May not be right but I simply removed the lock washer and got past the stripped threads. Now that i know the amp works I can get a longer screw or thread lock.
The washer is not even sufficient, in my opinion but it's what they use and needs to be in place.
Get a much longer screw and a nut. Screw the screw (gently) to the bottom of the hole. This will use 100% of the available threads. The nut will be used to tighten down on the washer. Since there will be no stress on the remaining threads (other than a straight pull), you are less likely to damage what's left. Don't over-tighten.
Alternatives are heli-coils (a lot of cost, learning curve to use just once), going to the next size (sometimes a very slightly larger metric size is available, if the original was SAE).
Get a much longer screw and a nut. Screw the screw (gently) to the bottom of the hole. This will use 100% of the available threads. The nut will be used to tighten down on the washer. Since there will be no stress on the remaining threads (other than a straight pull), you are less likely to damage what's left. Don't over-tighten.
Alternatives are heli-coils (a lot of cost, learning curve to use just once), going to the next size (sometimes a very slightly larger metric size is available, if the original was SAE).
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I don’t think the lock washer does much myself. The screw is #8-32. I cut a stud from a longer stainless screw and used the lock washer and a nut. I did manage to catch three threads on the stud before bottoming out and snugged the nut up tightly. Should be good to go. Thanks again for your time and help
