Hi all,
Did somebody knows where to buy good polipropylen or paper / oil 2.2 uF input caps in Europe (and especially in France)? I tried partsexpress, but unfortunately minimum order is 50$ and shipping is 40$.. A bit expensive for DIY a 30€ amp...
Thanks to all, i've read the 143 pages of this thread, and you've done a faboulous job on that amp!
ewidance.
Did somebody knows where to buy good polipropylen or paper / oil 2.2 uF input caps in Europe (and especially in France)? I tried partsexpress, but unfortunately minimum order is 50$ and shipping is 40$.. A bit expensive for DIY a 30€ amp...
Thanks to all, i've read the 143 pages of this thread, and you've done a faboulous job on that amp!
ewidance.
Farnell stocks the 4.7uH wurth coils again!
WUERTH ELEKTRONIK|7447709004|CHOKE, SMD, 4.7UH | Farnell United Kingdom
Go check it out
You need to be a company to order at farnell though :S
WUERTH ELEKTRONIK|7447709004|CHOKE, SMD, 4.7UH | Farnell United Kingdom
Go check it out
You need to be a company to order at farnell though :S
My Blackgate modded Sure, still does not wipe out my Blackgate modded Charlize 2. The Sure wins on timbre, dynamics and spreads the midrange better. The Charlize has a slightly wider, deeper soundstage, more air around musical instruments/vocals but much more importantly it is more musical.
I find my attention drifting when listening to music on the Sure, the Charlize 2 draws me in.
I'm using Arjen coils on the Sure, could be they can't match the aircores on the Charlize.
But it could also be the difference in the nature of the Tripath chips themselves. Its frustrating.... the Sure is so much better then the Charlize2 in many ways, in fact it sounds better, but the Charlize2 feels better.
By the way a friend, who is a musician/classical composer much prefers the Sure, so I'm being esoteric here. Its a difference that emerges when you live with the amps.
dr-vega, I see you put a couple of caps on the bottom of the board near the chips, would you let me know where they go, it might just give the extra life that I think the Sure is short of at the moment?
Any suggestions most welcome.
I find my attention drifting when listening to music on the Sure, the Charlize 2 draws me in.
I'm using Arjen coils on the Sure, could be they can't match the aircores on the Charlize.
But it could also be the difference in the nature of the Tripath chips themselves. Its frustrating.... the Sure is so much better then the Charlize2 in many ways, in fact it sounds better, but the Charlize2 feels better.
By the way a friend, who is a musician/classical composer much prefers the Sure, so I'm being esoteric here. Its a difference that emerges when you live with the amps.
dr-vega, I see you put a couple of caps on the bottom of the board near the chips, would you let me know where they go, it might just give the extra life that I think the Sure is short of at the moment?
Any suggestions most welcome.
Toroids
If those are the 68mm toroids on the Sure, they are way too small. Swap the Charlize aircores onto the Sure for a big surprise. The coil is the key with these amps.
If those are the 68mm toroids on the Sure, they are way too small. Swap the Charlize aircores onto the Sure for a big surprise. The coil is the key with these amps.
Hi Scott, so the right inductor is important for transparency and musicality.
Might try that with the charlize air cores but it may not be so easy to put them back afterwards.
But I have some 18awg coated magnetic wire, I have read here that 22 turns is about right for an air core, what would be the the former diameter though,?
Thanks
Might try that with the charlize air cores but it may not be so easy to put them back afterwards.
But I have some 18awg coated magnetic wire, I have read here that 22 turns is about right for an air core, what would be the the former diameter though,?
Thanks
excuse me sendler but I have really not the time to read all of the 150 pages here.
I am a techniqial beginner and tested the board shortly ago. I found it remarkable but felt that it needs something like a highpass filter because hearing long time with high vol. levels leads a bit in an ear pressure. Can you
confirm that and are these coils you are reading about suitable solution for this ? As I know you worked intensiv to make this board better ... What are the elementar things to be done with this board ?
Best wishes
Coil calculator
I use this coil calculator.
.
Coil Calculator - Single-layer and mutil-layer coil calculation in javascript
.
I use this coil calculator.
.
Coil Calculator - Single-layer and mutil-layer coil calculation in javascript
.
