tap horn design... new

[nephylum]

i got two image dynamics idmax 12's lying around collecting dust. their pretty efficient and have good xmax. i would like to design a tap horn for these. are they suitable for a tap horn. i know there's plenty of different drivers to go with... i just wanna use these drivers. some one help?



http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/manuals/iDMax/iDMax12D4V3.pdf




IMP 2 / 8ohms Nominal Impedance
Re 3.0/ 6.0 Ohms DC Resistance
Fs 20Hz Resonant frequency
Qes .40 Electrical “Q”
Qms 2.1 Mechanical“Q”
Qts .34 Total “ Q”
Vas 5.81 cuft (165 liters) Equivalent volume
Xmax 24.9mm One way linear
Sd 545 cm2 ConeArea
Spl 93.1dB/88 dB 1w/1mG.P./SPLi
Pwr 1000 Watts RMS POWER
SPECIFICATIONSSUBJECTTOCHANGEORIMPROVEMENTWITHOUTNOTICE
SPEAKER SPECIFICATIONS
Speakerdisplacement0.12cuft.
BOTHVOICECOILSMUSTBE
USEDATALLTIMES
DIMENSIONS
12.50“
8.25“
11.0“
ENCLOSURESPECIFICATIONS
LARGE NORMAL SMALL
SEALED VOLUMESGROSS
PORTEDVOLUMESGROSS
InfiniteBaffle 1.3cu.ft. 1.0cu.ft.
-3dbIncar\Freespace 10Hz\40Hz 10Hz\41hz 14Hz\48hz
2.72 2.55 2.0
PortedFrequency 25hz 28hz 32hz
PortDimensions 4” I.D.X17.5”long
-3dbInCar\Freespace 16hz\26hz 18hz\28hz 20hz\34hz
cu.ft. cu.ft. cu.ft.
4” I.D.X15”long 4” I.D.X15”long

 

[GM]

Sure, assuming the specs are reasonably accurate and you don't mind it being relatively huge with just one driver (311+ L). It will play loud down to 20 Hz though if the Xmax is for real.

GM

 

[jbell]

definitely not the ideal TH candidate... however here's a guess for you.

My assumption was this was for home theater, not in car... so here's an under 300liter 28hz TH that's good xmax wise down to 20hz and 500watts. Room gain should start kicking in where the TH starts falling off to get a nice flat bottom end response. One of these should get you more than THX levels at seating position, a pair should be impressive.

Fold it like a TH spud, make a pair of them the 2nd row riser in your theater.

 

[nephylum]

definitely not the ideal TH candidate... however here's a guess for you.

My assumption was this was for home theater, not in car... so here's an under 300liter 28hz TH that's good xmax wise down to 20hz and 500watts. Room gain should start kicking in where the TH starts falling off to get a nice flat bottom end response. One of these should get you more than THX levels at seating position, a pair should be impressive.

Fold it like a TH spud, make a pair of them the 2nd row riser in your theater.

yes... this is gonna be for home audio. in the car world this sub is highly favored. it get's quite loud and has a very clean bass response. i really appreciate you pulling up those stats with hornspec. for some odd reason i cant figure that program out. im gonna tinker with it a little tonight. does that same program do the box design, blue print/schematics?

in a small ball park... what will one of those subs do spl wise? 120... 130? i really wanna use both of these subs. if i use 2 in the box... the box will be too large?

 

[jbell]

Before getting serious, you need to identify where in the room you want this, and how much space you really have.

A pair of 12" drivers in 300liter cabinets is generally not wife approved the lower 48 states.....

This is just a quick sim (2pi, aka outdoors, 0.5pi, aka in a room corner) to show that 'something' is possible.

 

[c2cthomas]

This is just a quick sim (2pi, aka outdoors, 0.5pi, aka in a room corner) to show that 'something' is possible.

140db!!! Ya better open the windows (and your neighbors WON'T like you for that) - or else those babies will blow 'em out!!!

Not to mention hearing loss!!!

 

[nephylum]

Before getting serious, you need to identify where in the room you want this, and how much space you really have.

