Morse said:
Is it on the digital out or analog out? Even if it is on the analog out, couldn't you filter it out with an easy rc filter? wouldn't that be a lot easier than putting in a linear supply with all those voltages?
Hi Millwood;
>>>...Even if it is on the analog out, couldn't you filter it out with an easy rc filter?...<<<
Can a SMPS be effectively filtered? Absolutely. However, you're going to find that you're going to have a tough time getting the best possible sound by adding parts in the signal stream - better to filter RFI from the power supply before it leaves the power supply. Also, the issue of RFI from a SMPS entering other devices must then be addressed, which is one reason I use such aggressive RF filtering at the AC inlet over here.
However, if you have a player with a malfunctioning SMPS (which is what Lyra posted he believed was the case with his) then it strikes me as easiest to sidestep the whole SMPS issue completely with a DIY linear regulated supply. Easiest of all to replace the unit completely, but to an EE more willing to spend time than money.....
Linear regulated supplies are much easier to design, build, and debug than are SMPS ones - as I discovered when I was doing the groundwork on my (still theoretical) valve type portable headphone amp. Designing a GOOD one is a nontrivial task, unfortunately.
As far as all the different voltages are concerned, for someone from a valve background that's par for the course. My DIY 2A3 uses 2.5VDC, 5VDC, 6.3VDC and 350VDC, all from separate transformers and/or windings.
All the best,
Morse
>>>...Even if it is on the analog out, couldn't you filter it out with an easy rc filter?...<<<
Can a SMPS be effectively filtered? Absolutely. However, you're going to find that you're going to have a tough time getting the best possible sound by adding parts in the signal stream - better to filter RFI from the power supply before it leaves the power supply. Also, the issue of RFI from a SMPS entering other devices must then be addressed, which is one reason I use such aggressive RF filtering at the AC inlet over here.
However, if you have a player with a malfunctioning SMPS (which is what Lyra posted he believed was the case with his) then it strikes me as easiest to sidestep the whole SMPS issue completely with a DIY linear regulated supply. Easiest of all to replace the unit completely, but to an EE more willing to spend time than money.....
Linear regulated supplies are much easier to design, build, and debug than are SMPS ones - as I discovered when I was doing the groundwork on my (still theoretical) valve type portable headphone amp. Designing a GOOD one is a nontrivial task, unfortunately.
As far as all the different voltages are concerned, for someone from a valve background that's par for the course. My DIY 2A3 uses 2.5VDC, 5VDC, 6.3VDC and 350VDC, all from separate transformers and/or windings.
All the best,
Morse
just a follow-up to this discussion on job migration. yesterday IBM announced that it will outsource close to 5000 programming jobs to India, China and other low cost regions.
I bought a cheapo DVD yesterday with the name 'Clairtone' on the badge. It cost 38UKP and sounds quite reasonable playing CD's but I get the ocassional click and silence so I will be taking it back for a replacement or refund.
And I remember the days when factories had a quality control department but that job has now been out-sourced, not to India or China but to the consumer!
And I remember the days when factories had a quality control department but that job has now been out-sourced, not to India or China but to the consumer!
I'm trying to say this since the beginning...
😀
I can't say this enough:
THOSE CHEAPO DVDs ARE CRAP!!!
One of those things you use only once.
Even worst than a condom, at least it works once.
Nuuk, ask your money back or you'll go to the store every day.
Would you spend 250 Euros tweaking that crap?🙄
New clock, new op-amps?😱
And a dead player before the warranty finishes?
For god's sake, I've seen that film before.
Nuuk said:I bought a cheapo DVD yesterday with the name 'Clairtone' on the badge. It cost 38UKP and sounds quite reasonable playing CD's but I get the ocassional click and silence so I will be taking it back for a replacement or refund.
And I remember the days when factories had a quality control department but that job has now been out-sourced, not to India or China but to the consumer!
😀
I can't say this enough:
THOSE CHEAPO DVDs ARE CRAP!!!
One of those things you use only once.
Even worst than a condom, at least it works once.
Nuuk, ask your money back or you'll go to the store every day.
