Scotmoose, I want to build a half chang with a Coral unit. Designing the normal BR or MLTL for it is easy. But I'm stumped by the process of replacing the normal port with the flare, and displaying that in the MJK sheets.
Can you elucidate further please. Thanks
Can you elucidate further please. Thanks
Scottmoose said:It's a reflex slot-vent with massive end correction applied. Makes a useful stand & waveguide too.
Yes, a version for the B20 is possible. Just take the Chang cabinet, remove the upper vent, and double the depth of the slot-vent firing into the lower flare. If you feel like it, raise the driver so it's centre is 190mm down from the internal top. Remember to brace the reflex cabinet or you'll have vibration issues with the larger boxes.
And exactly the same enclosure would work with a FE207E? 🙄
Martin
Design a BR or MLTL for it with a slot vent (same CSA and length as a round vent, as you know). Then apply a flare to the end of said port. Best sheet to use is the BLH sections, though in a sense, it's not too critical. Have a play -you'll soon find out which things make the most effect.
larkinrulez said:And exactly the same enclosure would work with a FE207E? 🙄
Yes. It will.
Suzy Chang with Tang Band W4-1320?
Scott/Dave,
Will the Tang Band W4-1320 work in the Suzy Chang design with minimal modifications? To my ignorant eye the parameters of the 1320 look very similar to the original Fe107e.
W4-1320 specs here -> http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/264-846s.pdf
Many thanks!
Steve
Scott/Dave,
Will the Tang Band W4-1320 work in the Suzy Chang design with minimal modifications? To my ignorant eye the parameters of the 1320 look very similar to the original Fe107e.
W4-1320 specs here -> http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/264-846s.pdf
Many thanks!
Steve
New Chang Design Ideas
Here are my initial sketches for my Suzy Changs. The design fits my needs right now of a relatively simple, small floor-standing speaker using an efficient, affordable driver. Ignore the colours (I may go for the De Stijl look..), my question is will I mess things up drastically if I mount the driver from behind the baffle as shown, for a smarter look?
Here are my initial sketches for my Suzy Changs. The design fits my needs right now of a relatively simple, small floor-standing speaker using an efficient, affordable driver. Ignore the colours (I may go for the De Stijl look..), my question is will I mess things up drastically if I mount the driver from behind the baffle as shown, for a smarter look?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Re: New Chang Design Ideas
If that blue section is a removable front baffle, then *I* wouldn't worry to much about it. However, if it's not, then I would not do it.
Someone who learned the hard way.
Tom.
Ropie said:... my question is will I mess things up drastically if I mount the driver from behind the baffle as shown, for a smarter look?
If that blue section is a removable front baffle, then *I* wouldn't worry to much about it. However, if it's not, then I would not do it.
Someone who learned the hard way.
Tom.
Re: New Chang Design Ideas
Other than reducing cabinet rigidity by having a removable panel, no. I'd build as is, then cut away a largish hole and then with driver mounted from the rear affix a 2nd baffle.
The 103/107's front bezel will make it a bit tricky to get a clean mount from the rear.
dave
Ropie said:my question is will I mess things up drastically if I mount the driver from behind the baffle as shown, for a smarter look?
Other than reducing cabinet rigidity by having a removable panel, no. I'd build as is, then cut away a largish hole and then with driver mounted from the rear affix a 2nd baffle.
The 103/107's front bezel will make it a bit tricky to get a clean mount from the rear.
dave
Re: Re: New Chang Design Ideas
Thanks for the input both 🙂
I was going to have a small removable panel at the rear for access.renfrow said:If that blue section is a removable front baffle, then *I* wouldn't worry to much about it.
Dave, you mean fix the speaker to the rear of a second (removable) front panel, like a sandwich? This could be a good idea!planet10 said:I'd build as is, then cut away a largish hole and then with driver mounted from the rear affix a 2nd baffle.
Thanks for the input both 🙂
May I ask, why is there a need to install a series resistor
for the Fe206 when used with the Half Chang cabinets ?
Thanks
for the Fe206 when used with the Half Chang cabinets ?
Thanks
Re: Re: Re: New Chang Design Ideas
Essentially, you end up with a recessed perimeter ledge to which you front mount the driver mounting plate.
As Dave mentioned, the major issue with rear mounting the Fostex drivers would be the plastic ring at the edge of the surround, and the conflict between the need to bevel the inside of the driver opening to mitigate diffraction effects and the placement of mounting hardware.
If you could fabricate the driver mounting plate from 3-4mm aluminum, with a slight chamfer or radius, I'd imagine the diffraction would be less of an issue.
Ropie said:
I was going to have a small removable panel at the rear for access.
Dave, you mean fix the speaker to the rear of a second (removable) front panel, like a sandwich? This could be a good idea!
Thanks for the input both 🙂
Essentially, you end up with a recessed perimeter ledge to which you front mount the driver mounting plate.
As Dave mentioned, the major issue with rear mounting the Fostex drivers would be the plastic ring at the edge of the surround, and the conflict between the need to bevel the inside of the driver opening to mitigate diffraction effects and the placement of mounting hardware.
If you could fabricate the driver mounting plate from 3-4mm aluminum, with a slight chamfer or radius, I'd imagine the diffraction would be less of an issue.
Re: Re: Re: Re: New Chang Design Ideas
Thanks for clarifying, Chris. I think some sort of clamp to squeeze the driver against the back of the baffle would work best, rather than using the screw holes in the surround then. It will hopefully all start to become clear to me when I receive the drivers in a few days..
chrisb said:As Dave mentioned, the major issue with rear mounting the Fostex drivers would be the plastic ring at the edge of the surround, and the conflict between the need to bevel the inside of the driver opening to mitigate diffraction effects and the placement of mounting hardware.
Thanks for clarifying, Chris. I think some sort of clamp to squeeze the driver against the back of the baffle would work best, rather than using the screw holes in the surround then. It will hopefully all start to become clear to me when I receive the drivers in a few days..
JC951t said:May I ask, why is there a need to install a series resistor
for the Fe206 when used with the Half Chang cabinets ?
Hi JC, the FE206E has a huge magnet, resulting in a low Qts, thus weak bass -- until you compensate for it. The typical way to compensate is to design a cab that "amplifies" the bass (e.g. a horn).
But you can get there another way -- simply raise the Qts to be closer to the FE207E. GM shows the formulas in action here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=421182#post421182
notch for Pioneer 4-1/2" ?
Hi guys! I'm after some pointers.
What do you use to Notch Filter http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-010&vReviewShow=1&vReviewRand=9061659
Or does it only need a BSC, if anything?
Thanks!!
Hi guys! I'm after some pointers.
What do you use to Notch Filter http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-010&vReviewShow=1&vReviewRand=9061659
Or does it only need a BSC, if anything?
Thanks!!
Oh, sorry guys. I found a potential answer to my question here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=420954#post420954
Will "something like that" do?
Will "something like that" do?
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