Sure Electronics New Tripath Board tc2000+tp2050

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I think i overlooked something. The 4x100W 4Ohm amp. is already bridged, so its not possible to use my 120W 8Ohm speakers at max. performance?

The simple answer is "no." But that doesn't tell the whole story. First, unless you are using professional speakers or competition car speakers, it's unlikely you speakers will sustain 120 watts RMS. More likely, they can handle peaks of 120 watts and about 60 watts RMS. And 60 watts RMS is just about what the Sure does.

But amplifier power is not the end of the story. At least as important are your speaker efficiency and room configuration.

Doubling amp power gives you only a 3 dB gain in volume. You can say the Sure gives about 60 watts/channel. A 120 watt amp will only be 3 db louder, scarcely noticable. A 240 watt amp will only be 6 db louder.

If your speaker is 87 dB efficient, your volume looks like this:

1 watt = 87 db
2 = 90
4 = 93
8 = 96
16 = 99
32 = 102
64 = 105
128 = 108
256 watts = 111 db

If your speaker is 93 db efficient, your volume looks like this:

1 watt = 93 db
2 = 96
4 = 99
8 = 102
16 = 105
32 = 108
64 = 111
128 = 114
256 watts = 117 dB

If you loudness is important to you, start with efficient speakers.

That's if "max performance" means loudness to you.

If "max performance" means sound quality, the Sure will deliver superbly and the volume will be plenty for most non-professional needs. With a few simple, inexpensive modifications, the Sure can be as good as any amp you can buy at any price (IMHO).

-dr_vega
 
Thanks alot for your reply. Unfortunately i forgot all about details on my speakers. But it cleared things up that bridging isnt possible, which i was hoping was opposite..

Anyhow these are the details on my speakers. I am using Canton InCeiling 800 with following specs:

Type: 2-way
Impedance: 8ohms
Norm./Music Power Handling: 90/140W
SPL (1W in 1m): 88dB
Frequency Response: 42...30,000 Hz

So likely i should be able to archieve approx ~105dB based on the SPL?

The simple answer is "no." But that doesn't tell the whole story. First, unless you are using professional speakers or competition car speakers, it's unlikely you speakers will sustain 120 watts RMS. More likely, they can handle peaks of 120 watts and about 60 watts RMS. And 60 watts RMS is just about what the Sure does.

But amplifier power is not the end of the story. At least as important are your speaker efficiency and room configuration.

Doubling amp power gives you only a 3 dB gain in volume. You can say the Sure gives about 60 watts/channel. A 120 watt amp will only be 3 db louder, scarcely noticable. A 240 watt amp will only be 6 db louder.

If your speaker is 87 dB efficient, your volume looks like this:

1 watt = 87 db
2 = 90
4 = 93
8 = 96
16 = 99
32 = 102
64 = 105
128 = 108
256 watts = 111 db

If your speaker is 93 db efficient, your volume looks like this:

1 watt = 93 db
2 = 96
4 = 99
8 = 102
16 = 105
32 = 108
64 = 111
128 = 114
256 watts = 117 dB

If you loudness is important to you, start with efficient speakers.

That's if "max performance" means loudness to you.

If "max performance" means sound quality, the Sure will deliver superbly and the volume will be plenty for most non-professional needs. With a few simple, inexpensive modifications, the Sure can be as good as any amp you can buy at any price (IMHO).

-dr_vega
 
Thanks alot for your reply. Unfortunately i forgot all about details on my speakers. But it cleared things up that bridging isnt possible, which i was hoping was opposite..

The Sure amps can't be bridged because they are already bridged. The 4*100 amp actually has 8 amplifier channels. Amp pairs are bridged to give you 4 bridged output channels.

-dr_vega
 
That makes quite sense when taking a look at the schematic now on their website. But whats your opinion concerning the sound quality and volume based on my speaker specs? Also i have noticed that a few has mentioned the 4channel amps are more buggy than the 2channel?

The Sure amps can't be bridged because they are already bridged. The 4*100 amp actually has 8 amplifier channels. Amp pairs are bridged to give you 4 bridged output channels.

-dr_vega
 
where the ground leads for the output capacitors go. Im using a separate breadboard that will be held in place by screws.
hi, i got their leads to ground by screwing them to the corner holes..
it's perfectly working :)
hope my pictures will explain my way better than me..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Guys, i want to THANK YOU ALL, even if i'm not so intersted to make my own experiments, it's a great pleasure for me to read about yours..you rule! :cool:
 
That makes quite sense when taking a look at the schematic now on their website. But whats your opinion concerning the sound quality and volume based on my speaker specs? Also i have noticed that a few has mentioned the 4channel amps are more buggy than the 2channel?

I'm not sure anyone can tell you if you'll like the results with your speakers and the Sure. You'll have to try it.

