Super Pensil 12 build

[planet10]

I didn't get any screws with my drivers.

Used drivers? I have extras if you really need.

Why the hate for t nuts?

You only have to have lost 1 t-nut to realize why. I currently have 7 (of 8) KEF B200 in cabinet sthat have at least 1 lost t-nut on each driver. The one on the same baffle i will be able to retrieve fairly painlessly, but the other 6 might require destroying part of th ebaffle to extract them.

Plywood isn’t as bad as MDF, but still an issue even if you do take the extra effort to pull the very firmly into the wood.

dave

 

[flamethrower1]

No new from Madisound.
Appreciate the offer, have a boatload of screws.
I have it figured out, just need the time to get at it.

Appreciated, Greg

 

[planet10]

Than as Mario suggested he screws are probably still in the foam (2.5mm hex).

dave

 

[flamethrower1]

Thanks for the heads up Dave, found them

 

[flamethrower1]

pensil build

Well, finally got back to this project with a little time this afternoon.
My goal was to get the baffles cut for the drivers.
Simple right?
The OD and ID cuts require I switch between the 2 circle jigs I have.
Some progress made anyway in the limited time I had.

 

[zman01]

My goal was to get the baffles cut for the drivers.
Simple right?

flamethrower1,

You're getting there!

Doing the rebated driver cutouts is a bit time consuming. I use a Jasper jig for the circular cuts; what are you using?

 

[flamethrower1]

I do not recall the brand but, I am going to get a Jasper.
Retooling for the same job sucks

 

[flamethrower1]

Super Pensil

Baffles done, no on to the center brace.

 

[zman01]

Nice work flamethrower1.

 

[flamethrower1]

super pensil

Laying out the braces, hopefully its all downhill from here

 

[flamethrower1]

Well, this is what I am rolling with for the main baffle.
Right at the 39% range of hole to baffle ratio, before the speaker relief which I have not calculated yet.

 

[planet10]

Close enuff.

dave

 

[flamethrower1]

Well, a little closer.
That Baltic birch is tough on router bits.
Just have to do the two side baffles and will be ready to start gluing things together.

 

[flamethrower1]

Side braces, that was a lot of holes

 

[zman01]

Side bracing is smaller and hopefully will be easier to do.

 

[mp9]

Why not use a 6" diameter hole saw?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-...Vo9SzCh00XwHyEAQYByABEgIVTfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[simplesteve]

Keep the pictures coming please flamethrower - they are teaching me so much, and give me a quality target to aim for, although I doubt I'll get anywhere near..!

 

[flamethrower1]

That would have made my 4.75" holes a little large.

Why not use a 6" diameter hole saw?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-...Vo9SzCh00XwHyEAQYByABEgIVTfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Eric]

You'll need a pretty sturdy drill, preferably with two handle grips, to swing a 6" hole saw.

Looking forward to seeing the completed speaker!

 

[mp9]

That would have made my 4.75" holes a little large.

OK then you could get a 4 1/2" or 5" hole saw -

https://www.lowes.com/pd/LENOX-4-1-2-in-Bi-Metal-Arbored-Hole-Saw/1003019154

- has to be easier than doing that many with router circle jig and 1/4" up-spiral bit.

I have both, hole saws and plunge router, also have a drill press but never had any trouble using the 6" hole saw/arbor attached to nothing more than a standard drill.