The top part of the enclosure needs a panel brace as the dowel spine cannot run through the compression driver. This panel ties together the sides and top of the enclosure, as well as to the dowel spine.
Started out with some measurements
Roughed out
And finished
The top of the brace glues directly to the top and the CLD treatment will go around and clear the brace.
I made the opening to accommodate a CD with up to a 6" diameter magnet should I ever want to try a different unit.
I will also integrate a sorbothane base for the CD to rest on once installed.
I also finished the port module, this assembly is screwed into the enclosure and fully disassemblable from inside the enclosure for easy port tuning changes.
Started out with some measurements
Roughed out
And finished
The top of the brace glues directly to the top and the CLD treatment will go around and clear the brace.
I made the opening to accommodate a CD with up to a 6" diameter magnet should I ever want to try a different unit.
I will also integrate a sorbothane base for the CD to rest on once installed.
I also finished the port module, this assembly is screwed into the enclosure and fully disassemblable from inside the enclosure for easy port tuning changes.
Attached the bottom panels on last night, this involved gluing on the bottom two layers, one which creates a flange and the very bottom which creates a bezel to flush mount the removable panel.
I still need to add the threaded inserts to attach the panel, the dowel spine will also attach to the center of the panel.
I still need to add the threaded inserts to attach the panel, the dowel spine will also attach to the center of the panel.
Worked from home today and got a lot done between phone meetings and emails!
Started last night by doing the final glue-in for the compression driver brace
I also cut a disk to fit inside the top layer brace to center the top dowel brace receiver, this way the dowel is perfectly centered at the top connection point
Here the dowel spine is installed and centered with the discs, all glued in place
Dowel spine as it comes out the bottom, here I'm using a transfer punch to mark its location on the removable bottom
Punch transferred
And brass insert installed
I installed more brass inserts around the flange and did all the fabrication on the removable bottom
I also added the CD support which loads up the CD/horn assembly on a sorbothane pad once the horn is tightened down
Started last night by doing the final glue-in for the compression driver brace
I also cut a disk to fit inside the top layer brace to center the top dowel brace receiver, this way the dowel is perfectly centered at the top connection point
Here the dowel spine is installed and centered with the discs, all glued in place
Dowel spine as it comes out the bottom, here I'm using a transfer punch to mark its location on the removable bottom
Punch transferred
And brass insert installed
I installed more brass inserts around the flange and did all the fabrication on the removable bottom
I also added the CD support which loads up the CD/horn assembly on a sorbothane pad once the horn is tightened down
And one of the last steps, installing the top!
I added quite a few additional dowels to hold the top on
Even the CD brace got some dowels
Test fit, dowels all line up
Now to add the CLD treatment to the top panel, this is the CLD panel I made earlier, 1/4" Baltic birch, and 1/8" sorbothane pad
This glue works well so long the CLD isn't structural (like holding the baffle into an enclosure)
BB panel glued to the sorbothane and trimmed
Glue applied to top, note the masking tape to keep the wood glue area clean
Tape removed
And finished, to add a little security two screws keep the panel in place with sorbothane washers under the steel washer to isolate them from the panel. These were overkill but I didn't want anything to happen
And top gets glued on and clamped with the force of Zeus's hand
View from the inside showing the CLD clearance around the CD brace
And showing the CLD clearance to the enclosure layer
A few more details
I relieved the back of the driver opening for the 8" using this great router bit
And the ports got a 3/4" round over, final sanding to come
And where things are at, almost there!
Thanks!
Javad
I added quite a few additional dowels to hold the top on
Even the CD brace got some dowels
Test fit, dowels all line up
Now to add the CLD treatment to the top panel, this is the CLD panel I made earlier, 1/4" Baltic birch, and 1/8" sorbothane pad
This glue works well so long the CLD isn't structural (like holding the baffle into an enclosure)
BB panel glued to the sorbothane and trimmed
Glue applied to top, note the masking tape to keep the wood glue area clean
Tape removed
And finished, to add a little security two screws keep the panel in place with sorbothane washers under the steel washer to isolate them from the panel. These were overkill but I didn't want anything to happen
And top gets glued on and clamped with the force of Zeus's hand
View from the inside showing the CLD clearance around the CD brace
And showing the CLD clearance to the enclosure layer
A few more details
I relieved the back of the driver opening for the 8" using this great router bit
And the ports got a 3/4" round over, final sanding to come
And where things are at, almost there!
Thanks!
Javad
Thank you! - and yes you are welcome over any time you're in the Bay Area, these will also be at MWAF this July.
