I like it. Simple, classic looking mini amp. Perfect for a desk or bedroom.
I especially like the backlit volume knob. I tried that before on a design that never quite made it to completion. Looks good.
On my next amp, I'm planning to use 3 colour led's in the same manner to indicate either volume level or state.. ie standby, off or on, or perhaps as a clippping indicator
I especially like the backlit volume knob. I tried that before on a design that never quite made it to completion. Looks good.
On my next amp, I'm planning to use 3 colour led's in the same manner to indicate either volume level or state.. ie standby, off or on, or perhaps as a clippping indicator
Thanks,
currently it travels the appartment and makes some acquaintances.
Earlier it talked to the floorstanders in the living room.
Right now it is partying in the study.
But I fear eventually it will have to live in the kitchen.
The LED behind the volume knob is rated at 4500 mcd. Yet in daylight the backlight isn't really overwhelming. I figured if you could machine like an acrylic washer it could be more efficient.
currently it travels the appartment and makes some acquaintances.
Earlier it talked to the floorstanders in the living room.
Right now it is partying in the study.
But I fear eventually it will have to live in the kitchen.
The LED behind the volume knob is rated at 4500 mcd. Yet in daylight the backlight isn't really overwhelming. I figured if you could machine like an acrylic washer it could be more efficient.
Perfect match speakers for T-amp
Hi all. after 2 hours of oldfashioned tinkering i have made a pair of loudspeakers matching the Cheap T-amp like a glove.
Exellent mids ang highs, very fast and very clear accaptable lows, not to deep, because of the 3" drivers, but for a small set, verry nice.
This has been made for 10 euro's..... all new components.
The housing is made of Styrofoam cooling boxes used for food.
These are 0.5 euro each
The drivers are one pair of 3" almoast fullrange speakers that need a little help above 12K that help comes from full range speakers of 1" diameter, housed in a metal can. i used a 6uF 250 V MKP cap to cut the low out for the small one.
the housing is a bassreflex with a bass hole in the back, the styrofoam is relativly hard ( for styrofoam that is...) so i braced it on the inside with cardboard .
All cost me 10 euro and 2 hours time, sound is amazing for this price!!! very suitable for Jazz and any vocal music, and with the T- amp beeing so cheap, a excellent start for anyone who is interested in HIFI.
Hi all. after 2 hours of oldfashioned tinkering i have made a pair of loudspeakers matching the Cheap T-amp like a glove.
Exellent mids ang highs, very fast and very clear accaptable lows, not to deep, because of the 3" drivers, but for a small set, verry nice.
This has been made for 10 euro's..... all new components.
The housing is made of Styrofoam cooling boxes used for food.
These are 0.5 euro each
The drivers are one pair of 3" almoast fullrange speakers that need a little help above 12K that help comes from full range speakers of 1" diameter, housed in a metal can. i used a 6uF 250 V MKP cap to cut the low out for the small one.
the housing is a bassreflex with a bass hole in the back, the styrofoam is relativly hard ( for styrofoam that is...) so i braced it on the inside with cardboard .
All cost me 10 euro and 2 hours time, sound is amazing for this price!!! very suitable for Jazz and any vocal music, and with the T- amp beeing so cheap, a excellent start for anyone who is interested in HIFI.
Attachments
Arjen you are very creative! I would never considered styrofoam in a loudspeaker design. Very cool (literally).
Very nice!
Looks like a candidate for a beach machine, lightweight but serious.
How do you find all this stuff? Do they have a market place in Shenzhen where electronics mongers sit behind baskets full of PCBs with a blackboard sticking out saying "TA2024 board, today only 50 RMB"?
My next board could go into something mobile for the DAP, maybe even battery powered. I would dream of distinct speakers, but smaller and maybe more rugged than styrofoam
Looks like a candidate for a beach machine, lightweight but serious.
How do you find all this stuff? Do they have a market place in Shenzhen where electronics mongers sit behind baskets full of PCBs with a blackboard sticking out saying "TA2024 board, today only 50 RMB"?
My next board could go into something mobile for the DAP, maybe even battery powered. I would dream of distinct speakers, but smaller and maybe more rugged than styrofoam
I reckon the Styrofoam could be coated to make it abrasion resistant. Glass cloth saturated with epoxy comes to mind (like a surfboard) but there must be cheaper and easier alternatives.
Arjen wrote:
The caps have kondensotor written on them... hahahah.
Checked my caps as well as the Mundorf Website Arjen.
The original M Caps are labelled "Kondensator" not ------sotor. You may have stumbled or originals if they are marked .....sator as unlike the supremes, the original M caps are NOT marked made in Germany. You need an eyeglass, or I do, to actually decypher the "a"
I know that the Obligato's are made in China. You may have stumbled on originals that "fell off the back of a factory"
Paul
The caps have kondensotor written on them... hahahah.
Checked my caps as well as the Mundorf Website Arjen.
The original M Caps are labelled "Kondensator" not ------sotor. You may have stumbled or originals if they are marked .....sator as unlike the supremes, the original M caps are NOT marked made in Germany. You need an eyeglass, or I do, to actually decypher the "a"
I know that the Obligato's are made in China. You may have stumbled on originals that "fell off the back of a factory"
Paul
Arjen;
Have dropped the first unit stock into chassis to replce a failed Sure board,after 48 hrs of "cookin" they sound pretty decent, but more is needed.
