Hello all!
So my buddy went to the movies with his wife to se the Korean film "the parasite" - naturally he focused on the important things in the movie... i.e. what are those speakers in the living room?
It looks like a Onken 360 cabinet but extended upwards with a rectangular horn ending in what might be lowthers or something similar 6" or so with a phase plug.
Looks as a nice idea and inspirational (I collected the parts to start building some Onkens soon...) a larger 300hz horn might make the potential lobing issue (from the distance between the 15" and the horn) go away.
But - what are those
speakers!?
Happy friday,
Peter
So my buddy went to the movies with his wife to se the Korean film "the parasite" - naturally he focused on the important things in the movie... i.e. what are those speakers in the living room?
It looks like a Onken 360 cabinet but extended upwards with a rectangular horn ending in what might be lowthers or something similar 6" or so with a phase plug.
Looks as a nice idea and inspirational (I collected the parts to start building some Onkens soon...) a larger 300hz horn might make the potential lobing issue (from the distance between the 15" and the horn) go away.
But - what are those
Happy friday,
Peter
It's kind of a neat design. I have been tempted to build the Onkens described in the Hiraga article. But what to put on top? I have a pair of Altec 811 horns, but if I cross over at 1K or even 800Hz that will make three narrow lobes if you estimate the horn/woofer distance as 20 inches or 0,5 meters. With 300 Hz you will get just one nice big lobe i.e. better blending in my estimation. Check out this freeware to calculate lobes. Other neat stuff too.
Tolvan Data
Since it is a Korean film perhaps the design is Korean?
Perhaps I might make a top which is removable but sized the same, cut from the same plywood (to make the grain follow) but removable for trying out other horns...
It looks a bit like the Edgar horn in shape except for the big throat, more like the Beauhorn on the side or something. I wonder how it measures!
Tolvan Data
Since it is a Korean film perhaps the design is Korean?
Perhaps I might make a top which is removable but sized the same, cut from the same plywood (to make the grain follow) but removable for trying out other horns...
It looks a bit like the Edgar horn in shape except for the big throat, more like the Beauhorn on the side or something. I wonder how it measures!
Such a movie set. The only knick knacks and clutter in the room are Cognac bottles and some glasses, and some slippers on the floor! I wish my home could look like a hotel room too. 
You can design a tractrix upper horn of any dimension using spreadsheet on Volvotreter’s website. Those can sound exceptional with a good powerful 5in full range. I used 5MR450NDY and had a 105dB/2.83v horn. Goes down to 600Hz. So almost any bass assist can work. Needs to be a pro driver to get 100dB sensitivity.
Ideally a front loaded bass horn to match the sensitivity. What I like is that because of the high sensitivity, cone barely moves (40um for 90dB listening level). So distortion is very very low. Great sound from full range tractrix. Highly recommended.
You can design a tractrix upper horn of any dimension using spreadsheet on Volvotreter’s website. Those can sound exceptional with a good powerful 5in full range. I used 5MR450NDY and had a 105dB/2.83v horn. Goes down to 600Hz. So almost any bass assist can work. Needs to be a pro driver to get 100dB sensitivity.
Ideally a front loaded bass horn to match the sensitivity. What I like is that because of the high sensitivity, cone barely moves (40um for 90dB listening level). So distortion is very very low. Great sound from full range tractrix. Highly recommended.
Yes, check out the rest of the house - I sure would like one too to put my speakers in! Inside the House From Bong Joon Ho’s Parasite | Architectural Digest
Interesting - i have not looked at the 5MR450NDY before, seems reasonably priced too. But it looks a little bit wild over 2K. Did you measure it with the horn? And did you put something on top? I seem to recall a rule of thumb saying "a horn should not be used for more than four octaves or it will color" or something like that. Does not seem to apply to many two-ways with compression driver and 15" that seem to work well though?
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/294-2704--prv-audio-5mr450-ndy-4-specifications.pdf
My Lowther EX2 are not exactly ruler flat - I use some baffle step compensation i soldered together between the preamp and poweramp. I plan to fool around some more with it when I get my measurement setup going good. But it seems few drivers offer high efficiency and flat response...
Do you think a 5" with horn is a better option than compression driver from your experience?
Interesting - i have not looked at the 5MR450NDY before, seems reasonably priced too. But it looks a little bit wild over 2K. Did you measure it with the horn? And did you put something on top? I seem to recall a rule of thumb saying "a horn should not be used for more than four octaves or it will color" or something like that. Does not seem to apply to many two-ways with compression driver and 15" that seem to work well though?
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/294-2704--prv-audio-5mr450-ndy-4-specifications.pdf
My Lowther EX2 are not exactly ruler flat - I use some baffle step compensation i soldered together between the preamp and poweramp. I plan to fool around some more with it when I get my measurement setup going good. But it seems few drivers offer high efficiency and flat response...
Do you think a 5" with horn is a better option than compression driver from your experience?
It is hard to see what driver, but it is earily familair to a stock FE206 with phase pugs installed. Small front horn and Onken loaded rear. The ghost of the frame is what is pushing me to that guess.
Hard to get real bass if it is FE206 (or most lowthers — i am working on a simialr miniOnken for the PM6A).
dave
Hard to get real bass if it is FE206 (or most lowthers — i am working on a simialr miniOnken for the PM6A).
dave
The onkens impress me, being maybe 3 feet wide so probably offering at least some directivity down to maybe 200Hz or lower.
Yes, this is interesting looking too.
Did anybody notice, as I did, what a terrible acoustic room this is!
Wooden floor, undetermined ceiling and no damping whatsoever...
I wouldn't be able to hear a thing for the echoes. Even if I have a certain respect for Horn-loading and Lowther.
Interestingly, the good people at SEAS in Moss in Norway have given a bit of thought to terrible rooms like this:
ACOUSTIC SPECIAL SOLUTIONS
You either get it about dispersion and MTM, or you don't.
Wooden floor, undetermined ceiling and no damping whatsoever...
I wouldn't be able to hear a thing for the echoes. Even if I have a certain respect for Horn-loading and Lowther.
Interestingly, the good people at SEAS in Moss in Norway have given a bit of thought to terrible rooms like this:
ACOUSTIC SPECIAL SOLUTIONS
You either get it about dispersion and MTM, or you don't.
-it's got to be a lowther (or lowther-like driver): the size of the whizzer in relation to the cone is very large, larger than the 206..
-basically a lowther TP1 on top of an Onken.. Needs to be one of the more powerful lowther's as well for the rising response when used in a horn like the TP1.
If I was doing "retro cool" for a set it would be these:
YouTube
(..though like the lowther/TP1/Onken, the actual (overall) design is much newer.)
It doesn't look as bad as many I see posted here. It's mostly that big glass wall that will hurt. Otherwise there is a suspended ceiling, wood floor (not tile or concrete) and wooden wall panels - and a fair amount of space.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Looks like a Lowther in an Altec style short front horn with a dome tweeter and Onken style bass cabinet. What a mix!
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