Would you spend 250 Euros tweaking that crap?🙄
New clock, new op-amps?😱
And a dead player before the warranty finishes?
For god's sake, I've seen that film before.
Re: I'm trying to say this since the beginning...
This is a good point. What choices are there in the US for current inexpensive DVD players to modify? Is there one that can be found for around $100 worth hot rodding? Or do you have to spend more to get good sound AND good quality? Perhaps there are some that are under $200? Many are modifying the Phillips 963 but I think it costs over $300.carlosfm said:
😀
I can't say this enough:
THOSE CHEAPO DVDs ARE CRAP!!!
One of those things you use only once.
Even worst than a condom, at least it works once.
Nuuk, ask your money back or you'll go to the store every day.
Would you spend 250 Euros tweaking that crap?🙄
New clock, new op-amps?😱
And a dead player before the warranty finishes?
For god's sake, I've seen that film before.
Lars,
Why didn't you go all the way and install yer Zapfilter in the el-chepo DVD ? Then compare it with the $2000 CDP and see.
BTW what's in the Zap filter ? Care to share the schematics ?
Why didn't you go all the way and install yer Zapfilter in the el-chepo DVD ? Then compare it with the $2000 CDP and see.
BTW what's in the Zap filter ? Care to share the schematics ?
To bring you up to date with my Clairtone story, I took it back to the store on Wednesday and they replaced it without fuss.
However, when I tested the replacement, I found that I could still hear some noise under the music so I played a digital silence track from a test CD and with the volume turned up, I can clearly hear what seems to be motor noise, probably from the sled motor.
However, that aside, the sound is good and can probably be made quite respectable with a small amount of tweaking. Build quality is poor but again that could be rectified with a bit of DIY.
Now Carlos, I agree that this could become a bit expensive except for the point that you are starting with something that costs so little, 38 UKP in my case.
If I had paid say 100UKP, I would be much more critical of the short-comings of this DVD, but not so at 38UKP.
I still reckon that at the price, it is a reasonable candidate for a good sounding (budget) CD player.
The question now is do I return it for a refund or try and cure the motor noise with a cap? Fortunately, a friend is in the same situation and will hopefully report back on whether the noise is curable.
However, when I tested the replacement, I found that I could still hear some noise under the music so I played a digital silence track from a test CD and with the volume turned up, I can clearly hear what seems to be motor noise, probably from the sled motor.
However, that aside, the sound is good and can probably be made quite respectable with a small amount of tweaking. Build quality is poor but again that could be rectified with a bit of DIY.
Now Carlos, I agree that this could become a bit expensive except for the point that you are starting with something that costs so little, 38 UKP in my case.
If I had paid say 100UKP, I would be much more critical of the short-comings of this DVD, but not so at 38UKP.
I still reckon that at the price, it is a reasonable candidate for a good sounding (budget) CD player.
The question now is do I return it for a refund or try and cure the motor noise with a cap? Fortunately, a friend is in the same situation and will hopefully report back on whether the noise is curable.
Nuuk said:
Nuuk, send it back.
This is the most sincere advice I can give you.
The moment you open it, you loose the warranty.
Imagine that you can't cure the motor noise (crap dvd-roms...) with just a cap.
You'll be stucked to that crap, and I assure you that those things don't last long.
My father, after 2 ultra-cheap DVDs, changed to a cheap (120 Euros) Pioneer (my first advice
before he bought the first one).My brother bought a 115 Euros😱 DVD-A/V Panasonic.
Guys, this is miles ahead from that ultra-cheap crap.
I will lose some time with these two players.😉
Well it was 50/50 but in the end I decided to take it back for a refund.
What swung the decision? Well, I didn't want to have Carlos worried all over Christmas 😉
What swung the decision? Well, I didn't want to have Carlos worried all over Christmas 😉
Nuuk said:
peraonally, I am too poor to buy cheap stuff.
At work, I think anything is good at a price.
For 38BP, even if it doesn't work, you can certainly afford to throw it out.
