To clarify, I DID use "Bass Meckaniks" 20-100hz bass tones as well as other treble tone CDs to gauge frequency response with my ears.
>>> There is no BSC at the moment. I'm taking a purist approach by running them post to post. They are BRIGHT. I mitigate that brightness by keeping them close to the wall and listening off axis. I'll wait until I have my 300B or 2A3 SET amp in hand before I design a BSC.
I think they look great! I agree with your decision to run them the way you are before tinkering with them. If you can spread them wide enough apart you may not need any circuit at all! 300B or 2A3 SET, spaced wide plus room conditions (curtains, rugs, etc.) may be a synergistic match... Personally, i don't think the 1808 is bright at all so it may sound different than the 1772 you have.
I think they look great! I agree with your decision to run them the way you are before tinkering with them. If you can spread them wide enough apart you may not need any circuit at all! 300B or 2A3 SET, spaced wide plus room conditions (curtains, rugs, etc.) may be a synergistic match... Personally, i don't think the 1808 is bright at all so it may sound different than the 1772 you have.
I use a EL34 based Cary amp that's rated at 30 watts. I love the amp... and just about anything Cary makes. You can see my latest experiment next to the 1808... totally different sound. The TB is full range for sure! I don't think it needs a tweeter at all but use one crossed very high. It needs bass extension when it's on open baffle like it is but i've heard it in small sealed cabinets and thought it went deeper in the bass than expected. I think a 2 - 3 cubic foot box would be ideal and this driver can be setup all by itself as a true full range driver... i'd imagine the 1772 could be used successfully this way too. The 1772 is rated to go slightly deeper in the bass. If you can't tame the brightness you can always play with a small circuit. It's still a full range driver with all the benefits implied.
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I can tell from your attached image you LOVE Cary!
Awesome system!!! You are one serious audiophile dude.
I'm looking to get started with an SET amp, myself. I haven't found one that I both like AND can afford.
Regards....jim
is that a celestion horn on the top?
@JimOfOakCreek: in that room, with bare breezeblocks and concrete, i should imagine that almost anything would sound bright, or at least 'hard'. some drapes or carpet behind the boxes will help alot, and not cost alot either. i doubt either the drivers or amp are at fault here.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...ang-w8-1772-project-advice-needed-12lta-3.jpg
@Godzilla:is that a celestion horn on top of the larger fullrange box? it looks very similar to the horns i have. can i ask, what do you think of those horns?
@JimOfOakCreek: in that room, with bare breezeblocks and concrete, i should imagine that almost anything would sound bright, or at least 'hard'. some drapes or carpet behind the boxes will help alot, and not cost alot either. i doubt either the drivers or amp are at fault here.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...ang-w8-1772-project-advice-needed-12lta-3.jpg
@Godzilla:is that a celestion horn on top of the larger fullrange box? it looks very similar to the horns i have. can i ask, what do you think of those horns?
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Hi, congratulations on your projects!
I will start soon a project with the same Tang Band driver.
I have a question of using the BSC filter. If I use a DSP system like minidsp.com, I would have the same results than using a BSC filter? Thx!
I will start soon a project with the same Tang Band driver.
I have a question of using the BSC filter. If I use a DSP system like minidsp.com, I would have the same results than using a BSC filter? Thx!
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
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Hi Everyone,
I know I'm resurrecting a thread that has been quiet for four years now, but I found the information here to be very helpful as a starting place for my speaker project since the W8-1772 recently went on sale at PE.
I started with a cabinet that is similar to what Jim provided at the top of the thread - a 40L bass reflex cabinet with a 3"d and 6"long vent. I added about 10-12 ounces of lambs wool and several internal braces to help control resonance. I then experimented with a number of combinations of baffle step circuits (inductor in parallel with a resistor, in series with the driver) and made measurements and listened to a variety of music.
Ultimately, I settled on a 0.56mH inductor in series with a 16R resistor. This provides a gently rising top end, which suits my listening preferences well. A "flat" response graph has always sounded a bit "dull" to me.
Here are the results of my experiments. Each of the first three graphs show the impact of various resistors in parallel with a fixed coil. The next three show the impact of various coils in parallel with various resistors. The last image is the response curve of the one I like best: 0.56mH in parallel with a 16R resistor. All measurements were made from a distance of about 4 feet from the speaker, with the speaker placed up against the wall.
The dip at 125Hz or so is an artifact of the dimensions of the room. If I pulled these away from the wall in a larger room, the dip at 125 disappears, but I get a larger hole in the 30-50Hz region. Overall, these are quite nice sounding speakers and my 5w Pass Labs Amp-Camp-Amp is sufficient to drive these to fairly high output levels. Well worth the money for the drivers!
I know I'm resurrecting a thread that has been quiet for four years now, but I found the information here to be very helpful as a starting place for my speaker project since the W8-1772 recently went on sale at PE.
I started with a cabinet that is similar to what Jim provided at the top of the thread - a 40L bass reflex cabinet with a 3"d and 6"long vent. I added about 10-12 ounces of lambs wool and several internal braces to help control resonance. I then experimented with a number of combinations of baffle step circuits (inductor in parallel with a resistor, in series with the driver) and made measurements and listened to a variety of music.
Ultimately, I settled on a 0.56mH inductor in series with a 16R resistor. This provides a gently rising top end, which suits my listening preferences well. A "flat" response graph has always sounded a bit "dull" to me.
Here are the results of my experiments. Each of the first three graphs show the impact of various resistors in parallel with a fixed coil. The next three show the impact of various coils in parallel with various resistors. The last image is the response curve of the one I like best: 0.56mH in parallel with a 16R resistor. All measurements were made from a distance of about 4 feet from the speaker, with the speaker placed up against the wall.
The dip at 125Hz or so is an artifact of the dimensions of the room. If I pulled these away from the wall in a larger room, the dip at 125 disappears, but I get a larger hole in the 30-50Hz region. Overall, these are quite nice sounding speakers and my 5w Pass Labs Amp-Camp-Amp is sufficient to drive these to fairly high output levels. Well worth the money for the drivers!
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Really enjoyed my 1772's in a MLTL, sounded wonderful with my KT88 se amp! Settled on 4mh-10ohm BSC, nice balance in my room.
Larry
Larry
Nice measurements - thanks for sharing. What sale at PE? Price is $175 same as always. ???
Pass DIY Addict
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They've been 15% off for a few days now - regular price is more like $205 each. Thus, I saved $50 for the pair, got free shipping, and used a $10 off coupon which made them $340 delivered. The $60 I saved bought my cabinet materials and some crossover pieces to play with. Cabinets are still just MDF right now.
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