I still have some boards left from the last groupsbuy
Thanks.
Price?
Mono/stereo?
Boards stuffed/empty?
If empty: Estimated parts cost for both channels?
Does stuffed board require only transformer or complete PS?
If transformer only: specs?
If complete PS: Voltage range, minimum wattage?
I prefer SMPS for simplicity and cost savings.
Hi James,
As you know this is a DIY freebie for the forum almost three years back now and Meanman, Patrick, offers these empty pcb for DIYers who are happy to build up the full amp.
If you built the stereo FetZilla, you will pay parts (USD) prices around $300 including two 160VA toroids. There is a comprehensive documentation set at the 'Fetzilla Build Documentation' thread in this Aspen forum at the first post of the first page.
Just here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/aksa/207772-fetzilla-build-documentation.html
While the pcb is easy to make, it is not easy; there are a couple of smd semiconductors to fit, but not too small.
The PS is dual; that is, there is a independent rectifier block and filter caps on EACH rail. Thus, you need only to connect the two 160VA 2x25Vac transformer secondaries wires; DC conversion is on the pcb. An smps is fine, but some say that there are considerable differences of sound quality between difference suppliers; the hypex smps is the best but will cost MORE money than the onboard linear supply.
The rails are 36V, and the output is around 50W into 8R. You will get around 75W into 4R. The amp will drive electrostatic speakers very well.
Cheers,
Hugh
As you know this is a DIY freebie for the forum almost three years back now and Meanman, Patrick, offers these empty pcb for DIYers who are happy to build up the full amp.
If you built the stereo FetZilla, you will pay parts (USD) prices around $300 including two 160VA toroids. There is a comprehensive documentation set at the 'Fetzilla Build Documentation' thread in this Aspen forum at the first post of the first page.
Just here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/aksa/207772-fetzilla-build-documentation.html
While the pcb is easy to make, it is not easy; there are a couple of smd semiconductors to fit, but not too small.
The PS is dual; that is, there is a independent rectifier block and filter caps on EACH rail. Thus, you need only to connect the two 160VA 2x25Vac transformer secondaries wires; DC conversion is on the pcb. An smps is fine, but some say that there are considerable differences of sound quality between difference suppliers; the hypex smps is the best but will cost MORE money than the onboard linear supply.
The rails are 36V, and the output is around 50W into 8R. You will get around 75W into 4R. The amp will drive electrostatic speakers very well.
Cheers,
Hugh
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Thanks, Hugh.
25W@16R SS is too close to the gray zone...I did not need too much of a push to lean back toward the AKSA 80, which I presume makes 40W @ 16R, only 1 dB less than the known quantity of 50W into the same load.
25W@16R SS is too close to the gray zone...I did not need too much of a push to lean back toward the AKSA 80, which I presume makes 40W @ 16R, only 1 dB less than the known quantity of 50W into the same load.
Hi,
Can a pair of the fetzilla be wired to a single transformer or SMPS ? Any dumming issue ?
Thanks
Can a pair of the fetzilla be wired to a single transformer or SMPS ? Any dumming issue ?
Thanks
Hi,
Can a pair of the fetzilla be wired to a single transformer or SMPS ? Any dumming issue ?
Thanks
No problem
Yes, Syklab, but there is ONE significant issue.
If you use ONE transformer for BOTH channels, you need:
1. Two secondary windings, EACH of two wires, four (4) wires in total
2. ONE secondary, say #1 secondary, must be connected identically on the modules to the positive supply of L channel, and the same wires, paralleled, to the positive supply of the R channel.
3. THE OTHER secondary, say #2 secondary, must be connected identical on the modules to the negative supply of the L channel, and the same wires, paralleled, to the negative positive of the R channel.
If you do this wrong, you will blow up one of the rectifiers on each module, and a pair of the 0.15R power supply resistors under the pcb.
BTW, the single toroid you use for both channel should be rated to 300VA.
