My nice ish meter is a ueidl389b
Commercial electric I never use it's a 20$ home depot cheapie digital ... I have an old analog laying around and I might have a klein in garage but the uei is my only decent meter
Commercial electric I never use it's a 20$ home depot cheapie digital ... I have an old analog laying around and I might have a klein in garage but the uei is my only decent meter
Find the manual for the Commercial electric meter you have and post the link. It can't give worse numbers than the ones you're getting with the UEI.
Uei I had cause I used them for residential service work .... in that line of work as long as voltages are close thats all that matters makes no difference if you have 110 or 120v you in the ballpark your fine and amp clamps for measure breaker capacity is needed and I also use uei for temperature function to use on ac and furnace work
But I think I need a good meter for electronics where a accurate hundredth of a volt measurement is needed ..ill order one today any suggestions? Looking at fluke now
But I think I need a good meter for electronics where a accurate hundredth of a volt measurement is needed ..ill order one today any suggestions? Looking at fluke now
My recommendation, a used Fluke 10, 11 or 12.
It doesn't take an expensive meter. On a budget, many people like the uni-t meters.
It doesn't take an expensive meter. On a budget, many people like the uni-t meters.
That part MUST come from the manufacturer. It has to be programmed, otherwise, all you have is a blank piece of paper (silicon).
Taramps told me it's programmable .... but I promised you I'd get you a part # for mc1 when magnifying scope came and it kind of turned into a personal mission with myself lol I spent hours staring at mc1 from every angle trying to read the markings .. victory is mine!
So I found what I think might have been the missing 5v remote problem I started with ..... I desoldered the smart led board and found a broken trace .....FINGERS CROSSED pic 3 any advice on best way to fix that trace or just cut it back until trace is solid on board expose bare copper and copper and solder wire any tips would be
Attachments
I never doubted you for a second .... the reason I thought it went to pin 15 was due to my inexperience.... I definitely set us back alot of times but I learned alot 2 and have alot more I need 2 learn
It looks like the solder was not hot enough and when the board was lifted, it ripped the trace.
For now, I'd suggest getting the part of the circuit with Q21 and Q22 working before dealing with this. To do that, you'll have to find a way to get reliable voltage readings.
For now, I'd suggest getting the part of the circuit with Q21 and Q22 working before dealing with this. To do that, you'll have to find a way to get reliable voltage readings.
Lol my first thought was great I broke a trace too which I most likely did ... I'm in no hurry I can't fix that trace til kapton arrives Monday...
ill go grab a meter first thing this morning morning from busy beaver ... what could cause those readings ?
ill go grab a meter first thing this morning morning from busy beaver ... what could cause those readings ?
You may want to look into buying some ChipQuik. It helps prevent damaging driver boards when removing them.
I have no clue as to what's causing the readings you were getting.
Why not use the black meter you already have?
I have no clue as to what's causing the readings you were getting.
Why not use the black meter you already have?
That $175 uei meter is a joke .
. I cannot believe it's what causing the weird voltage readings.... all of them are giving those voltages ... I have a feeling I'm our issue again not the meter.
. I cannot believe it's what causing the weird voltage readings.... all of them are giving those voltages ... I have a feeling I'm our issue again not the meter.
I did try that meter ... but I'm more than fine using that one right now ill take voltage readings and post em