I have these 3" speakers, some folks report excellent results with nanoTower and reportedly will work well with TABAQ.
I am looking for a bookshelf size for my smallish reading room. May have to supplement with a subwoofer later but I had another TB W3-593SF that were terrific in a fonken variant bookshelf and did not require a sub for my taste. Am interested in vocals and jazz in low to moderate SPL Can audio gurus here look at the attached data sheet and suggest a cabinet?, thanks
I am looking for a bookshelf size for my smallish reading room. May have to supplement with a subwoofer later but I had another TB W3-593SF that were terrific in a fonken variant bookshelf and did not require a sub for my taste. Am interested in vocals and jazz in low to moderate SPL Can audio gurus here look at the attached data sheet and suggest a cabinet?, thanks
I have a set of the w3-881SI myself. I'll follow along. I could use a small bookshelf set for use with a t-amp. Hope someone chimes in with dims and sims.
MK
MK
This might work well.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/124449-desktop-tl-3-driver-real-bass.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/124449-desktop-tl-3-driver-real-bass.html
Bjorn, thanks very much for the attachment. For W3-881SI driver (I see pictured driver is different), I can use exact dimensions including the BSC circuit values?
gychang
FWIW, I worked up this mini-labyrinth some time ago. The ripple in the response indicated above ~300Hz will be overstated in practice; the folding & damping of the labyrinth are quite effective at attenuating the unwanted pipe harmonics. Damping can be juggled to suit, since different materials will have slightly different results. Ditto for amplifier output impedance.
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1/2" thickness plywood?, experimentation with old shag carpet leftover as damping material sound reasonable?
smallish size is attractive for my small room.
gychang
1/2" thickness plywood?, experimentation with old shag carpet leftover as damping material sound reasonable? what is the total depth of the cabinet?
smallish size is attractive for my small room.
gychang
I think the folded Tabaq is pretty compact. Also, this driver has been used in the cornu with success (by Fenris). It is a pretty versatile driver for many types of enclosures. Just have to choose design.
I found the folded plans for the Tabaq.
MK
http://www.coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ%20BOX%20Cabinet%20build.pdf
MK
http://www.coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ%20BOX%20Cabinet%20build.pdf
1/2in is fine. I wouldn't be inclined to try carpet, it's almost certain to overdamp.
Apologies for not making it clearer. Each part of the labyrinth to the rear, behind the 5in deep front part where the driver is located, is 2in deep. The box is internally 10in tall, ergo, 10 - 2 = 8in for the internal baffle lengths.
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5 + 2 + 2 = 9. For total internal depth you will, with the dark inevitability of Greek tragedy, add to that the thickness of the 2 internal baffles that form the labyrinth.
For total external depth you will add to that the thickness of the front and rear baffles. So assuming 1/2in build material is used, you would end up with a total external depth of 11in. With 3/4in build material, it would be 12in. With 1in material it would be 13in. And so on and so forth. The total length of the labyrinth will alter fractionally, but the drivers will exhibit more deviation than that, so I wouldn't worry about it. This box is about providing mild broadband gain & a well controlled impedance load so it's inherently more tolerant of minor deviations than designs with a more tightly defined / narrowly tuned alignment.
For total external depth you will add to that the thickness of the front and rear baffles. So assuming 1/2in build material is used, you would end up with a total external depth of 11in. With 3/4in build material, it would be 12in. With 1in material it would be 13in. And so on and so forth. The total length of the labyrinth will alter fractionally, but the drivers will exhibit more deviation than that, so I wouldn't worry about it. This box is about providing mild broadband gain & a well controlled impedance load so it's inherently more tolerant of minor deviations than designs with a more tightly defined / narrowly tuned alignment.
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thanks for the info. Does this look about right?, will be using 1/2" plywood.
gychang
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No problem. Dimensions look fine, but you've put the driver directly above the terminus, at the end of the labyrinth, instead of in the main driver chamber at the beginning, where it's supposed to be.
eeek!, I don't like to think when I am into my hobby..., any mistakes on this one?
gychang
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😀
Spot on. 🙂
To be clear, the damping in the front part should be on the top, back, bottom and one side-wall. A thinner layer of damping should be applied where indicated in green: on the back and one side of the two labyrinth sections, across the top at the bend, and a couple of pieces on the front of each labyrinth section. Since all damping material behaves in a different way, & it also depends on the thickness of the damping material you can get hold of, this will probably need a bit of trial and error, so I suggest one side is left off to allow convenient access to the interior. Blu-Tak or similar makes a good temporary airtight seal & will avoid the need for screws. Straightforward acoustic wadding should do for the job nicely.
I should stress, this box is not a bass monster (these things are relative of course -we're talking about 3in wideband drivers) -I wasn't aiming for maximum extension, but to provide something closer to a TL in terms of the load presented. If used near a front wall, you should get a reasonably balanced response down to about 80Hz since it does provide some modest broadband gain.
Spot on. 🙂
To be clear, the damping in the front part should be on the top, back, bottom and one side-wall. A thinner layer of damping should be applied where indicated in green: on the back and one side of the two labyrinth sections, across the top at the bend, and a couple of pieces on the front of each labyrinth section. Since all damping material behaves in a different way, & it also depends on the thickness of the damping material you can get hold of, this will probably need a bit of trial and error, so I suggest one side is left off to allow convenient access to the interior. Blu-Tak or similar makes a good temporary airtight seal & will avoid the need for screws. Straightforward acoustic wadding should do for the job nicely.
I should stress, this box is not a bass monster (these things are relative of course -we're talking about 3in wideband drivers) -I wasn't aiming for maximum extension, but to provide something closer to a TL in terms of the load presented. If used near a front wall, you should get a reasonably balanced response down to about 80Hz since it does provide some modest broadband gain.
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