So on to the second unit for new input caps and larger tank units. Are the big caps shown in your picture replacements for C18&19? They look to be about 10K mfd yes?
Sure looks like a fun board to play with.
Pete
Have dropped the first unit stock into chassis to replce a failed Sure board,after 48 hrs of "cookin" they sound pretty decent, but more is needed.
So on to the second unit for new input caps and larger tank units. Are the big caps shown in your picture replacements for C18&19? They look to be about 10K mfd yes?
Sure looks like a fun board to play with.
Pete
hey, I ve been told this custom olympics bull is goin to last until oct 31!!! Comes like lightning from clean sky. 
seriously not cool , please keep us updated
seriously not cool , please keep us updatedHah, that's really cool Arjen. I was wondering what I was going to do to make a portable machine for festivals. Your idea is great 🙂
Styrofoam speakers
Thanks there jiggen,
These boxes i think you can also get where you leave, and if you want the drivers, i sell them at a very mild price.
ofcource you can also try what you can find locally, in holland i alwais tried second hand shops, sometimes you can get really lucky and get some old ugly philips speakers from the 70's, but those are amazing!!! Luckely no one knows about this hehe
Good luck!
Thanks there jiggen,
These boxes i think you can also get where you leave, and if you want the drivers, i sell them at a very mild price.
ofcource you can also try what you can find locally, in holland i alwais tried second hand shops, sometimes you can get really lucky and get some old ugly philips speakers from the 70's, but those are amazing!!! Luckely no one knows about this hehe
Good luck!
Back to the voltage on the output of one of my boards (man, this thread is diverse!):
It was unimpressed with adding 100nF either across the output or from any output to ground.
Following the traces on the board I learned that the solder blob is actually necessary. Else one channel looks different from the other and the schematic doesn't really make sense.
Since I didn't want to put up with the 110 or so mV I decided to add a trimmer just like suggested in the Tripath datasheet. Works: I can tune the voltage across the output to 1mV.
Cheers
It was unimpressed with adding 100nF either across the output or from any output to ground.
Following the traces on the board I learned that the solder blob is actually necessary. Else one channel looks different from the other and the schematic doesn't really make sense.
Since I didn't want to put up with the 110 or so mV I decided to add a trimmer just like suggested in the Tripath datasheet. Works: I can tune the voltage across the output to 1mV.
Cheers
Peter wrote: do you have a link to the datasheets with that info
http://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=TA 2024 C&q=TA 2024 C
The EB TA2024 Evaluation Board data is also available from the same web site.
Paul
http://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=TA 2024 C&q=TA 2024 C
The EB TA2024 Evaluation Board data is also available from the same web site.
Paul
TA2024
Thanks for that paul.
and thanks Elfishi i think thats a good solution to this problem.
Some of the boards are off a bit, ive also noticed that. but for that price... i cant get a perfect board. but thats the fun of it. ive got to leave some of the tinkering to you guy's or what are you going to tell your friends? ;-)
i have made a PDF file with all things i can offer here from shenzhen. im doing this to support the hobby and try to get DIY equipment below the price of new electronics.
if you want to see what's for sale here in Shenzhen China, drop me a mail and ill send you the list.
Greetings,
Arjen Helder
Thanks for that paul.
and thanks Elfishi i think thats a good solution to this problem.
Some of the boards are off a bit, ive also noticed that. but for that price... i cant get a perfect board. but thats the fun of it. ive got to leave some of the tinkering to you guy's or what are you going to tell your friends? ;-)
i have made a PDF file with all things i can offer here from shenzhen. im doing this to support the hobby and try to get DIY equipment below the price of new electronics.
if you want to see what's for sale here in Shenzhen China, drop me a mail and ill send you the list.
Greetings,
Arjen Helder
So my first foray into DIY audio has begun 🙂 My sure board arrived (quite fast too, 7-10 days). I know nothing about anything so I've been trawling through this forum.
Currently I'm testing it with a 9V adaptor (because my 12V has not arrived). Using some old floorstanding teacs that I purchased on the cheap to play around with the amp. It's sensitive enough. I have to say, with 9V and at low volume (it's 12am), it already sounds a bit better than my dodgy setup I had before 😀
Now, to get my head around these mods.
Currently I'm testing it with a 9V adaptor (because my 12V has not arrived). Using some old floorstanding teacs that I purchased on the cheap to play around with the amp. It's sensitive enough. I have to say, with 9V and at low volume (it's 12am), it already sounds a bit better than my dodgy setup I had before 😀
Now, to get my head around these mods.
Re: TA2024
Hi, Arjen,
is there any good quality inductors in SZ?
Something like the MPP MolyPermalloy type.
ArjenShenzhen said:
Hi, Arjen,
is there any good quality inductors in SZ?
Something like the MPP MolyPermalloy type.
Inductors
There must be, i see them every day here.
ill put a movie of the market on youtube when i have the time.
tell me what value you are looking for and ill let you know what i can do.
There must be, i see them every day here.
ill put a movie of the market on youtube when i have the time.
tell me what value you are looking for and ill let you know what i can do.
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