FWIW, there was a design guide associated with the TDA1541A, a copy came up for sale on EBay a few years ago, but, like the PLL design guide, it would seem it has never been available online. There was also an article or two in the Philips house magazine, ELCOMA.
Slightly OT question.
Does using BG NX at the decoupling pins
really improve the sound over MKP caps ?
Thanks
Does using BG NX at the decoupling pins
really improve the sound over MKP caps ?
Thanks
I just changed mine to 220nF PPS, which has made a nice difference, but the most profound change was adding a low-noise reg to the SAA7220 filter.
Lee.
Lee.
Thanks for the reply guys. I'm building mine
with .22uf Wima MKT. Can't get any PP's here.
I like the Wima Black Box but hard to find now.
with .22uf Wima MKT. Can't get any PP's here.
I like the Wima Black Box but hard to find now.
Better replace MSB and the one below with 1uF. Important mod. Rest 220n
Good caps: try Epcos
I don't like (HATE?!) BG N types, rubbisch from the first kind. Overrated stuff/bad sound. Regular BG caps are quite good in PS.
Good caps: try Epcos
I don't like (HATE?!) BG N types, rubbisch from the first kind. Overrated stuff/bad sound. Regular BG caps are quite good in PS.
Hi Tubee,
Thanks for the tip. Epcos not available here.
MSB pin 1 uf ? Does it improve the sound ?
I think Thortsen recommend OS Con at much
higher value. Can't recall I think it was 2.2uf
or 22uf.
Thanks for the tip. Epcos not available here.
MSB pin 1 uf ? Does it improve the sound ?
I think Thortsen recommend OS Con at much
higher value. Can't recall I think it was 2.2uf
or 22uf.
2.2 uF for MSB and 1uF for the one below is fine too. I chose Wima MKS caps, but have some Epcos caps of 1uF to try.
Hi Tubee,
have you tried damping resistors for I2S ot the
leveller suggested in this thread. Am wondering
how effective it is especially the leveller circuit.
BTW am building a parallel unit to be connected straight
from the I2S line from my CD Pro.
Many thanks again tubee
have you tried damping resistors for I2S ot the
leveller suggested in this thread. Am wondering
how effective it is especially the leveller circuit.
BTW am building a parallel unit to be connected straight
from the I2S line from my CD Pro.
Many thanks again tubee
Yes all digital lines supplied with 75 to 100 ohms resistor (smd on pcb track)
A damping resistor before rect. diodes, BYV diodes (faster) and better caps do the trick. All digital chips decoupled with Sanyo Oscon also an upgrade, with a bead from PS +5V
For Analog is Panasonic, regular BG and Philips a good lytic.
Digital Sanyo Oscon
I2S Leveler never tried, but a reclocking on all clock inputs is very nice.
Ecdesigns has done a lot too on reclocking tda1541, see here in diyaudio€
A damping resistor before rect. diodes, BYV diodes (faster) and better caps do the trick. All digital chips decoupled with Sanyo Oscon also an upgrade, with a bead from PS +5V
For Analog is Panasonic, regular BG and Philips a good lytic.
Digital Sanyo Oscon
I2S Leveler never tried, but a reclocking on all clock inputs is very nice.
Ecdesigns has done a lot too on reclocking tda1541, see here in diyaudio€
Hi Tubee,
Thanks for the advice. Is 100 ohm damping
enough ? I see someone in this thread using
1-3K which I think is pretty high. Yes I would
like to try EC's DI4 unfortunatey the new design
uses Toslink which I do not like as I wish to build
a cdp instead of a 2 box affair. If the sound does
not turn out good, I probably to turn to a Ultrananlog
dac which I have a spare board from a sonic frontiers
SFD II dac. Have listen to many dac's but some how
I still feel that the ultra analog dac is doing something
right to the music. I also audition a Zanden but was
not really impress by the sound not very dynamic.
Only sounded real good with simple music with light
tempo.
Many thanks again Tubee.
Thanks for the advice. Is 100 ohm damping
enough ? I see someone in this thread using
1-3K which I think is pretty high. Yes I would
like to try EC's DI4 unfortunatey the new design
uses Toslink which I do not like as I wish to build
a cdp instead of a 2 box affair. If the sound does
not turn out good, I probably to turn to a Ultrananlog
dac which I have a spare board from a sonic frontiers
SFD II dac. Have listen to many dac's but some how
I still feel that the ultra analog dac is doing something
right to the music. I also audition a Zanden but was
not really impress by the sound not very dynamic.
Only sounded real good with simple music with light
tempo.
Many thanks again Tubee.
I can buy a modded CD880 (modded professional, better output stage with transformer styro caps and OP42 as IV and AD845 as output buffer amp.)
Well listened to the well build CD880, and compared the sound with my modded CD304MK2. (PS modded, screening of chips, Kwak clock, dividers to dac and several clock signals to dig filter/decoder, THS**** opamp, dig is here and there decoupled with Sanyo oscon with beads)
Even when the 880 has selected dac and dig filter, the 304 beats it by far!!!
Well listened to the well build CD880, and compared the sound with my modded CD304MK2. (PS modded, screening of chips, Kwak clock, dividers to dac and several clock signals to dig filter/decoder, THS**** opamp, dig is here and there decoupled with Sanyo oscon with beads)
Even when the 880 has selected dac and dig filter, the 304 beats it by far!!!
Sounds like an eringa cd880. 880 only has S1 dac, no selected filter (never heard of selected 7220's).
As for the pcb, indeed those ic's with separte ps for left and right, better caps and relays for deemp and muting. And the dac is powered from the pcb (not shure which voltages).
In a test i've got from HVT 9/1990 they still prefer a stock CD80..
There were two versions, a cd880 and a cd40 (smaller pcb without transformer and 5534 output chips). I have one of those, but it has been transformed to a AD811 pooge5 stage 😀
Price of the modified 880: fl1800,-. Wat moet zoiets nu nog kosten?
As for the pcb, indeed those ic's with separte ps for left and right, better caps and relays for deemp and muting. And the dac is powered from the pcb (not shure which voltages).
In a test i've got from HVT 9/1990 they still prefer a stock CD80..
There were two versions, a cd880 and a cd40 (smaller pcb without transformer and 5534 output chips). I have one of those, but it has been transformed to a AD811 pooge5 stage 😀
Price of the modified 880: fl1800,-. Wat moet zoiets nu nog kosten?
Yes Guido it is an Eringa modded 880.
SAA7220 is a B , not selected but should be better then the A
Any comment how to mod this output stage? I am sure it could sound better then a 304mk2
SAA7220 is a B , not selected but should be better then the A
Any comment how to mod this output stage? I am sure it could sound better then a 304mk2
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The pcb is just the standard philips way of i/v, just with better components (relays, single opamp chips, powersupply etc).
I would look at the i/v part with the op42. AD811 pooge stage is easiest to do. Or some other i/v.
And for the rest, clock, reclocking etc.
i guess you bought it?
I would look at the i/v part with the op42. AD811 pooge stage is easiest to do. Or some other i/v.
And for the rest, clock, reclocking etc.
i guess you bought it?
Not yet but i will, have decided to keep this magnificent piece of work.
Have a tent or a kwak too to build in and all the reclock mods has to be done.
Maybe a decent tube stage?
Have a tent or a kwak too to build in and all the reclock mods has to be done.
Maybe a decent tube stage?
It costs 150 eu.
But when i look at the pcb, my 304 and 640/660 have shielded pcb's. I wonder if the 880 has a gnd shield.
But when i look at the pcb, my 304 and 640/660 have shielded pcb's. I wonder if the 880 has a gnd shield.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.