Quick demo of the CLD treatment on the top, the mic doesn't do it justice, the untreated piece of wood could be part of a xylophone, the treated panel is very dead, unfortunately the mic picks up reflections in the garage but if you listen close you can really hear it:
https://youtu.be/c9yk7IiNbcY
https://youtu.be/c9yk7IiNbcY
Javad,
Cabinets came together very nicely (not surprised given the quality of your work 🙂)
The CLD video is interesting - the untreated panel definitely sings more.
You have very cute helpers! Hope they are enjoying your hobby also. 🙂
Cabinets came together very nicely (not surprised given the quality of your work 🙂)
The CLD video is interesting - the untreated panel definitely sings more.
You have very cute helpers! Hope they are enjoying your hobby also. 🙂
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Thanks Javad. I'm from the bay area and we have exchanged messages in the past. Hopefully we can meet and discuss at some point. Did you go to Burning Amp last year? I missed it.
Btw, where did you source that large piece of sorbathane from?
Ahh yes we should definitely get together, would love to have you over in in San Ramon.
Yes I did was a good event, very little speaker building there but there were 2 or 3 others, I exhibited my Stance speakers.
McMaster has a god selection, thanks!
Javad
Ok...whew, done with most of the stressful finish work!
But first some wood filler for the few gaps that did make it through, found some famowood that matches very nicely.
So I decided to move the binding post location, originally I was going to mount them higher up the enclosure above the port module, but after staring at it for a while I decided it would look cool to do a recessed round area in line with the ports. That meant modifying the port module base plate a little, no biggie. I cut the center out, now there are two base plates left and right, each located and held down with one dowel and 4 screws. Now I have an opening for the binding posts to pass though.
Location of binding post recess, 3.5" diameter
Router template held down with double sided tape
Recess made, now marking for binding post locations, I'm using a pair each for the CD and mid-basses in case I want to do these active now or later
Aaaand, another step I've been dreading as the chance of disaster is high, but my super sharp 1" round over oozes confidence...
And wala, really like how it turned out and how integrated the top panel looks with the baffle
Next step is to mount the drivers in one cabinet, measure the drivers and start working on the XO, once I'm done tuning the speakers then I'll take everything out and do the finish.
Thanks!
Javad
But first some wood filler for the few gaps that did make it through, found some famowood that matches very nicely.
So I decided to move the binding post location, originally I was going to mount them higher up the enclosure above the port module, but after staring at it for a while I decided it would look cool to do a recessed round area in line with the ports. That meant modifying the port module base plate a little, no biggie. I cut the center out, now there are two base plates left and right, each located and held down with one dowel and 4 screws. Now I have an opening for the binding posts to pass though.
Location of binding post recess, 3.5" diameter
Router template held down with double sided tape
Recess made, now marking for binding post locations, I'm using a pair each for the CD and mid-basses in case I want to do these active now or later
Aaaand, another step I've been dreading as the chance of disaster is high, but my super sharp 1" round over oozes confidence...
And wala, really like how it turned out and how integrated the top panel looks with the baffle
Next step is to mount the drivers in one cabinet, measure the drivers and start working on the XO, once I'm done tuning the speakers then I'll take everything out and do the finish.
Thanks!
Javad
Outstanding craftmanship!!
Looking forward to read how these sound and measure.
Thanks for bringing us along.
Cheers
Looking forward to read how these sound and measure.
Thanks for bringing us along.
Cheers
Well Javad, you've executed the risky maneuver to perfection. That was a big a** round-over bit. 🙂
Well done!
Well done!
Had a sanding party last night after everyone went to bed, all wood filler (minimal) work is complete so time to smooth this wood out.
Initially rough layers got 60 grit to remove any unevenness, then every surface fot 120 and then a final pass with 220. I'm still not 110% on finish but I believe I'll be using Crystalac then a final 400 grit.
Here is where things stand, baby but smooth and the grain is really starting to pop!
Next step is I'm going to do final assembly on one cabinet so I can start tuning the XO.
Thanks!
Javad
Initially rough layers got 60 grit to remove any unevenness, then every surface fot 120 and then a final pass with 220. I'm still not 110% on finish but I believe I'll be using Crystalac then a final 400 grit.
Here is where things stand, baby but smooth and the grain is really starting to pop!
Next step is I'm going to do final assembly on one cabinet so I can start tuning the XO.
Thanks!
Javad
Nicest PA mains I've seen 🙂
I bet the Faital Pro marketing department would love to showcase the results.
I bet the Faital Pro marketing department would love to showcase the results.
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