Above is the crossover from the Mofi Sourcepoint 8. The size of the board is the exact size of the hole that sits in the speaker so the components can be a bit taller but not wider than the board. Are there any good capacitors or resistors that would fit that could be an upgrade for this?
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What problem do you hope to solve by changing the capacitors and resistors in this brand new loudspeaker?
https://www.hifinews.com/content/mofi-sourcepoint-8-loudspeaker
https://www.hifinews.com/content/mofi-sourcepoint-8-loudspeaker
I'd get rid of the cheap polyester MET caps and replace with Clarity PX. Switch out the electrolytic (likely the parallel cap on the woofer LP) with a Mundorf ECap. Don't touch the inductors. They appear to have air cores and look decent, plus you'd have to account for their DCR.
Regarding fitting on the board, the dimensions of the capacitors in the Clarity PX range are given here:
https://www.claritycap.co.uk/products/px.php
What about the resistors, profiguy?
You won't notice a difference with decent resistors, even of they're wire wound. Sometimes a good metal film resistor in the HF signal path can be audible, but its a very minute difference, not enough to be heard. I like resistors with non magnetic leads, which most non- or low inductance WW resistors are. My first choices are always mills or vishay.
I recently ordered a bunch of the dayton audio / parts express green bodied WW copper lead resistors. They're relatively small for their power rating and have welded copper leads. They're very low temp coefficient compared to other wire wound resistors. Be advised that WW resistors placed close to HF inductors can pick up small amounts of crosstalk depending on the value.
Eagle metal film resistors are very nice in the HF HP section, but again here its a very subtle difference, especially if the series resistance is low. MF resistors usually sound better in higher resistance values used in the HF pad section.
I recently ordered a bunch of the dayton audio / parts express green bodied WW copper lead resistors. They're relatively small for their power rating and have welded copper leads. They're very low temp coefficient compared to other wire wound resistors. Be advised that WW resistors placed close to HF inductors can pick up small amounts of crosstalk depending on the value.
Eagle metal film resistors are very nice in the HF HP section, but again here its a very subtle difference, especially if the series resistance is low. MF resistors usually sound better in higher resistance values used in the HF pad section.
Is there a way to tell which side is positive and which side is negative when the ECap is just one color all the way around?
Am I seeing things or are none of the components potted onto the board? Nice off the shelf cable ties, but unusual to see just the lead in/out wires glued down.
Good question. And what is the life span of a zip tie? Seems like they eventually get brittle, but maybe not inside the cabinet.
As to refitting ther board in the box, i’d just mount it on the outside and add an extra set of terminals.
dave
dave
I`d go with Daves advice, and will do myself, as I am going to buy the Sourcepoint 8 soon. An external crossover box will also allow you to use whatever cap you will, as they can be mounted at the back of the crossover board.
I will use Jantzen Audio Superior Z-Cap 800VDC - 2% tolerance. Fits/balances the Sourcepoints sonic characteristics very well.
Also use/upgrade the terminals with Gr Researchès low-mass terminals. And change the internal wiring with solide core 1.5mm teflon cable to the tweeter, and 2X 1,5mm solid core teflon cable to the woofer. Not expensive if copper, better with silver.
And solder the internal wiring to the woofer and tweeter.
Also, adding a 3/4" marble or other soft stone platform under the speaker, connected with flexble glue or other direct connection to the chassis, will improve fine dynamics, instrument/vocal clarity and bass. In black, it just looks good.
If you dont have good power cables for your amp, and source, buy some middel class second hand Wire world power cables. And be amazed...
All rekommandations are by experience, not hype...
Please report when you make the upgrades.
HelgeH, Denmark.
I will use Jantzen Audio Superior Z-Cap 800VDC - 2% tolerance. Fits/balances the Sourcepoints sonic characteristics very well.
Also use/upgrade the terminals with Gr Researchès low-mass terminals. And change the internal wiring with solide core 1.5mm teflon cable to the tweeter, and 2X 1,5mm solid core teflon cable to the woofer. Not expensive if copper, better with silver.
And solder the internal wiring to the woofer and tweeter.
Also, adding a 3/4" marble or other soft stone platform under the speaker, connected with flexble glue or other direct connection to the chassis, will improve fine dynamics, instrument/vocal clarity and bass. In black, it just looks good.
If you dont have good power cables for your amp, and source, buy some middel class second hand Wire world power cables. And be amazed...
All rekommandations are by experience, not hype...
Please report when you make the upgrades.
HelgeH, Denmark.
These are the values I found on the capacitors.
I can replace the 10uF and 15uF with Clarity PX possibly (even though they will probably be quite huge) but I can't seem to find suitable 2uF or 68uF replacements.
| 68uF/100V |
| 10uf/100V |
| 15uf/100V |
| 2uf/100V |
I can replace the 10uF and 15uF with Clarity PX possibly (even though they will probably be quite huge) but I can't seem to find suitable 2uF or 68uF replacements.
The 68 uF is an NP electrolytic, a type which you would have to adopt in order to minimise the physical size.
If using Clarity PX, you can use two capacitors connected in parallel (side by side) in order to arrive at, or close to, the desired value.
https://www.claritycap.co.uk/products/px.php
e.g. 47 uF in parallel with 22 uF gives 69 uF, but the resulting physical combination will be huge!
If using Clarity PX, you can use two capacitors connected in parallel (side by side) in order to arrive at, or close to, the desired value.
https://www.claritycap.co.uk/products/px.php
e.g. 47 uF in parallel with 22 uF gives 69 uF, but the resulting physical combination will be huge!
I won’t use a bipoler Elco unless it is purposely a cheap (what doi i have kicking around) build.
43mm D x 60mm L (68uf)
dave
43mm D x 60mm L (68uf)
dave
@driftingbunnies In case you don't know, the above is a Solen MKP capacitor.
https://partsconnexion.com/collecti...roducts/solen-capacitor-68uf-400vdc-pb-series
https://partsconnexion.com/collecti...roducts/solen-capacitor-68uf-400vdc-pb-series
The cheapest easily available polys around. You can spend more but that likely not to have agrerat affect given where the cap sits.
Note that vendors often only offer 400 or 630V versions. These target tube amplifier use.
dave
Note that vendors often only offer 400 or 630V versions. These target tube amplifier use.
dave
I totally agree. Our friend driftingbunnies should therefore search for inexpensive MKP capacitors to replace the MET types currently fitted.
I would not regard the 68 uF Solen MKP capacitor you pictured as being cheap at around $25 a pop, but needs must!
https://www.parts-express.com/Audyn-Cap-Q4-68uF-400V-MKP-Foil-Capacitor-027-123?quantity=1
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