A pair of 12" drivers in 300liter cabinets is generally not wife approved the lower 48 states.....

This is just a quick sim (2pi, aka outdoors, 0.5pi, aka in a room corner) to show that 'something' is possible.

is two tap horns built tall and skinny doable? i kinda like the way a tower sub looks. my room is 10(h) X 16(w) X 24(long

 

[bjorno]

140 dB at Home? Is this another SPL nut thread. At what BW?
IMO SQ is totally forgotten in the equations.

FYI: of sane dB SPL comparisons and more:

b

 

[bjorno]

Picture update (revised)

b:

 

[nephylum]

man... my internet was down all weekend. soo... should i go for the dual idmax 12" taphorns?

 

[soho54]

For Home Audio you will want to have the low corner down to at least 20Hz.

With this driver as GM indicated it will take about 300l raw per driver. If you look up the DTS-10, this driver will work in something like that decently enough, if the parameters are correct.

 

[epitaxial]

The best way to learn about horns is to try it. If the driver is not "as suitable", then damping materials will help.

 

[nephylum]

hmmm... i talked with matt @ image dynamics. he said it would be a horrible idea to use the idmax sub in a taphorn, because the sub would never see full excursion and that it would be a waste of time, space, and money. he said a better candidate would be the idq12....


IMP 2/8 ohms Nominal Impedance
Re 1.35 / 5.4 Ohms DC Resistance
Fs 26.241 Hz Resonant frequency
Qes .469 Electrical “Q”
Qms 2.609 Mechanical “Q”
Qts .397 Total “Q”
Vas 2.98 cuft (84.5 liters) Equivalent volume
Xmax 18 mm One way linear
Sd 519.45 cm2 Cone Area
Splo 87.01 dB Sensitivity
Pwr 50/500 Watts POWER Range

 

[tb46]

... a waste ...

Hi nephylum,

The data you provided for the "12's lying around collecting dust (Post #1)" is just about ideal for something like the original Danley DTS-20 tapped horn.

The statement you ascribe to matt @ image dynamics presuposes, that you do not want extra low frequencies; something you would reasonably expect to go for in a home theater environment.

I recommend you get busy in Hornresp, and then get some OSB and build a trial box. You might just surprise yourself and Matt.

Regards,

 

[nephylum]

Hi nephylum,

The data you provided for the "12's lying around collecting dust (Post #1)" is just about ideal for something like the original Danley DTS-20 tapped horn.

The statement you ascribe to matt @ image dynamics presuposes, that you do not want extra low frequencies; something you would reasonably expect to go for in a home theater environment.

I recommend you get busy in Hornresp, and then get some OSB and build a trial box. You might just surprise yourself and Matt.

Regards,

thanx for the info... im soo busy with work and a newborn on the way... it's hard finding time to really study hornresp.

 

[soho54]

hmmm... i talked with matt @ image dynamics. he said it would be a horrible idea to use the idmax sub in a taphorn, because the sub would never see full excursion and that it would be a waste of time, space, and money.

If you are ever regularly seeing full excursion on a driver you need more drivers.

 

[nephylum]

If you are ever regularly seeing full excursion on a driver you need more drivers.

to tell you the truth... i dont think matt @ image dynamics really likes the idmax. whenever someone calls for sub advice he always recommends the idq series. i dont see how the idmax wouldnt work great in a taphorn enclosure. i think two tall skinny tap horns in each corner behind my main speakers would look killer and sound awesome!

how can i design that type of enclosure? also... instead of using a bunch of bracing through-out the enclosure... what about steel threaded rod bracing?

 

[tb46]

Hi nephylum,

Maybe this can help?

Regards,

 

[nephylum]

Hi nephylum,

Maybe this can help?

Regards,

hmmm... i dont speak that language


yeah, im trying to learn. just dont have time to really study that stuff. i know ohm law and basic speaker building techniques

 

[bjorno]

hmmm... i dont speak that language

Until you learn HR , see my observations:
FYI all other DIY members.

b