Subwoofer driver choices for DIY sub.

[Bill C]

I purchased a Goldwood GW-12PC-4 to build a subwoofer awhile ago without much checking about what I was doing. I want to build a nice sub. but I'm having second thoughts about this driver and I'm now thinking of getting a CSS 10" subduction woofer. I'm using 100 watt plate amp. and I want clean bass for music it dosen't have to shake the house I just want it as clean and tight as I can get. If neither of these drivers work well could someone recommend one that will work with a 100 watts the size of the box dosen't matter and can be 10" or 12". I will be doing all the work myself so I would like it to work right and not waist my time doing something that booms and sounds awful. I just want clean bass for music. I would also like to keep it under $200. I had great success the first time I asked for help so I thought I would ask again before I even started.

Thanks very much.
Bill C

 

[ODougbo]

Bill check this out:

Dayton Audio UM10-22 10" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohm Per Coi 295-510

 

[bjorno]

I purchased a Goldwood GW-12PC-4 to build a subwoofer awhile ago without much checking about what I was doing. I want to build a nice sub. but I'm having second thoughts about this driver and I'm now thinking of getting a CSS 10" subduction woofer. I'm using 100 watt plate amp. and I want clean bass for music it dosen't have to shake the house I just want it as clean and tight as I can get. If neither of these drivers work well could someone recommend one that will work with a 100 watts the size of the box dosen't matter and can be 10" or 12". I will be doing all the work myself so I would like it to work right and not waist my time doing something that booms and sounds awful. I just want clean bass for music. I would also like to keep it under $200. I had great success the first time I asked for help so I thought I would ask again before I even started.

Thanks very much.
Bill C

Hi Bill,

The proposed Driver is IMO quite adequate for Music use...

b

 

[turbodawg]

^ bjorno's design looks pretty much perfect!

I would recommend building with 3/4" (23/32") poplar plywood, available at home depot on the cheap, and superior to MDF for subs:

PureBond 23/32 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Poplar Plywood-770579 at The Home Depot

 

[ODougbo]

Ugh...that stuff, I tried it for a pair of speakers a few weeks ago, I didn't think it worked well at all. I think I'd go for the MDF over the lightweight plywood.

Look for Baltic Birch, it's not that hard to find. $40 for 1/2", $59 for 3/4".

** I may put the light plywood pair up on swap meet - "free boxes".

 

[turbodawg]

Ugh...that stuff, I tried it for a pair of speakers a few weeks ago, I didn't think it worked well at all. I think I'd go for the MDF over the lightweight plywood.

Look for Baltic Birch, it's not that hard to find. $40 for 1/2", $59 for 3/4".

** I may put the light plywood pair up on swap meet - "free boxes".

What's wrong with the poplar? I've built subs with birch faced poplar several times, it's plenty stiff and light, but I perfer to coat it internally with damping material. I certainly wouldn't use it for mains without a thick coat of damping material.

 

[Bill C]

Thanks very much bjorno it does look perfect I think. Please forgive me but I'm new to building speakers and this is my first build. Looking at the plans is it a sealed box or ported? If ported what size is the port. I think I have the box volume but I'm alittle mixed up on it. This is perfect if I can understand it I just might be able to build it. Sorry for being such a dummy but could you explain it alittle more.

Thanks for your patients
Bill C

 

[tb46]

Hi Bill C,

Bjorno's simulation from Post #3 for the GW-12PC/4 is a ported (bass reflex) enclosure, w/ an internal volume of V_net=79.8L(2.818ft^3) (add extra volume for braces/speaker displacement), and a 4"Dia.x8.66"long port (duct).


Hallo bjorno,

How about a simple tapered OD-TL for this driver, could you do your stuffing magic on that one?

Regards,

 

[ODougbo]

That looks great!

Bill what size restrictions do you have - if any?
I wouldn't build a cube, (vs. rectangle) but I know some like that idea.

Wood to use: (IMO)

* Baltic Birch 3/4" (multi-layer plywood)
* 1" MDF
* 3/4 MDF

I saw the other day where a $1,200 Velodyne is using 5/8" MDF for walls, however not all MDF is the same. The one I don't care for is the very dark color MDF; it's pretty wimpy (like wet newspaper glued together).

btw - Never get MDF wet...geshhh what a mess!

