I redid Ty's "for dummies". Readings where they should be- rectifier tube/ss( not as) switch made no difference, same readings either way.
Put tubes back in, nothing. Power tubes glowed, rec and 12at7 didn't. I will let it rest and I will reseat 12at7, it is very tight-hard to get in.
I will take readings L1 to ground.
Is there another B+ point on pcb?
Put tubes back in, nothing. Power tubes glowed, rec and 12at7 didn't. I will let it rest and I will reseat 12at7, it is very tight-hard to get in.
I will take readings L1 to ground.
Is there another B+ point on pcb?
There is another power point. R4, lead nearest the edge of the board.
Seems there is no power either at L1 or R4. With or with out rec switch.
Tonight when I repeated Ty's check list there was power at rec socket. Pins 4and6 read 417 v.
Seems there is no power either at L1 or R4. With or with out rec switch.
Tonight when I repeated Ty's check list there was power at rec socket. Pins 4and6 read 417 v.
I don't know.
If your rectifier tube were bad, you should still have power from the hexfreds.
If it were me, I would remove the hexfreds at this stage if only to concentrate on one thing at a time. Mine were blown and they have caused trouble for other people. You could remove them and check them.
I don't know why your rectifier heaters are not heating up if you have 5v across them.
You could check the resistance of the heater filaments on the pins of the tube itself when you have it taken out.
Mine reads 1.2ohms between pins 2 and pin8.
If your rectifier tube were bad, you should still have power from the hexfreds.
If it were me, I would remove the hexfreds at this stage if only to concentrate on one thing at a time. Mine were blown and they have caused trouble for other people. You could remove them and check them.
I don't know why your rectifier heaters are not heating up if you have 5v across them.
You could check the resistance of the heater filaments on the pins of the tube itself when you have it taken out.
Mine reads 1.2ohms between pins 2 and pin8.
No. It shouldn't. If you look at the schematic, C1 just goes between the HV line and ground.
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May or may not be relavant, when I removed C1 the little connection "tubes" between top and bottom traces came out with C1 leads.
Oh yes. I think it might be. I would have to look at the pub layout diagram but it's quite possible that that broke the HV trace.
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Can you solder 2 bits of resistor lead or wire into the 2 holes? They are may be used as vias or links.
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Breaking that trace will also break the traces going to the heater filaments. It looks from a photo that they might be elevated at that point.
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Installed wires in C1. Gave unit power. Still zero at L1 and R4.
Preamp ( nasty socket, tube sits 3/16 the up) and power tubes glow.
Rec tube didn't. Checked resistance across 2 and8. Zero, with two meters.
Hexfords are D1 and2, correct? You couldn' say something like R4 or R14, something easy to get to. 🙂
Preamp ( nasty socket, tube sits 3/16 the up) and power tubes glow.
Rec tube didn't. Checked resistance across 2 and8. Zero, with two meters.
Hexfords are D1 and2, correct? You couldn' say something like R4 or R14, something easy to get to. 🙂
I was sure that was the problem. Did you solder both sides of the board at the C1 holes? The through-hole plating was removed. Any sign of breaks in the traces on either side of the board?
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Not sure which you are referring to.
Looks to me like I need another rectifier tube. Boo, whistles.
I haven't removed D1 and 2 . Reccommended?
Looks to me like I need another rectifier tube. Boo, whistles.
I haven't removed D1 and 2 . Reccommended?
You didn't jumper across the c1 contacts did you? Can you send me a photo to post?
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Co you have any DC voltage at pin 8 or pin 2 of the rectifier when turned on with all tubes in?
I will check.
I believe my rectifier tube is cooked. Some silver material from the top is missing and there are droplets on the side of the tube. Plus, there is no resistance, two meters, or continuity also two meters.
I ordered a new one, JJ gz34. Two day delivery. Cheaper than going local.
Plus ordered some tubes for rolling when amp is sorted out. Kt77s. NOS.
Kidding. JJs.
I believe my rectifier tube is cooked. Some silver material from the top is missing and there are droplets on the side of the tube. Plus, there is no resistance, two meters, or continuity also two meters.
I ordered a new one, JJ gz34. Two day delivery. Cheaper than going local.
Plus ordered some tubes for rolling when amp is sorted out. Kt77s. NOS.
Kidding. JJs.
Assembled the amp again. Tubes in. Power tubes glow.
B+ at R4 reads zero.
Rectifier pin 4 reads 4.3, pins 4 and 6 read 416-7.
New tubes are within 40 miles of me from Memphis. By Friday?
B+ at R4 reads zero.
Rectifier pin 4 reads 4.3, pins 4 and 6 read 416-7.
New tubes are within 40 miles of me from Memphis. By Friday?
You could put a jumper on the ss rectifier SW block and activate ss rectification if you don't have a rectifier tube.
I put a bridge at SW1. With tubes out I tested voltages. Ground to SW1 showed 1217.
I stopped.
New tubes are out for delivery.
I stopped.
New tubes are out for delivery.
Finally
New tubes arrived. Warmed rectifier to house temp, plugged it in,I played I'm So Glad by Cream. And I am.
Only got to play the one song - my wife works from home and she was on a conference call.
Have some buzz.
Took readings for B+, at L1 it is 426. At B4 zip(?).
I will take readings at R17 and 27.
THANK YOU.
New tubes arrived. Warmed rectifier to house temp, plugged it in,I played I'm So Glad by Cream. And I am.
Only got to play the one song - my wife works from home and she was on a conference call.
Have some buzz.
Took readings for B+, at L1 it is 426. At B4 zip(?).
I will take readings at R17 and 27.
THANK YOU.