I have tried the Sure with some Wharfedale 6 ohm, 87dB 3-ways, and loved the sound. And loudness was not a problem, I seldom turned it up past 1/4.

Your power supply will affect your results. If it delivers 30 - 36v and 3 or more amps, you should be very happy.

If you try to run the house system at a karaoke bar with a 12v wall wart, you'll probably be disappointed.

Truthfully, I think you'll find the stock Sure produces excellent results in your system. If you modify it, it will be superb.

Sure had some build quality problems with the 4*100w. I think there were shorting problems with the voltage regulator. I believe they have solved it. They have been very good about replacing amps that had problems.

-dr_vega
 
hi, i got their leads to ground by screwing them to the corner holes..
it's perfectly working :)
hope my pictures will explain my way better than me..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Guys, i want to THANK YOU ALL, even if i'm not so intersted to make my own experiments, it's a great pleasure for me to read about yours..you rule! :cool:

Looks good, madqwerty, nice work. But I don't believe you'll be able to eschew experimenting, you've tasted the diy kool-aide. I predict air-cores within 6 months.;)

-dr_vega
 
Nice to see that my ideas werent all wrong.
I have been looking at these powersupplies for the boards:

36V DC 9.7A 349.2W Regulated Switching Power Supply_Industrial Power Adapter_Boxed Industrial Power Adapter and Chargers and Transformers_Measure Power Adapters_Sure Electronics' Webstore

To me they seem suiteable, whats your view?


That's the Meanwell that a lot of people on this thread like a lot.

Keep in mind that I've never seen a 4*100. My comments are based on the 2*100 board. You might want go read the 4*100 thread and see if their recommendations are any different.

-dr_vega
 
I have been looking around the thread concerning the 4x100 and i see that alot have issues with them. Might go with the 2x100 after all. But what bothers me is that that the 350W supplies seem quite overkill for the 2 channel amps?

That's the Meanwell that a lot of people on this thread like a lot.

Keep in mind that I've never seen a 4*100. My comments are based on the 2*100 board. You might want go read the 4*100 thread and see if their recommendations are any different.

-dr_vega
 
I have been looking around the thread concerning the 4x100 and i see that alot have issues with them. Might go with the 2x100 after all. But what bothers me is that that the 350W supplies seem quite overkill for the 2 channel amps?

Don't think of it as overkill, think of it as reserve power.

Actually, I'm using 36v 3 amp Kodak laser printer smps bricks. They cost about $25 on ebay. They are easy to hide and have good WAF and work well, but, in retrospect, I wish I had bought the Meanwell.

-dr_vega
 
I see your point. But as i am considering the 2x100 amp. (~2x60W 8Ohm), would it be possible to use the PSU on 2 amp's?

Don't think of it as overkill, think of it as reserve power.

Actually, I'm using 36v 3 amp Kodak laser printer smps bricks. They cost about $25 on ebay. They are easy to hide and have good WAF and work well, but, in retrospect, I wish I had bought the Meanwell.

-dr_vega
 
1 power supply for 2 amps

I see your point. But as i am considering the 2x100 amp. (~2x60W 8Ohm), would it be possible to use the PSU on 2 amp's?

Sure says yes you can use one power supply with two amps but I haven't tried it. That is why they put the extra connector block on the amps. But again, it is well worth the additional $40 to buy a second power supply to use one for right and one for left to get the best stereo separation and shortest possible speaker wires. I have compared running stereo vs. two amps and supplies as dual mono and the latter does indeed sound better even with the same speaker cables. The sound stage reaches deeper into the corners. Changing from 8 foot speaker cables to 1.5 feet in another previous listening test brought even bigger improvements in all aspects.
 
Sure says yes you can use one power supply with two amps but I haven't tried it. That is why they put the extra connector block on the amps. But again, it is well worth the additional $40 to buy a second power supply to use one for right and one for left to get the best stereo separation and shortest possible speaker wires. I have compared running stereo vs. two amps and supplies as dual mono and the latter does indeed sound better even with the same speaker cables. The sound stage reaches deeper into the corners. Changing from 8 foot speaker cables to 1.5 feet in another previous listening test brought even bigger improvements in all aspects.

I agree with everything sendler says except I don't know why Sure suggests daisy-chaining the amps on the power supply. I think I would just hook the amps up in parallel. The only consideration is whether the Meanwell can handle the current surge for two amps at turn-on. That should not be a problem with stock amps, but you might need a soft-start if you add tank caps to the boards.

-dr_vega
 
Belden 1701A

So what do you use as an interconnect between src/preamp and the amplifier. DIYing short run can do without shielding but longer runs ....?

It also prevents the use of a passive pre I suppose.
I use Belden 1701A interconnects, 8 feet in length with stepped attenuators right at the amps. The twist rate provides the shielding and having the attenuators at the amps doesn't care about the cable length.
 
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