Agent-00-Behave said:To those who know him:
Another Hobby giveaway 😀
Job well done!Can't wait to come over and test it out!
(Mental note: get "Tuning Beats" from a friend)
P.S. If we break it, you could use the experience to create a second one a lot faster, no?![]()
Jurgen?
tuning beats.. i was thinking more in the line of a few good movies with nice bass..
you mean, If YOU break it
and yes, I play with toy soldiers

By The way,
I dare you
, try to break a 1cm thick polyester sphere (not using any powertools that is..)
I dare you

I did a design of the feet for the orb, would anyone be willing to give his/her thoughts?
currently they measure 67mm long and a diameter of 30mm the bottom of the sphere is then 3cm from the ground..
the feet will be cast in bronze.. my father has all the tools to melt and pour bronze. this should provide some interesting pictures 😎
(or severe burns..
)
thanks
currently they measure 67mm long and a diameter of 30mm the bottom of the sphere is then 3cm from the ground..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
the feet will be cast in bronze.. my father has all the tools to melt and pour bronze. this should provide some interesting pictures 😎
(or severe burns..

thanks
some more pictures
today we finished the glassing process..
and started at a first rough sanding using a disk sander
the finished result looks kinda like our moon, or Mars using the correct lighting..
after removing the mold, the recessing detail comes out nicely.. i will need a lot of filler to make it all look nice
removing the styrophor ball proves to be very difficult, here you see us trying to melt it using a modified soldering gun.. works fairly well
I forgot to take a picture whan the styrphor was removed, but you can imagine what it looks like.. empty....
I know I really should not take a driver into a dusty work area, but I couldn't resist..
I only needed to sand a few imperfections, and the driver fits like a glove..
altough, some minor imperfections need to be filled..
looks wicked doesn't it
today we finished the glassing process..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and started at a first rough sanding using a disk sander
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
the finished result looks kinda like our moon, or Mars using the correct lighting..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
after removing the mold, the recessing detail comes out nicely.. i will need a lot of filler to make it all look nice
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
removing the styrophor ball proves to be very difficult, here you see us trying to melt it using a modified soldering gun.. works fairly well
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I forgot to take a picture whan the styrphor was removed, but you can imagine what it looks like.. empty....
I know I really should not take a driver into a dusty work area, but I couldn't resist..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I only needed to sand a few imperfections, and the driver fits like a glove..
altough, some minor imperfections need to be filled..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
looks wicked doesn't it

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
10 layers of 1mm glass matting, should give 1cm thickness, but measuring different spots tells me something between 13 and 18.. apparently we did not go all the way in some places..
anyway, my aim was 1cm, so it is just fine..
anyway, my aim was 1cm, so it is just fine..
Mat is sold by the ounce (Oz) here. Does this mean a 1mm is equivalent to 1 oz or 2 oz, do you know? I'm asking because I made some flared ports and used 2oz, 2oz, roving, 2oz, 2oz and that came out to about 1cm thick as well.
That must have been a lot of laying up, nice work.
That must have been a lot of laying up, nice work.
I really don't know..
I just went to a local shop that specializes in polyester and resins.
told them what i wanted, and they sent me home with 7 square meters of glass mat, and 10l of polyester..
i used all of it..
I just went to a local shop that specializes in polyester and resins.
told them what i wanted, and they sent me home with 7 square meters of glass mat, and 10l of polyester..
i used all of it..
filling and sanding
a long very boring process... getting it perfectly round..
not as easy as it might seem.. i keep finding bulges or pits..
a long very boring process... getting it perfectly round..
not as easy as it might seem.. i keep finding bulges or pits..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
slowly getting there
After a few filling and sanding sessions (three of them)
I sprayed my first layer of paint on it..
as expected, a lot of imperfections surfaced,
the paint needs to be sanded off, and the imperfections filled.
I would probably need to repeat this a few more times..
overall it starting to look very good..
the driver fits in perfectly for the moment..
does anyone have a good tip to seal the driver in the enclosure?
After a few filling and sanding sessions (three of them)
I sprayed my first layer of paint on it..
as expected, a lot of imperfections surfaced,
the paint needs to be sanded off, and the imperfections filled.
I would probably need to repeat this a few more times..
overall it starting to look very good..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
the driver fits in perfectly for the moment..
does anyone have a good tip to seal the driver in the enclosure?
For sealed subs I use a product called "blu-tack" by Bostic, it's a re-usable temporary adhesive normally used to put up posters ec on a wall. Nead it up into a thin "worm" and apply to driver mounting flange.
Better than Blu Tak is door draught excluder strip foam, adhesive backed on one side. Parts Express even sell a proper speaker version of it.
Rope caulking would make an excellent seal.
For a stand, what about a very short cylinder about 1/2 the diameter of the enclosure laying endwise on the floor. The ball could be set on it and you would be free to rotate the ball for best effects. You could make this from a short length of sonotube or PVC sewer pipe.
For a stand, what about a very short cylinder about 1/2 the diameter of the enclosure laying endwise on the floor. The ball could be set on it and you would be free to rotate the ball for best effects. You could make this from a short length of sonotube or PVC sewer pipe.
thanks guys..
blu-tack is known here as Pritt poster buddy.. and is the only thing I can get a hold of for the moment..
so I'm going for this at first, I can always change later..
stands are in production.. no means for adjusting though..
blu-tack is known here as Pritt poster buddy.. and is the only thing I can get a hold of for the moment..
so I'm going for this at first, I can always change later..
stands are in production.. no means for adjusting though..
slowly getting there
not much to say,
a lot of sanding and filling is slowly getting me somewhere
not much to say,
a lot of sanding and filling is slowly getting me somewhere
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
thanks,
for now i'm still using a Black&Decker mouse.
after the first two coats of paint I will start using 800 grit sandpaper. (wet sanding)
to get that 'special' finish..
for now i'm still using a Black&Decker mouse.
after the first two coats of paint I will start using 800 grit sandpaper. (wet sanding)
to get that 'special' finish..
Very nice! Have you considered getting some red viny computer cut like surface blood vessels and apply to look like a bloodshot eyeball? That would be removeable if you wanted later.
After that you could make a turntable stand full of sand for high performance that looks like a big bottle of Visine!
Transmission lines shaped like large Tylenol caplets might sound good. No edge diffraction issues, and presumably no listening headache. 😉
Please forgive my overactive imagination, and obsession with discomfort and painkillers. When I undertake manually intensive projects like yours nowadaze I have to take a lot of them.
The other suggestions are way over the top but I'm actually serious about the bloodshot eyeball effect.
After that you could make a turntable stand full of sand for high performance that looks like a big bottle of Visine!

Transmission lines shaped like large Tylenol caplets might sound good. No edge diffraction issues, and presumably no listening headache. 😉
Please forgive my overactive imagination, and obsession with discomfort and painkillers. When I undertake manually intensive projects like yours nowadaze I have to take a lot of them.
The other suggestions are way over the top but I'm actually serious about the bloodshot eyeball effect.
lol,
I had to google for Visine and Tylenol caplets before i knew that these are medicines..
still not sure what you mean tough??
I don't think that the misses is going to like a big bloody eyeball in our living room. not sure that I like it..
but yes, the proportions look just about right to make it into an eyeball.. never 'looked' at it that way 😉
I had to google for Visine and Tylenol caplets before i knew that these are medicines..
still not sure what you mean tough??
I don't think that the misses is going to like a big bloody eyeball in our living room. not sure that I like it..
but yes, the proportions look just about right to make it into an eyeball.. never 'looked' at it that way 😉
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