One would have thought that a voltage regulator with very low noise would not worry too much about its smoothing caps. Well it isn't so. I initially used some fairly cheap but serviceable Panasonic 10,000uF TS-HA caps. Listening to the BA-2 with these in the regulator for the front end I was initially pleased with the overall clarity improvements, however, turning to some of my favourite music such Healy-Hutchinson carol piece I was struck by the lack of comfortable warmth and the rather flattend perspective of the orchestra. Could it be the caps. I had a nagging feeling I should have used my favourite Mundorf AG in the first place but how could caps this far back from the output make such a difference? Out went the 10,000 and in came the 4700uF Mundorfs. Well the difference is very significant. Flattened soundstage and I have to say somewhat flattened musical images have much more depth. Strings now can be heard with more warmth and depth positioned more clearly behind the brass for example. Could it be 10,000 to 4700uF made the dirrerence. Well possibly but I have noted the characteristic of these Panasonics before and for me they don't sound as good as the Mundorfs, which is a shame really because they are a lot cheaper.
Chris
Chris
Panasonic caps lack some bass & warmth but are good in mids & highs + very reliabable. I don't know the Mundorfs AG but it's boutique and "dressed" for audiopurposes, so us the price 😉 My experience is if big caps aren't needed don't use them, more speed and less heavy sound. What about the burn-in proces, did you gave the TS-HA time for that ?
Caps are like spice to me.
Caps are like spice to me.

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Did you check the PSU rail stability before and after the mods?
Did you check the amplifier stability before and after the mods?
Did you check the amplifier stability before and after the mods?
Yes, plenty of burn-in time. The Mundorfs don't always do it for me. I tried a 10,000uF 25V on several projects and it always sounded constrained, lacking the usual openess I associate with Mundorfs.
Yes, there is something addictive abouts caps.
Yes, there is something addictive abouts caps.
Did you check the PSU rail stability before and after the mods?
Did you check the amplifier stability before and after the mods?
Can you take me through those steps please Andrew?
Chris
Stick a scope on the power rail.
Start applying some horrible signals to the amplifier. Does the PSU rail react?
Start applying some horrible signals to the amplifier. Does the PSU rail react?
Horrible signals to the amp--are we talking Stockhausen--and what is the reaction I should be looking for on the scope?
Chris
Chris
Loud music or quiet squarewaves, or loud filtered squarewaves or etc.
The PSU should show a tiny rounded sawtooth ripple at quiescent.
This ripple should increase in value, but not in shape, as the output current goes up towards maximum.
The PSU should show a tiny rounded sawtooth ripple at quiescent.
This ripple should increase in value, but not in shape, as the output current goes up towards maximum.
One would have thought that a voltage regulator with very low noise would not worry too much about its smoothing caps. Well it isn't so. I initially used some fairly cheap but serviceable Panasonic 10,000uF TS-HA caps. Listening to the BA-2 with these in the regulator for the front end I was initially pleased with the overall clarity improvements, however, turning to some of my favourite music such Healy-Hutchinson carol piece I was struck by the lack of comfortable warmth and the rather flattend perspective of the orchestra. Could it be the caps. I had a nagging feeling I should have used my favourite Mundorf AG in the first place but how could caps this far back from the output make such a difference? Out went the 10,000 and in came the 4700uF Mundorfs. Well the difference is very significant. Flattened soundstage and I have to say somewhat flattened musical images have much more depth. Strings now can be heard with more warmth and depth positioned more clearly behind the brass for example. Could it be 10,000 to 4700uF made the dirrerence. Well possibly but I have noted the characteristic of these Panasonics before and for me they don't sound as good as the Mundorfs, which is a shame really because they are a lot cheaper.
Chris
Hi,
From my own cap-swapping experiments:
The 10,000uF (mundorf AGl, nichicon KG) sounded better than their corresponding 4700uF or 6800uF versions.
My favorites:
1) Mundorf AG
2) Panasonic TS-HA
3) DNM/BHC 2 pole slit foil (very smooth warm sound; many will prefer this)
4) Nichicon KG
Hi,
From my own cap-swapping experiments:
My favorites:
3) DNM/BHC 2 pole slit foil (very smooth warm sound; many will prefer this)
Hadn't come across this one before; it certainly looks interesting.
Thanks.
DNM slit foil cap
The 10,000uF/80V version is 35mm x 80mm. A bit tall if case clearance is low 🙂
DNM-designed Capacitors
Hadn't come across this one before; it certainly looks interesting.
Thanks.
The 10,000uF/80V version is 35mm x 80mm. A bit tall if case clearance is low 🙂
DNM-designed Capacitors
BHC 2-pole Slit Foils are very good, to my ears they sound much better than the Mundorf AG which in comparison sound very slow.
I tried the 10.000μF/63v versions of the above and gave them >100h burn in time.
Until i tried 2X4700μF Epcos Sicorels..
I tried the 10.000μF/63v versions of the above and gave them >100h burn in time.
Until i tried 2X4700μF Epcos Sicorels..
I also used BHC caps until I heard Jensen 4 poles.... these are fast, transparent and provide uge resolution inthe high freqs. 🙂
Manamanam,
which Sikorels - B41550?
Anyone tried the "Super Thru" Nichicon's in comparison to the KGs, or the "Elna for Audio" cap (so called Starget?) in comparison to say, the Nichi KGs?
The "exotic" caps are interesting, particularly when you mix'n'match them in pre/power amp C-R-C filters.
which Sikorels - B41550?
Anyone tried the "Super Thru" Nichicon's in comparison to the KGs, or the "Elna for Audio" cap (so called Starget?) in comparison to say, the Nichi KGs?
The "exotic" caps are interesting, particularly when you mix'n'match them in pre/power amp C-R-C filters.
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