The idea of using two 160VA toroids is to build an amp with completely independent power supplies left and right. This is dual monobloc design, and it ensures that there is no channel crosstalk and a slightly improved depth of image.
Cheers,
Hugh
If you use ONE transformer for BOTH channels, you need:
1. Two secondary windings, EACH of two wires, four (4) wires in total
2. ONE secondary, say #1 secondary, must be connected identically on the modules to the positive supply of L channel, and the same wires, paralleled, to the positive supply of the R channel.
3. THE OTHER secondary, say #2 secondary, must be connected identical on the modules to the negative supply of the L channel, and the same wires, paralleled, to the negative positive of the R channel.
If you do this wrong, you will blow up one of the rectifiers on each module, and a pair of the 0.15R power supply resistors under the pcb.
BTW, the single toroid you use for both channel should be rated to 300VA.
The idea of using two 160VA toroids is to build an amp with completely independent power supplies left and right. This is dual monobloc design, and it ensures that there is no channel crosstalk and a slightly improved depth of image.
Cheers,
Hugh
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Hi Hugh,
Totally understood, Just that I bought one 300VA 2x25VAC transformer instead of 2 x 160VA 2x25VAC. May have to buy a new pair for that.
Thanks
Totally understood, Just that I bought one 300VA 2x25VAC transformer instead of 2 x 160VA 2x25VAC. May have to buy a new pair for that.
Thanks
I've finally build two of my four boards aswell. Still waiting on the 1uF M-cap Supreme's I want to use on them, then they are ready to set the bias and be build into an enclosure.
Two questions though:
I was wondering, do I need to either place the caps at C5 and C6 ór place the resistor at PL. or can i leave them both out?
And secondly, I made the induction coil out of 27 windings of 0,8mm wire instead fo the 0,9mm (I couldn't find anny 0,9mm where I live, so subtituted for what i had on hand). I take it this won't pose to be a problem?
A pic of the boards, almost ready to be put in the enclosure.
Two questions though:
I was wondering, do I need to either place the caps at C5 and C6 ór place the resistor at PL. or can i leave them both out?
And secondly, I made the induction coil out of 27 windings of 0,8mm wire instead fo the 0,9mm (I couldn't find anny 0,9mm where I live, so subtituted for what i had on hand). I take it this won't pose to be a problem?
A pic of the boards, almost ready to be put in the enclosure.
Attachments
You can leave them out but you can solder a 100K resistor at PL gives a bit better resolution.C5-6 is only for difficult speakers.
Yes, Eric, this will do it very nicely........ what you are doing with a 100k across the PL pads is introducing nested feedback, and by this you are REDUCING the global feedback. This has advantages for this amp, namely in more resolution, but also, better imaging.
Thanks Patrick!! I appreciate your kind help to me and Eric and your technical skill!
Groetjes,
Hugh
Thanks Patrick!! I appreciate your kind help to me and Eric and your technical skill!
Groetjes,
Hugh
My Fetzilla still running as our main amp, 3 years or so on - driving Kef LS50 speakers. It's a nice match actually - plenty of punch. Still has to be the most rewarding DIY amp I've built.
Ah, this is a good amp, not huge resolution but a wonderful, warm sound very suited to entertainment systems. Might consider it for my TV too Andrew!
Hugh
Hugh
I might (when money permits) buy a new Naksa in a few months. Sounds very promising the new one.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Does anyone have a set of boards from the group buy that they want to sell?
I missed the group buy as usual.
I missed the group buy as usual.
I support EKID's request; he is a great guy, lives in Singapore.
He would be a great home for two FetZilla pcbs, stuffed OR unstuffed.
Cheers,
Hugh
He would be a great home for two FetZilla pcbs, stuffed OR unstuffed.
Cheers,
Hugh
Hi! I have an unpopulated set that I would be willing to let go of. PM me please.Does anyone have a set of boards from the group buy that they want to sell?
I missed the group buy as usual.
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