Man what a great laugh this thread is often giving me! Keep it up, those crazy heatsink pics! It reminds me of the Signetics WOM datasheet. Look at the part about 'COOLING'...
http://www.national.com/rap/files/datasheet.pdf
41hz AMP15 running at + and - 60Vdc, 6.8R 200W dummyloads (running HOT!)
Fet temperature after 1 hour running and NO heatsink.
This is class T!
http://www.national.com/rap/files/datasheet.pdf
41hz AMP15 running at + and - 60Vdc, 6.8R 200W dummyloads (running HOT!)
Fet temperature after 1 hour running and NO heatsink.
This is class T!
Attachments
Last edited:
Yeah, don't worry, I just said I was a company and no probs the coils came through. But fitting them is a complete ***...............
Got mine from here, very helpful on the phone too, nice change to have someone interested in their products and in you !
amplifier valve kits, HIFI pre-amplifiers, speaker kits, upgrade components
Marcus
Arrrggg... things are getting worse for me with these Wurth coils.... Ok, took them all off and redid them, now one channel is fine hooray, but the other is far from happy. Getting a sort whining noise when connected to the woofer, or a Dolphin like clicking through the tweeter.... Set my meter to 200k ohms and got a reading of 15.8. The other channel that works fine is 32.0.
Any ideas ? One thing that I have noticed is C50 would not take any solder when replacing it (removed it take make room when fitting the Wurths). Please take a look at my pics of top and bot of my board. thanks.
Any ideas ? One thing that I have noticed is C50 would not take any solder when replacing it (removed it take make room when fitting the Wurths). Please take a look at my pics of top and bot of my board. thanks.
Man what a great laugh this thread is often giving me! Keep it up, those crazy heatsink pics! It reminds me of the Signetics WOM datasheet. Look at the part about 'COOLING'...
http://www.national.com/rap/files/datasheet.pdf
41hz AMP15 running at + and - 60Vdc, 6.8R 200W dummyloads (running HOT!)
Fet temperature after 1 hour running and NO heatsink.
This is class T!
Sure amp is running 27V, 8 ohms, and playing sweet music. No Schadenfreude required.
dr_vega, you have a PM.
It just depends on what you are satisfied with I guess... sorry about the pun!
Why the German language by the way? I don't understand that ****...
It just depends on what you are satisfied with I guess... sorry about the pun!
Why the German language by the way? I don't understand that ****...
You must of missed that episode of the Simpsons.
Trying a couple West-Cap 3uf, very nice natural tone, found bypassing them with nos russian polystyrene just lifts them nicely. US and Soviet coldwar tec working together, oh the irony.
nice tip!
I received a tk2050 board yesterday, it's not the sure but another similar Chinese made 2*100w. Im really impressed by the sound!
Read more in this post
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/164274-new-tk2050-board.html#post2159965
Read more in this post
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/164274-new-tk2050-board.html#post2159965
Hi Barbieboy, try adding a link as shown in 1st pic..
To check your inductors are soldered to the pads, you should have near zero resistance between the points in pic 2..
Attachments
Last edited:
Short
Measure resistance through each cap. The bigger ones should read 16K because of the circuit they are in. Although the one with the missing pad may not be in the circuit. The smaller one should read 32K.
.
The reason that the one pad won't take solder is probably because the pad is no longer there. You will have to run a jumper according to the schematic to the next closest pad. That is probably the shorted cap that any way. If it is shorted, you will need to replace them all so that they match. Always check the DC offset again with a resistor for a load before connecting to your speakers and fine tuning.
Arrrggg... things are getting worse for me with these Wurth coils.... Ok, took them all off and redid them, now one channel is fine hooray, but the other is far from happy. Getting a sort whining noise when connected to the woofer, or a Dolphin like clicking through the tweeter.... Set my meter to 200k ohms and got a reading of 15.8. The other channel that works fine is 32.0.
Any ideas ? One thing that I have noticed is C50 would not take any solder when replacing it (removed it take make room when fitting the Wurths). Please take a look at my pics of top and bot of my board. thanks.
Measure resistance through each cap. The bigger ones should read 16K because of the circuit they are in. Although the one with the missing pad may not be in the circuit. The smaller one should read 32K.
.
The reason that the one pad won't take solder is probably because the pad is no longer there. You will have to run a jumper according to the schematic to the next closest pad. That is probably the shorted cap that any way. If it is shorted, you will need to replace them all so that they match. Always check the DC offset again with a resistor for a load before connecting to your speakers and fine tuning.
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.