50W to a driver unit which claims 20W max will lead to a short and spectacular life. You have read the datasheet?
Yes I have read it 😀 but what I mean is that if you have 50 watt total power, most of it will be in the bass range. Like this--> a 20 hz signal will send more power tru a speaker than a 40hz signal or a 80 hz signal.
Correct me if i'm wrong
to the OP:
I don't really understand what you mean by '100W'.
ie are you filtering the pre amplifier signal or at the speaker itself ?
What is the signal - White / Pink Noise ?
How do you know it's '100W' ?
Not meaning to be over critical - I get that you want to filter out the bottom end as lots of energy there which won't be reproduced by the speaker and is a danger to it. I do the same thing on a different scale with bass guitar amplification to cut out the 'thumps' etc.
By 100 watts (think i'm going for 50 watts) I mean that I buy a amplifier board with 2×50 watt RMS with 2x100 watt peak. My tought was to filtering the pre amp signal.
The signal is music
By 100 watts (think i'm going for 50 watts) I mean that I buy a amplifier board with 2×50 watt RMS with 2x100 watt peak. My tought was to filtering the pre amp signal.
The signal is music
yes but you won't know how many Watts (W) you are generating.
You can put out a small signall from a powerful amplifier.
And if you turn the level up it will clip which will be bad for your speaker.
I'm sure that there are people here who can articulate this better than I can 🙂
As most power in music is in the bass and mid regions, you need the woofer to be able to handle the power. That means a 20W amp for a 20W bass speaker, and don't turn it up too much. You may be able to get away with a lower power tweeter.
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