Hello, i'm repairing an xxx4000d driver board.
Now amp works fine but it has a bump when start sound and the small transistors (ktc3228-kta1277) become hot in 30 seconds after power on.
Is it right or I have a problem in the amp?
I think to replace small transistors with mje340-mje350
Now amp works fine but it has a bump when start sound and the small transistors (ktc3228-kta1277) become hot in 30 seconds after power on.
Is it right or I have a problem in the amp?
I think to replace small transistors with mje340-mje350
Attachments
Fan is replaced with new fan, I pay it 4 euro.
Now I test the two drive signal referred to center tap.
Red is the gate of transistor with negative rail on source
Yellow is the gate of transistor with positive rail on drain.
In the driver board only the transistor that drives low side become hot.
Drivers and pre drivers, all are hot, but irfp264n on low side are cold as the high side
Now I test the two drive signal referred to center tap.
Red is the gate of transistor with negative rail on source
Yellow is the gate of transistor with positive rail on drain.
In the driver board only the transistor that drives low side become hot.
Drivers and pre drivers, all are hot, but irfp264n on low side are cold as the high side
Attachments
I cannot test amp with load.
With cooled mosfet I test the amp with music.
At idle it draws 3 amps
When sounds at low volume it draws 3-3.5 amps
After 30 seconds it increases the current and at 8-9 amps then I power off the amp.
Driver board is very hot only in the part that drives the output mosfet irfp264n with negative rail i on source
With cooled mosfet I test the amp with music.
At idle it draws 3 amps
When sounds at low volume it draws 3-3.5 amps
After 30 seconds it increases the current and at 8-9 amps then I power off the amp.
Driver board is very hot only in the part that drives the output mosfet irfp264n with negative rail i on source
Some of these amps draw a lot of current at idle. You can reduce it by increasing the value of the resistor in the constant current source. I think the resistor is connected to the emitter of the small transistor (Q112?) at the top corner of the board. That's a last resort if everything else appears to be OK.
The low side driver transistors run hot. You can see that one of the low-side drivers is brown in the photo. That's likely because the one in parallel with it has a broken solder connection and it's working alone (it could be defective from running too hot).
The low side driver transistors run hot. You can see that one of the low-side drivers is brown in the photo. That's likely because the one in parallel with it has a broken solder connection and it's working alone (it could be defective from running too hot).
The low side are going to run hot. It's due to the circuit design. The newer designs used in other amps use a dedicated supply that has the transistors operating at a lower voltage and they run cooler. There isn't much that you can do to make the ones in this amp run cooler.
If you leave the leads long so that the body of the transistor is very nearly touching the blades of the fan, that will help the transistors run somewhat cooler and get the heat away from the board to prevent damaging the board.
Is the main problem still the high idle current?
If you leave the leads long so that the body of the transistor is very nearly touching the blades of the fan, that will help the transistors run somewhat cooler and get the heat away from the board to prevent damaging the board.
Is the main problem still the high idle current?
i note that this amp discharge the negative rail to fast
Without output transistor and without driver board the negative rail goes tu zero volts in e few time than positive rail.
When negative is at 0 positive is at 30 volts
Idle current is 2 amps without driver board and without low side Irfp264n
The problem is that pre-drivers become hot and amp starts draws a lot of current without control.
With mje and Toshiba I have the same problem
Without output transistor and without driver board the negative rail goes tu zero volts in e few time than positive rail.
When negative is at 0 positive is at 30 volts
Idle current is 2 amps without driver board and without low side Irfp264n
The problem is that pre-drivers become hot and amp starts draws a lot of current without control.
With mje and Toshiba I have the same problem
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A couple of things are possible.
It could be that the rails aren't evenly loaded and that's causing one rail to discharge more quickly.
If the low-side drivers were defective, it could have caused the negative rail to see excessive voltage, damaging the capacitors. They could be leaking (electrically) or have reduced capacity.
I'm assuming that the rails have equal voltage (above and below 0v) during normal operation.
It could be that the rails aren't evenly loaded and that's causing one rail to discharge more quickly.
If the low-side drivers were defective, it could have caused the negative rail to see excessive voltage, damaging the capacitors. They could be leaking (electrically) or have reduced capacity.
I'm assuming that the rails have equal voltage (above and below 0v) during normal operation.
Rail has + 96 and - 96 during operations.
Capacitors seems ok, but I have to test without board.
Now I note that when amp works at low volume- idle, in driver board become hot all the pre drivers and drivers of low side, but low side most are cold
In the high side drivers are all cold, but I have only 2 irfp264n that are very hot. Only q131-q132.
At idle it draws 3 amps when power on, 4,5 amps when there is oscillation in output stage.
Capacitors seems ok, but I have to test without board.
Now I note that when amp works at low volume- idle, in driver board become hot all the pre drivers and drivers of low side, but low side most are cold
In the high side drivers are all cold, but I have only 2 irfp264n that are very hot. Only q131-q132.
At idle it draws 3 amps when power on, 4,5 amps when there is oscillation in output stage.
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