The heater voltage for the rectifier tube shall allways be connected as you have done to get 5V AC.
The load (your std.by switch) can be connected as you have done, or connected to the CT of the 5V.
SB.
The load (your std.by switch) can be connected as you have done, or connected to the CT of the 5V.
SB.
Thanks Svein and Seel! I was curious when rewriting the schematic... I've written the schematic as CRCLC, so I'll wire it as CLCRC... Wow! I think this is finally it! Time to put it all together. I'll do a simulation in PSUD2. Thanks guys!
PSUD2 Simulations:
CLCRCRC: @ 160mA tap: B+ = 402V, Ripple=0.095V
@ 5mA tap: B+ = 401V, Ripple=0.043V
CRCLCRC: @ 160mA tap: B+ = 402V, Ripple=0.025V
@ 5mA tap: B+ = 401V, Ripple=0.012V
It seems the CLCRCRC has 3x the ripple as the CRCLCRC. That's quite a difference...
CLCRCRC: @ 160mA tap: B+ = 402V, Ripple=0.095V
@ 5mA tap: B+ = 401V, Ripple=0.043V
CRCLCRC: @ 160mA tap: B+ = 402V, Ripple=0.025V
@ 5mA tap: B+ = 401V, Ripple=0.012V
It seems the CLCRCRC has 3x the ripple as the CRCLCRC. That's quite a difference...
Attachments
Run Time
Just an FYI. I have about 300 hours run-time on my build so far. All voltages stable. Excellent amp.
Just an FYI. I have about 300 hours run-time on my build so far. All voltages stable. Excellent amp.
Hi Scott, I finally got the power supply to work after making the aforementioned changes. Thanks for all your help. Once I turned on the power, within seconds I witnessed something that I had not seen in 35 years, as I would peep through the vents of my grandfathers stereo console - I saw the orange glow of the heaters on the 5U4GB tube! The voltage was slowly ramping up, and after 30seconds, I turned on the standby switch, and the voltage rose faster until it finally leveled off. It was only a no load voltage, but I was so glad that it worked smoothly. When I shut everything down, everything discharge slowly and smoothly. I was glad that I used the 340ohm bleed resistors (2 parallel 680-ohm/3W MOX R), otherwise those 440VAC ASC were holding an indefinite amount of charge, even with the power off.
I've soldered the tagboard too, mounted all the switches, pots, terminals. I am in the process of just soldering the wiring to the tubes, OPT, and I/O terminals.... I am so glad that the PSU works!
I'll be using a Sovtek 6N1P and Genelex Gold Lion KT88 with James 6123HS OPT. You guys will be the first to know! Here are pix of my progress... I want to triple check my wiring once the soldering is complete... Almost there!
I've soldered the tagboard too, mounted all the switches, pots, terminals. I am in the process of just soldering the wiring to the tubes, OPT, and I/O terminals.... I am so glad that the PSU works!
I'll be using a Sovtek 6N1P and Genelex Gold Lion KT88 with James 6123HS OPT. You guys will be the first to know! Here are pix of my progress... I want to triple check my wiring once the soldering is complete... Almost there!
Attachments
I find that my amp also discharges slowly without a bleeder resistor. I didn't really see the need for a bleeder resistor, of course if you don't have any tubes connected that's a different story 🙂
Glenn
Glenn
I was wondering if it would be possible to make a parallel SE amp out of this design? I was looking at Angela's "Super 6V6" design, and it doesn't look like it's that much more from a component standpoint.
Angela Super Single-Ended 6V6 Guitar Amp Project
Probably need a bigger PT, but is the OT up to the task? I'm using a Hammond 1628SEA, which is rated for 30 watts.
Any idea of how much power would be gained by adding one tube?
Thanks
Glenn
Angela Super Single-Ended 6V6 Guitar Amp Project
Probably need a bigger PT, but is the OT up to the task? I'm using a Hammond 1628SEA, which is rated for 30 watts.
Any idea of how much power would be gained by adding one tube?
Thanks
Glenn
Bleeders are a safety issue. The caps will discharge partially while the filaments are still hot, but may retain sufficient charge without a defined discharge path to be dangerous.
340R would be small for B+ and would draw considerable power. It looks like they are 340K by the color codes, but it is difficult to see if the third band is yellow.
340R would be small for B+ and would draw considerable power. It looks like they are 340K by the color codes, but it is difficult to see if the third band is yellow.
Quick question: do you hear the difference when you switch between 470 ohm and 560 ohm for cathode resistor ?
D.
D.
Guys,
Pin 9 of 6N1P is the shielding. Do I have to put it to ground for better separation?
Thanks
Albert
Pin 9 of 6N1P is the shielding. Do I have to put it to ground for better separation?
Thanks
Albert
I cannot tell the difference and I have been using my amp a few years now and I have been switching between 470 and 560 for cathode.
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