T-TQWT For a Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF

I put all my audio gear away a couple years ago after my daughter was born... I'm pulling some of it back out now to put together a mono system in my pottery studio. Right now I've got a 300 hz leCleach horn, with a sealed 18 sound mb700 below it. It sounds great, however it all starts to roll off around 100hz. I'm on a tight budget. So in my basement I have a pair of Dayton audio RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF. I also have a pair of eminence delta 12lfs. Obviously the eminence drivers would be more efficient which might be better match to my mains which run around 100db efficiency.

However I'm tempted to use the daytons as I would love to have bass that reached down close to 20hz.

A long time back Bjorno designed some T-TQWT for the Dayton audio RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF. I'll attach the his work below. It's been a long time since I've worked with horn response, but I was hoping to build a subwoofer using two Dayton 10hf driver in an opposed configuration to reduce vibration. I have a full wood shop, and my wife and daughter are headed out of town for the weekend, so I was hoping I might be able to knock them out this weekend.

Could anyone help me get a starting point for designing these? There are quite a few places I could tuck this.... I don't think size will be an issue. Any help getting me started would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Depending on your SPL requirements, you might find you can boost the low bass going to the 18Sound driver. Much quicker, cheaper, and easier than building another box.

That said, Bjorno's work looks solid as always. There are areas noted for the open and closed ends, and the internal width. Looks like it'd be a 7 panel project for a single-fold design.

Chris
 
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The 18 sound driver is a 100db 1W/1m in a small sealed enclosure. I do have it crossed over with a minidsp, but it would take a huge amount of eq just to make it to 40hz, much less 20hz.

Certainly Bjorno did a great job and already has it drawn up for a single driver, single fold version. I was just wondering about a dual driver version with the drivers opposed to reduce vibration. I feel like that should be possible, but I have trouble imagining what it would look like.

Maybe just two single versions built mirror image so they could be opposed. Built as a single box? I guess I had been thinking about having the drivers right next to each other, but simply building two single driver versions as a single box could do it.
 
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You could do that, but simply putting the drivers back to back on the side panels between the divider board and end panels is all that's required and of course double the SO, SL areas and if the width x depth dims are too small to fit the drivers, then scale SO, SL to fit, so do a scale drawing to make sure before 'burning' wood.

GM
 
The 18 sound driver is a 100db 1W/1m in a small sealed enclosure. I do have it crossed over with a minidsp, but it would take a huge amount of eq just to make it to 40hz, much less 20hz.

All EQ does is use up headroom. If you happen to have lots available, it's okay to use it!
That said, asking a 12" midbass to go down to 20Hz would be asking a lot at anything above low levels. YMMV, but I'd give it a try if the MiniDSP is easily changed.

Chris
 
All EQ does is use up headroom. If you happen to have lots available, it's okay to use it!
That said, asking a 12" midbass to go down to 20Hz would be asking a lot at anything above low levels. YMMV, but I'd give it a try if the MiniDSP is easily changed.

Chris

I don't want to lose the ability to listen at higher volumes. The driver starts to naturally roll off at 120hz at 12db/octave so by the time you get to even 40hz that's a lot of eq. I've already got some eq on it to keep it flat to a little under 100hz. I would also start to run out of excursion.
 
You could do that, but simply putting the drivers back to back on the side panels between the divider board and end panels is all that's required and of course double the SO, SL areas and if the width x depth dims are too small to fit the drivers, then scale SO, SL to fit, so do a scale drawing to make sure before 'burning' wood.

GM

I read this right after you posted it, and still can't wrap my head around how this would look. If they are back to back, how are the front wave and back wave of the drivers directed? Are they in a sort of W-frame arrangement? Sorry to be dense...
 
Alright this looks to be the best I could come up with. I didn't know how to indicate it in the drawing, but there are no side after the center divider ends. Making for holes on both sides ~4"x 3 11/16" .

I think this is faithful to Bjorno's design. Does anyone mind taking a look? Sorry I have no skills in sketchup or any kind of CAD program.
 

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Well, I didn't end up with the free weekend I thought I would. It's also possible I underestimated how long these would take 😱 . I got them started though... I'm only finding a little bit of time in the evenings though so it might be a while yet...
 

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Making progress slowly but surely. All the panels are pocket screws and titebond 3, braces are brad nailed and titebond3. I'm going to try pl premium on the last side since, as I hear that is the best thing for making sure the are no air leaks. I should be able to glue that on tomorrow evening. Anyone have any advice on how much clamping pressure I need? I've never used pl premium before. I've got plenty of clamps, I just don't know if overclamping could be on issue with pl premium...
 
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Definitely a pass, plenty of bass, and it sounds great. I have some room modes that I would like to deal with. I have it equalized so it sound decent where I usually am in the room, but the sound changes dramatically depending on where you are in the room. Might be some small subs in my future to help me deal with the room modes. The T-TQWT is great though.
 
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