I used the coils from arjen on one of my sure boards, is playing quite nice, but got better results with the wurth xxl coils. Search this thread for wurth xxl or just the "coil pile" thread by sendler 😀
Ok, thanks, I guess this is Arjen from ebay?
But will double check this other you mention Wurth XXL coils. Are they simple to order or you need to order e.g. more than £20 etc?
So can you confirm they are not BURNING HOT 😱 to touch with the finger?
THANKS
FYI
Only want to inform other members that I purchased and installed those choke coils from ebay (Choke coil for class-D T-Amp 10uH 5A on eBay (end time 24-Sep-10 15:15:08 BST) seller kl_ho2010). I am not saying those are not good and I had no problems with transaction, I just think those are not good with this amp to upgrade.
They are burning hot to touch.
I would not recommend it for TK2050.
Hope it helps.
Only want to inform other members that I purchased and installed those choke coils from ebay (Choke coil for class-D T-Amp 10uH 5A on eBay (end time 24-Sep-10 15:15:08 BST) seller kl_ho2010). I am not saying those are not good and I had no problems with transaction, I just think those are not good with this amp to upgrade.
They are burning hot to touch.
I would not recommend it for TK2050.
Hope it helps.
Arjen his coils are not really burning hot, maybe warm.
The wurths get really hot, but sound much better 😀
The wurths get really hot, but sound much better 😀
I can see that Arjen coils are simple to order over ebay?
How do I order WURTHS without avoiding high shipping charges to Europe from DigikeyUS?
Would you suggest Wurths if they are too hot? Can you place your finger on them?
Thanks a lot for the help
Sandler,
So is this Wurth XXL from the link you are suggesting the best coil available for the TK2050?
Is the link you suggested enough to order the right part or are there better alternatives?
Regards
Distributor
Search the online sales that you normally use in your country. Someone will have them. You can epoxy a small, non magnetic heat sink onto the coils to keep them cool if you want.
Search the online sales that you normally use in your country. Someone will have them. You can epoxy a small, non magnetic heat sink onto the coils to keep them cool if you want.
Hi Scott,
So If i find the best sounding coils as suggested from Wurth, you also suggest I should epoxy them as well as apply some heatsinks?
What is generally damaging temperature for electronics elements?
Is 70C degrees safe if anybody knows?
Can you apply epoxy to present air coils?
Best regards
I would see how hot yours are getting before adding a heatsink.
I'm running 2 boards at 32v with XXL coils mine only get warm, not hot, so it's not an issue.
If they are too hot, then add a heatsink, I imagine small T220 type ones would work.
I'm running 2 boards at 32v with XXL coils mine only get warm, not hot, so it's not an issue.
If they are too hot, then add a heatsink, I imagine small T220 type ones would work.
What causes these boards to turn off? Too much Input, or not enough Power? I run mine with a HP 31.5V 3.17A adapter and it will play Loud and Proud until the the Music hits a Peak and it will just turn off. I will then just turn the Volume down a Tad and turn Everything Off and back On and it comes right back...Is it the Power Supply or the Board that causes this? And what can be done to stop this from happening? I have my Board set on the Low Input setting..
Brick
It must be the power supply going into shut down. I haven't heard of anyone else's amp cutting in and out even though the spec sheet says they have over temp protection. They usually just fry if they get too hot. Try a 36v Meanwell turned down to 32v.
True that, judging from the response in this thread.
I won't think is overheat either because odds of both power chips shutting down at the exact same time is low.
Speakers' impedance?
I was running my sure board with the same HP 31.5v adaptor and had a similar thing happen... I had the main out from my soundcard directly connected to the RCA input of the Sure board. I was messing around with a crappy reverb and it went into a crazy feedback loop (Very harsh noise, probably looked white noise)... The sound cut out after about 1/2 a second and I'd assumed I'd fried the sure, but then I noticed the on-board power led was off... I unplugged the adaptor, plugged it back in and the amp came back on and has been normal since.
Luckily I was monitoring @ a very low level when this happened so it wasn't very loud @ all. I'm not convinced that the amp's input saw anywhere near 2V, yet the adaptor shut off.
Guys, one more thing on the board: Do not touch the mute terminal while running.
It fried two of my testspeakers (30w speakers) with a very annoying tone (smoke from voice coils).
I was lucky it wasnt on my dad's main B&W speakers 😛
It fried two of my testspeakers (30w speakers) with a very annoying tone (smoke from voice coils).
I was lucky it wasnt on my dad's main B&W speakers 😛
In case of passive cooling and breathing but cased bcp, are these relaible? I've no intention to touch things while running but the ladder attenuator.
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