 

[Bill C]

No size restrictions. I already have 3/4" MDF I thought that was what to use so I got it awhile ago. It is light in colour. The Baltic birch does sound intresting though. Thanks everyone for the help I just wish I'd sent a message in sooner it would have saved me a big headache. As I said I have much to learn. Thanks TB46 for making it clear.

Bill C

 

[ODougbo]

Looks like you are on the right track!

Might want to consider some bracing, even if a few dowels (which are the easiest)

 

[bjorno]

Hi Bill C,

Bjorno's simulation from Post #3 for the GW-12PC/4 is a ported (bass reflex) enclosure, w/ an internal volume of V_net=79.8L(2.818ft^3) (add extra volume for braces/speaker displacement), and a 4"Dia.x8.66"long port (duct).


Hallo bjorno,

How about a simple tapered OD-TL for this driver, could you do your stuffing magic on that one?

Regards,

Hi Oliver,

You're right,This Driver is good in a stuffed TL too:

b

 

[Bill C]

Hi ODougbo I had planned on lots of bracing. For stuffing is it best to line the walls or fill the box or both. This is acctually getting to be fun.

 

[ODougbo]

Well sure its fun, lots of folks on here enjoy building speaker boxes. Helps with woodworking skills also.

You have some heavy hitters checking out your project; sure you don't want to change direction and build a TL box?

 

[tb46]

Hi Y'all,

I drew up a TL using the data from Posts #8 and #12:

Regards,

 

[ODougbo]

Oliver, bjorno, Good stuff!!

Bill, highly recommend the TL box.

For inspiration, posting a pic from last year's "forum build" a T-TQWT
(Tapped Tapered Quarter Wave) This a double, single fold(s).

 

[Bill C]

Ok this TL build sounds really great but I 'm totaly lost so I have settled on what bjorno sent a ported box of 79.8L plus brace and driver with a port of 4"X8.66" however can I change the size of the port to a 3" one? I have a parabolic port I purchased it is 3"X 11" again with little knowledge as this thing is gigantic or can I use a 3" flaired port and with what length? I have settled on the ported box I just need to know how to calculate the port size. Also do you suff the whole box with material or just the walls? Thanks guys you have really been a help just don't mention a transmition line thing again >LOL<

 

[ODougbo]

Bill C.
80 liters (2.8 - 3.0 cubic foot) doesn't sound bad at all.
Stuffing? Some people say none at all!
However, You can line the walls if you feel the need to, maybe some carpet pad, fiberglass, cork board, etc. You'll have to listen to it for a while, and experiment.
Some hang a damping curtain behind the woofer.
An issue with typ speaker damping wool is it can lift and get caught up in the port (wool is usually for sealed boxes).

Just don't over stuff it!!

btw.....I'd print and hang onto the TL plans, might want to try that next year (or something)

btw II.... link to woofer: Goldwood GW-12PC-4 12" Heavy Duty Woofer 4 Ohm 290-332

 

[bjorno]

Hi All,

Oliver, Your OD-TL outline is great and deserves to be re-used by scaling to incorporate other drivers. I have already one very similar in use: an Audes 8” driver that sounds very good(Music). Thank you for the .pdf.. I will try to design a MathCad program that aromatically will calculate an enclosure by using the given T/S parameters that can be imported to MathCad: s 'Sections TL program' for quick plotting of reliable graphs.

ODougbo: I'm intrigued by the picture of the 'Double' T-TQWT you've submitted. Do you have a picture of the sub, finished? What's your impression of the sound, i.e. the HT performance versus Music.. after almost a Year of experience?

Bill C: Have a look at the picture: A 3” Port will chuff compared to a 4”:er . Here are two links to easy to understand port-calc programs you can use when evaluating different port types:

http://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm?id=31

Porting at Subwoofer-Builder.com


b

 

[Bill C]

Thanks Bjorno I will use a 4" port. One more question is the port flaired at both ends or just one with the other cutoff?

Thank all I'm acctually going to start.
Bill C