Scottmoose said:
You're welcome!
True, and in the decades since I checked, computer aided everything has really advanced finish coatings variety/quality: http://www.ussteel.com/corp/sheet/cr/index.htm
scottwilko said:
Every material has its own mode of natural vibration and depends also on size and mass to its tune.
Of course steel has a higher resonance mode than wood or mdf. As with wood you may need reinforcement to get higher resonance frequencies on certain bigger panels… well you get the idea, it may ring like a bell with some specific frequencies.
It will resonate, as you say, like anyhing. The trick with materials is to push them outside the cabinet's main passband. With an FR driver and ~10ga, it's unlikely to be a problem. GM's the man to discuss metals for enclosures with though... my knowledge is very limited, from working on armour plate design for 19th century warships & my sword casting / forging. Ron might have some views too -he's working on metals at present, albeit in a very different area.
This could be a very interesting discussion indeed, & I for one am looking forward to it as we're in an area that hasn't had much exposure / been explored by many DIY speaker enthusiasts.
This could be a very interesting discussion indeed, & I for one am looking forward to it as we're in an area that hasn't had much exposure / been explored by many DIY speaker enthusiasts.
Well, I've used electrical distribution boxes including a few large floor standing ones and the only major downside for consumer or DIYing I know of is the weight. Indeed, I believe it was B&W that was touting cast alum. cabs on one or more of their models not too many years ago and seems to me I've seen some high end speakers made from various types of metal recently, but I didn't bother to save the links since they're 'preaching to the choir' with me and historically folks dismiss this type of construction out-of-hand when I've mentioned it for whatever reason, so what's the point?
A metal forming brake isn't any more costly than woodworking tools and with the plethora of adhesive systems available today there's bound to be at least one cheap, easy to use one available to the general public. Really, you don't even need the brake since you can buy small sheet metal or alum. angle stock to bond to flat sheets, which can also be used to brace large panels if you're out of BB ply or similar scrap.
As for 'ringing like a bell', this is exactly what you want it to do since it will place the cab's Fs well above its passband, ergo can't be energized as long as all the drivers are isolated with gaskets or similar.
A metal forming brake isn't any more costly than woodworking tools and with the plethora of adhesive systems available today there's bound to be at least one cheap, easy to use one available to the general public. Really, you don't even need the brake since you can buy small sheet metal or alum. angle stock to bond to flat sheets, which can also be used to brace large panels if you're out of BB ply or similar scrap.
As for 'ringing like a bell', this is exactly what you want it to do since it will place the cab's Fs well above its passband, ergo can't be energized as long as all the drivers are isolated with gaskets or similar.
Sorry Greg, that was something dredged out of (very) hazy memory about circulating eddy currents etc. Thanks for the correction.
Back in the 1980s, Celestion had the SL600 with aerolam (aerospace honeycomb aluminium) which had a heck of a reputation, Not to my taste -they needed at least 70watts before they're come to life, but you could hear the advantages of the construction.
I like the idea of the metal cabinets, although I've never had the opportunity to make one. The benefits seem pretty conclusive -you never know; the time may well be neigh for its wider acceptance. Hope springs eternal.
Back in the 1980s, Celestion had the SL600 with aerolam (aerospace honeycomb aluminium) which had a heck of a reputation, Not to my taste -they needed at least 70watts before they're come to life, but you could hear the advantages of the construction.
I like the idea of the metal cabinets, although I've never had the opportunity to make one. The benefits seem pretty conclusive -you never know; the time may well be neigh for its wider acceptance. Hope springs eternal.
Well, not sure it's a 'correction' till we get to the bottom of it. I mean I used CRS that was designed for electrical apps, regular HRSPO or even CRS steel designed for other apps may have issues I'm not aware of.
I would like to see metal cabs become a viable option for DIYers though . Then again, it would be one less thing for folks to er, debate.
I would like to see metal cabs become a viable option for DIYers though . Then again, it would be one less thing for folks to er, debate.
my reasons for making them out of steel was so that i could unbolt one side wall to make changes, and my mum and dad didn't like the way that my original pair sounded like they were coming from a box,so steel i thought , i tried to research it but i could not find even one picture . but a word of warning ,if you have kids they will need outriggers because these are heavy 45 to 50 kilos
An experiment of mine in explosion proof cast alloy:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98948&highlight=
These were abandoned when I learnt that it was the worst possible shape. They make good speaker stands at least.
The thing I like about steel is you can bend it. Wood is organic yet difficult to work in anything except square forms, steel is not organic yet is easily shaped into flowing curves.
I'm picturing a curved chang with a centre chamber made of one piece of steel with 2 inch radius bends. Plywood sides, Back, top and bottom made of a single strip of metal slotted into a groove in the side panels. Brushed finish on the steel to echo the grain of the wood, mirror finish gloss on the wood to echo the metal. Oh yeah.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98948&highlight=
These were abandoned when I learnt that it was the worst possible shape. They make good speaker stands at least.
The thing I like about steel is you can bend it. Wood is organic yet difficult to work in anything except square forms, steel is not organic yet is easily shaped into flowing curves.
I'm picturing a curved chang with a centre chamber made of one piece of steel with 2 inch radius bends. Plywood sides, Back, top and bottom made of a single strip of metal slotted into a groove in the side panels. Brushed finish on the steel to echo the grain of the wood, mirror finish gloss on the wood to echo the metal. Oh yeah.
Hmmm
Had not seriously thought of steel - despite my dad being a (retired) boilermaker by trade
Go figure.
Steel is dang heavy though, or are we talkin' pretty thin plate?.. Could work for smaller enclosures I guess - frugalHorn anyone? With a bit of prep and care, a nice auto or powder finish could be used.
Cheers
Raymond
Had not seriously thought of steel - despite my dad being a (retired) boilermaker by trade
Go figure.Steel is dang heavy though, or are we talkin' pretty thin plate?.. Could work for smaller enclosures I guess - frugalHorn anyone? With a bit of prep and care, a nice auto or powder finish could be used.
Cheers
Raymond
wouldn't any type of magnetic alloy have some undesirable affects on the radiated flux pattern of big-a$$ motored drivers that tend to be used in BLH designs, particularly those with such close tolerances as say the Busch, Frugal and Ron Clarks A126, to name a few?
As to not being able to "bend" wood, any experienced luthier or boat builder would possibly be inclined to educate on that subject. It can certainly be done, but CCM. (curves cost money)
As to not being able to "bend" wood, any experienced luthier or boat builder would possibly be inclined to educate on that subject. It can certainly be done, but CCM. (curves cost money)
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