I want to build some near field monitors and I'd like to repurpose some W5-1138s & PT-6818s I have into a stereo BT 2 way setup
I'm happy with the W5s as pure subs but has anyone used them for mid bass? They're def not super efficient but I'm not bothered about that. They do look pretty flat from 50-1kHz, and the planar tweeter supposedly goes down to 500Hz but I would probably cross the two over in the middle at 750Hz. W/the low volumes I generally play at hopefully that wouldn't fry the tweeters. I would also be pairing the W5 with 8" passive radiators (1 of each per channel). Really don't want to mess with any EQing; just want to do simple passive 12db crossovers with attenuation for the tweeters.
I'm happy with the W5s as pure subs but has anyone used them for mid bass? They're def not super efficient but I'm not bothered about that. They do look pretty flat from 50-1kHz, and the planar tweeter supposedly goes down to 500Hz but I would probably cross the two over in the middle at 750Hz. W/the low volumes I generally play at hopefully that wouldn't fry the tweeters. I would also be pairing the W5 with 8" passive radiators (1 of each per channel). Really don't want to mess with any EQing; just want to do simple passive 12db crossovers with attenuation for the tweeters.
Good morning. I would start off with these cheap crossovers at parts express and work your way up. They had 800hz in 4 ohms at 12 DB. I would also put a L pad on the GRS tweeter because the DB difference is 12DB and the tweeter can over sound or over power the woofer. You might have to build your own crossovers if your not going active. Good luck.
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You won't need two 8-in passive radiators per woofer, you will only need one. In about 9 L with the 1138 and a single 8-in PR you can hit an F3 of 40 hertz. If you put another one in there your FS will go up for the passive radiator and you won't dig as low. The single 8-in can handle the five and a quarter by itself.
As to using it in a 2way, I'd not advise it. The 83dB sensitivity you see on the spec sheet will drop another 6dB due to baffle step losses. This means you are starting with 77dB in the bass range.
I am guessing you mean the 6816 slim, as the 6818 does not exist. It has 90dB in it's midband sensitivity, and will require 13dB padding there. I would not go below 1k in use, as the bump at 700 concerns me. The 1138 has a high Le droop, and has already lost a few dB by there unless the baffle step counteracts it. However, it responds up to 1k thereabouts.
A friend of mine built a set of 3ways with the 1138, and while it was about a half cube in volume, net sensitivity was about 75dB after making them flat with insertion losses included.
By all means don't let me stop you, but this is starting with a hampered set of criteria.
As to using it in a 2way, I'd not advise it. The 83dB sensitivity you see on the spec sheet will drop another 6dB due to baffle step losses. This means you are starting with 77dB in the bass range.
I am guessing you mean the 6816 slim, as the 6818 does not exist. It has 90dB in it's midband sensitivity, and will require 13dB padding there. I would not go below 1k in use, as the bump at 700 concerns me. The 1138 has a high Le droop, and has already lost a few dB by there unless the baffle step counteracts it. However, it responds up to 1k thereabouts.
A friend of mine built a set of 3ways with the 1138, and while it was about a half cube in volume, net sensitivity was about 75dB after making them flat with insertion losses included.
By all means don't let me stop you, but this is starting with a hampered set of criteria.
Thanks, that was very insightful.
I also have a set of CX-120s and built crossovers for them from the PE Express kit. So I could just get another W5 and do a "3 way", but I just wanted to see about using the planar driver. I was only gonna use 1 PR per channel just like in the PE kit. Prob the right way to go
I also have a set of CX-120s and built crossovers for them from the PE Express kit. So I could just get another W5 and do a "3 way", but I just wanted to see about using the planar driver. I was only gonna use 1 PR per channel just like in the PE kit. Prob the right way to go
Well now I am thinking about trying different subwoofer drivers. I still want something small (8" or smaller) but I'd like more sensitivity and LFE if I can have it. How does this look for a replacement?
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DCS165-4-6-1-2-Classic-Subwoofer-4-Ohm-295-198
Sensitivity is only up maybe 3dB over the frequencies I'd be using it at, but hey, cutting power consumption by half isn't a bad deal. And at the low volumes I tend to play at I feel like I could still get away with 1 8" PR.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DCS165-4-6-1-2-Classic-Subwoofer-4-Ohm-295-198
Sensitivity is only up maybe 3dB over the frequencies I'd be using it at, but hey, cutting power consumption by half isn't a bad deal. And at the low volumes I tend to play at I feel like I could still get away with 1 8" PR.
For that matter, it's the same motor that is on the 8-in and they stuck it on the six and a half.
Spec sheets say 110mm dia magnet for the 165 and 120mm magnet for the 205, so not quite identical.
I'm actually thinking of going in a completely different direction, but I didn't want to spam the board with another question.
I am going to ditch the W5 entirely and try a little open baffle setup. Going to use my CX-120s with the crossovers I already made in combo with GW-212/4s on 2 18x18" baffles. Basta! says that will get to a similar F3 more efficiently. It will be cheaper, easier to build and maybe even more portable too.
