This is one of the major reasons why you ( and many others ) are are involved in DIY projects.
I have a CD67-II which has upgraded opamps now. First OPA2134 and now AD826. It sounds far better than the stock machine which was 'very' poor.
I am collecting components for a clock upgrade- thanks to Elso. Meantime Iwill upgrade the power supply and use a tubed buffer stage. I like the natural midrange that I get from tubes. The good opamps are not far behind. The opamp buffers seem to be slightly better in the bass ( deeper bass) .
Any idea if LaKozy has the Audience 42 ? Have you heard that?
Cheers.
Navin, Ashok...
i agree...cent percent...!
In fact i was doing this all the while....i've been doing Amps and the works since 10th grade...(dint know what it was then...just used to get the components put them together and thats it....) and there was absolutely no input from the net...all based on the basic datasheet app circuits....Then it got a bit more serious in college....once i learned the basics ...started experimenting with things and off late i realised that all the time i was doing one kind of gainclone or the other...but using the TDA2040's and 50's..Then a brief stint with 1514...but soon reverted to the TDA20xx...(i felt something wrong with the 1514 although the datasheets showed a perfect flat response...cudnt figure out if it was an implementation problem or not...was too hesitant to modify the app circuit as i dint understand it fully and replacements were hard to come by...any more inputs on these..?).. but the real issue is what do i compare the sound with....? i ve read that its very difficult to judge performance without a fast comparison...It seems that our auditiry system has a short memory and it tries to adapt to the sound so much so that it becomes difficult to judge equipment effectively if the pauses are really long even a few minutes...!!and i've felt the same....then its all downto what sounds good to your own ears....yes these experiments used to last entire nights....(no matter what, it never sounded good to any of my neighbours and their dog...
)
i agree...cent percent...!
In fact i was doing this all the while....i've been doing Amps and the works since 10th grade...(dint know what it was then...just used to get the components put them together and thats it....) and there was absolutely no input from the net...all based on the basic datasheet app circuits....Then it got a bit more serious in college....once i learned the basics ...started experimenting with things and off late i realised that all the time i was doing one kind of gainclone or the other...but using the TDA2040's and 50's..Then a brief stint with 1514...but soon reverted to the TDA20xx...(i felt something wrong with the 1514 although the datasheets showed a perfect flat response...cudnt figure out if it was an implementation problem or not...was too hesitant to modify the app circuit as i dint understand it fully and replacements were hard to come by...any more inputs on these..?).. but the real issue is what do i compare the sound with....? i ve read that its very difficult to judge performance without a fast comparison...It seems that our auditiry system has a short memory and it tries to adapt to the sound so much so that it becomes difficult to judge equipment effectively if the pauses are really long even a few minutes...!!and i've felt the same....then its all downto what sounds good to your own ears....yes these experiments used to last entire nights....(no matter what, it never sounded good to any of my neighbours and their dog...
)Ok...
now all that i've here is a sony discman as the sole source...
hv to run it on cells all the time...
(I wudnt meddle with it as i carry it where ever i go...and that's strictly what it is supposed to do...)
So now then, since i've started earning, was thinking of getting something decent to spin those discs....and cheap to experiment with (plus more)....so i was eying the marantz cd4000 unit ...thot it wud be cheap and not that bad at performance...+ i cud do some experiments as well...(heard 6000's are better ...but cost double as much)
Ok now about second hand units....can u guide me to some reliable sources...pointers atleast...! i'll start of with them then...!
what models shud i look out for...!!
now all that i've here is a sony discman as the sole source...
hv to run it on cells all the time...
(I wudnt meddle with it as i carry it where ever i go...and that's strictly what it is supposed to do...
)So now then, since i've started earning, was thinking of getting something decent to spin those discs....and cheap to experiment with (plus more)....so i was eying the marantz cd4000 unit ...thot it wud be cheap and not that bad at performance...+ i cud do some experiments as well...(heard 6000's are better ...but cost double as much
)Ok now about second hand units....can u guide me to some reliable sources...pointers atleast...! i'll start of with them then...!
what models shud i look out for...!!
i built my first amp in the 4th std. it was a kit from ETI (Eelctronics Today International). My First speaker the next summer usng Philips 8" 5" and 1".
My dad used to encourage me a lot. I built my first tape deck in my 8th std. by the time i went to jr. college (11th grade) I had a "double 12s" 4 way active speaker system. Again all Philips. Amps were for Elektor. I did wierd things like try and marry a 2" dome mid with a 5" cone mid over the same freq range.
As Archie Bunker says "Those were the days".
My dad used to encourage me a lot. I built my first tape deck in my 8th std. by the time i went to jr. college (11th grade) I had a "double 12s" 4 way active speaker system. Again all Philips. Amps were for Elektor. I did wierd things like try and marry a 2" dome mid with a 5" cone mid over the same freq range.
As Archie Bunker says "Those were the days".
Vivek said:
Hi vivek.
I take the liberty of ans. Hope navin does'nt mind it too much.
1. Power Cable: I really dont know, but shielded cable must do a bit of good.
3. Damping: I use my copy of Holy Bible ( whaked from some hotel room) to good effect.
4. Feet: Tennis ball half should be fine. Get the yellow ones- they look cool. To isolate my Turntable, I use a 3" thick foam pressed down with a heavy granite slab.
cheers
Vivek said:
Now we are seriously wading in Navin territory. Let me enjoy a moment of glory while he is off-line.