Now, if you paid $1000 for a Sony S7000 in the spring of 1997, like I did, that would be an entirely different story, 🙂
Nuuk said:
😀
You did well.
That money has a build quality that the DVD player lacks.
Save the money for something a little better.😉
Hi Carlos;
Thanks for the help over on my TDA2030. I did get one channel working following the advice from you and others and will redo it using miniature circuit boards rather than wiring directly to the pins. This'll have to wait 'til after the holidays though.
>>>...My father, after 2 ultra-cheap DVDs, changed to a cheap (120 Euros) Pioneer (my first advice before he bought the first one). My brother bought a 115 Euros DVD-A/V Panasonic. Guys, this is miles ahead from that ultra-cheap crap. I will lose some time with these two players...<<<
That's pretty much the same experience over here (albeit with other 'no-name' electronics) in the past. I think you're onto something - a brand name guarantees that it won't be complete garbage, since none of the brands wants a reputation for something like that. With the fly-by-nighters it's a total crapshoot as to quality. Frankly, given the prices of most high end players, I've come to regard my Panasonics and Sony as "super cheap" and hadn't even thought of the no-names when I started posting on this thread.
All the best and Happy Holidays!
Morse
Thanks for the help over on my TDA2030. I did get one channel working following the advice from you and others and will redo it using miniature circuit boards rather than wiring directly to the pins. This'll have to wait 'til after the holidays though.
>>>...My father, after 2 ultra-cheap DVDs, changed to a cheap (120 Euros) Pioneer (my first advice before he bought the first one). My brother bought a 115 Euros DVD-A/V Panasonic. Guys, this is miles ahead from that ultra-cheap crap. I will lose some time with these two players...<<<
That's pretty much the same experience over here (albeit with other 'no-name' electronics) in the past. I think you're onto something - a brand name guarantees that it won't be complete garbage, since none of the brands wants a reputation for something like that. With the fly-by-nighters it's a total crapshoot as to quality. Frankly, given the prices of most high end players, I've come to regard my Panasonics and Sony as "super cheap" and hadn't even thought of the no-names when I started posting on this thread.
All the best and Happy Holidays!
Morse
Carlos , its true that the €100 made in Slovakia Panasonic s35 DVD-Audio and DVD Video machine its miles ahead of asian cheap DVD players . I will not call crap to the cheap european production , and everything made in Denmark even cheap like Kiss DVD, dIVX player , sure deserves attention and Lars too .
But i think that we may full agree the idea that a cheap
DVD no matter his origin , once we change a few important components , in the power supply mainly , can stand comparison
with the expensive ones , i have been doing this for the last ten
years . I m talking of small amounts of money .
Regards
Martinho Adao
But i think that we may full agree the idea that a cheap
DVD no matter his origin , once we change a few important components , in the power supply mainly , can stand comparison
with the expensive ones , i have been doing this for the last ten
years . I m talking of small amounts of money .
Regards
Martinho Adao
TugaTweaker said:
Hi Martinho.
We are talking here of cheap DVDs for tweaking and playing audio CDs.
In my view that's not the best option.
I would buy a good second hand CD player and tweak it.
Or a serious brand (even cheap) DVD player.
And I don't include the Kiss DVD in the group of cheap DVD players.
After all, its costs more than a cheap Pioneer, Sony, Philips, Toshiba... and it looks like a much more serious device than those 50 Euros😱 DVD players.
I've been tweaking for many years too, but I wouldn't loose my time and money with these crap things.
This is my advice for you guys, take it or leave it.
I just don't like to hit play and break it.😱 😀
Always liked quality things.
some of the apex players are actually CD-ROMs, and I have yet to hear one person insane enough to claim that copies made from a cheap and an inexpensive CD-ROMs are different (assuming of course that both work).
I agree that the analog part of the circuitry can make potentially audible difference but the digital part? sure you can pay more for less but why?
But then again I am not goden-ear enough to hear any of that, 😉
I agree that the analog part of the circuitry can make potentially audible difference but the digital part? sure you can pay more for less but why?
But then again I am not goden-ear enough to hear any of that, 😉
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