there still needs to be something to illuminate the strobe marks, and that's another widget that most people don't have.

I do like the clamp you found. No reason not to get it.
 
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