Does this Dainty come with T/S specs? Building a sub otherwise will be difficult. If you have the tools then finding T/S specs is reasonable easy. Try this link.
BOLTON was good in its day. I think the old man who was running the show is no more actively involved. I would be suspecting any Bolton that you can lay your hands on today. There are far many clones. Navin will be best to comment on this
Look!! what the cat dragged home!
This thread is now seriously off topic. I suspect the thread starter will not be amused. I also hope that navin's pal Dave doesn’t visit us
Now that we are merrily meandering all over, allow me to post a pic of what I came across earlier this week in our maintenance stores. A 5 KVA UPS!. I can see things for a SOZ project in this. If not SOZ then at least a JLH Class A. Or several Gainclones. It's got 2 huge heatsink. 2 huge transformers 750VA and 350VA respectively. And other assorted stuff.
You really find most useful things in those dusty dungeons
This thread is now seriously off topic. I suspect the thread starter will not be amused. I also hope that navin's pal Dave doesn’t visit us
Now that we are merrily meandering all over, allow me to post a pic of what I came across earlier this week in our maintenance stores. A 5 KVA UPS!. I can see things for a SOZ project in this. If not SOZ then at least a JLH Class A. Or several Gainclones. It's got 2 huge heatsink. 2 huge transformers 750VA and 350VA respectively. And other assorted stuff.
You really find most useful things in those dusty dungeons
Attachments
hey guys it's the week end dont you guys rest? anyway the best i know Dainty was made in Palghar by a company called Dhwani Audio. their good stuff was some 10 and 12" ribber paper cone woofers. stamped basket (not too good). I used a set of these during my 1989-90 sojourn in India. The Qts of most of theis stuff was in the 0.4 range which meant sealed or aperiod boxes.
I used 2 12" and 1 10" wired in parallel (2.8 ohms nomial) driven by a 60+60W rms amp bridged XOed at 80Hz. I seem to remember my friends complaining that they could hear them selves think with that system top end was provided by an Altrec ALA 435 (4x35W rms) driving Polk Audio 5" 3 way in the front and 6" 3 way in the rear.
to damp cd player the granite slab can do just put a sheet of rubber below it Shore hardness 40-60 aqny softer and you mgiht have bounce any harder and the rubbe might offer enough absorbtion.
I use 3mm lead sheet you can buy this in 3 feet width. i got 3x4 ft for about Rs 45 per kg. at 40kg this is about rs 2000.
my mom in law built me a cover from black chennile cloth so that my son dont touch the lead by accident
power cord. Yes a 3 wire cord is much better. I use something similar. remember the place where almost all electronic manufacters skimp is in power supply it costs the most. so the best way is to beef up all power supply components. I use MIL grade voltage regulators. over engineering works wonder to silicon based electronics.
I used 2 12" and 1 10" wired in parallel (2.8 ohms nomial) driven by a 60+60W rms amp bridged XOed at 80Hz. I seem to remember my friends complaining that they could hear them selves think with that system top end was provided by an Altrec ALA 435 (4x35W rms) driving Polk Audio 5" 3 way in the front and 6" 3 way in the rear.
to damp cd player the granite slab can do just put a sheet of rubber below it Shore hardness 40-60 aqny softer and you mgiht have bounce any harder and the rubbe might offer enough absorbtion.
I use 3mm lead sheet you can buy this in 3 feet width. i got 3x4 ft for about Rs 45 per kg. at 40kg this is about rs 2000.
my mom in law built me a cover from black chennile cloth so that my son dont touch the lead by accident
power cord. Yes a 3 wire cord is much better. I use something similar. remember the place where almost all electronic manufacters skimp is in power supply it costs the most. so the best way is to beef up all power supply components. I use MIL grade voltage regulators. over engineering works wonder to silicon based electronics.
Sub's
Hi Vivek,
Why don't you try the new Boltons or the 10 inch Peerless
(India) . Peerless apparently have a 12 inch also but I am not sure if you can get that. It may be wise not to pick a driver unless you can see its T/S specs and determine the box size that it would need. Many (older) Indian drivers needed large boxes to work properly. Space is always at a premium.
Navin might be able to throw some light on the Peerless drivers.
I saw some good looking 15 inch subs in Delhi. Some local brand but no specs. It was sold at Rs1800 ( $36/) and I would be afraid to plonk my money down with no idea of what it can do. Apparently all materials are from the Far East.
Visit the Chandni Chowk area ( opposite the Red Fort ) to see the most incredible range of local speakers - most will be junk of course. I wonder when the 'fake' high end drivers will make their appearance!
Cheers.
Hi Vivek,
Why don't you try the new Boltons or the 10 inch Peerless
(India) . Peerless apparently have a 12 inch also but I am not sure if you can get that. It may be wise not to pick a driver unless you can see its T/S specs and determine the box size that it would need. Many (older) Indian drivers needed large boxes to work properly. Space is always at a premium.
Navin might be able to throw some light on the Peerless drivers.
I saw some good looking 15 inch subs in Delhi. Some local brand but no specs. It was sold at Rs1800 ( $36/) and I would be afraid to plonk my money down with no idea of what it can do. Apparently all materials are from the Far East.
Visit the Chandni Chowk area ( opposite the Red Fort ) to see the most incredible range of local speakers - most will be junk of course. I wonder when the 'fake' high end drivers will make their appearance!
Cheers.
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