If the drivers are receiving identical signals (likely, at LF) then for the purposes of the simulations they're wired in parallel to a voltage source capable representative of your amp.
In reality, each driver is pulling current from its own voltage source, but the voltages will be the same across each driver.
Chris
This is 2x DSC165 with passive radiator Dayton Audio DS215-PR 8" in WinIsd
Radiator is heavy enough with no mass added.
2x drivers works in around 14 to 20 liters FB around 41 to 47 Hz
F3 is around the same 41 to 47 Hz depending on volume/tuning
Radiator is heavy enough with no mass added.
2x drivers works in around 14 to 20 liters FB around 41 to 47 Hz
F3 is around the same 41 to 47 Hz depending on volume/tuning
Thanks WhiteDragon. Yeah even with my incomplete understanding of hornresp, when I was playing around last night it seemed that ~15L was where many of the "problems" started to resolve if I am looking for bass to extend comfortably below 50hz.
Hmm, HR apparently won't let us do dual drivers with a single PR, so a quick 10 L BR sim with the PR's 211.2 cm^2 (Sd) requiring a 260 cm long vent for Fb = Fs (ignore the resonant peaks).
![Dayton DCS305-4 [2] 35.7 Hz Fb_8' DS215-PR.PNG](https://www.diyaudio.com/community/attachments/dayton-dcs305-4-2-35-7-hz-fb_8-ds215-pr-png.1079496/ "Dayton DCS305-4 [2] 35.7 Hz Fb_8' DS215-PR.PNG")
As WhiteDragon already showed, WINisd also works fine with 2 drivers + 1 PR ... or any other combination for that matter 😉
trohright, I think you need to determine what you want to achieve, otherwise we will keep suggesting all sort of solutions in all directions.
What are the "must haves" or the boundaries?
Lower resonsnce frequency (Fs), Max volume, available power, SPL at Fs, DSP/Eq possibilities, Cost ........
trohright, I think you need to determine what you want to achieve, otherwise we will keep suggesting all sort of solutions in all directions.
What are the "must haves" or the boundaries?
Lower resonsnce frequency (Fs), Max volume, available power, SPL at Fs, DSP/Eq possibilities, Cost ........
I have a couple generic TDA7498E amplifier boards on hand, as well as a 600W, 32V DC power supply, so let's assume those are the starting point. One of the 7498s can drive two full-range channels, and I was thinking the other can drive two subwoofers. I'd still like to stay under 10L enclosure volume, but let's say 16L is an absolute max.
Playing around in hornresp, I had two Dayton DCS165-4 6.5" drivers (one per channel off the 7498) and one 5x8 PR in about 15L box and the curve looked promising. But maybe 2x 6.5" is overkill given my (small) enclosure goals?
I'd prioritize lower Fs and bass extension rather than higher output - I'll give up dB at 80hz if it buys me a few at 35hz
Potential design. Is this arrangement of drivers and PR valid? Anything special I need to do to model it in hornresp?
Don't see why not, though note when top and/or bottom mounted there's the 'sag' factor to be aware of.
Not sure, what with all the revisions of late, so best to ask here.
Not sure, what with all the revisions of late, so best to ask here.
For some reason, the diagram rotated 90 degrees when I attached here. Those drivers aren't on the top/bottom, they're on the sides.
I did post my question to the hornresp superthread, and it seems the overall model is valid. Now I just need to figure out how to tweak the curve
One way is to build your own thing from scratch. Another is to buy an existing BT speaker and modify it to meet your requirements (up to taking everything out of the original shell and installing it in your own enclosure). I was looking to do the latter when I purchased the Mifa Wildbox, but the damned thing sounds so good (with a bit of EQ) and is waterproof too, so I didn't bother to continue with that project. Bass down only to 50 Hz though.
At first it seemed like you needed a larger box.
But around 15L is about right.
I dont have the specs for the Radiator you were using for the sim.
To flatten that out I can only assume the tuning needs to be higher.
So if no weight is being added, then mechanically the PR is already heavy enough.
Same thing happened when I did a sim. The 8" passive I used was heavy enough.
I wouldnt worry about making it picture perfect flat in the sim.
in real world the bass will behave slightly different.
Or likely most will add a little EQ when listening.
Or if you need a passive where you want to control tuning
likely use 2 smaller passive radiators that need weight added.
I liked the idea of one radiator. Its why I just used a single larger radiator
at 8". and seems close to your idea as well using a 5x8"