OK. Check the probes like you were trying to do with the other meter to confirm that it's working correctly.
So probe came in and tested the probe and it showed like 0.1 ohms.
However, I think the amp is fine.
I bought a jl jx 500 1/d for $50 to have something to listen to while I fix or fail to fix my amp. When I plugged it in the amp immediately went into protection mode. I tried it without speakers and checked my remote, still in protection mode. I then ran a new power wire and it came out of protection mode. While running the wire I cleaned the contact at the battery terminal a little and adjusted the wires on my 1f capacitor. The JL amp was working fine so I had to test my old amp and it now is working.
I think I narrowed it down to bad battery contact or a bad capacitor.
I think it might be the cap but I’m not sure. The cap is a little old so I tested the voltage with the car off and when the bass hit the cap voltage and amp voltage would drop a few tenths of a volt. I’m not really sure how to determine if the cap is shot but it’s almost as old as the amp.
Thanks
However, I think the amp is fine.
I bought a jl jx 500 1/d for $50 to have something to listen to while I fix or fail to fix my amp. When I plugged it in the amp immediately went into protection mode. I tried it without speakers and checked my remote, still in protection mode. I then ran a new power wire and it came out of protection mode. While running the wire I cleaned the contact at the battery terminal a little and adjusted the wires on my 1f capacitor. The JL amp was working fine so I had to test my old amp and it now is working.
I think I narrowed it down to bad battery contact or a bad capacitor.
I think it might be the cap but I’m not sure. The cap is a little old so I tested the voltage with the car off and when the bass hit the cap voltage and amp voltage would drop a few tenths of a volt. I’m not really sure how to determine if the cap is shot but it’s almost as old as the amp.
Thanks
Ok.. the issue came back after a day. The amp was going in and out of protect mode. I didn’t get to check the voltages though
Is the voltage across the B+ and ground terminals of the amp remaining well above 11v as the amp goes into protect?
Ok.. so I’ve never seen this before but voltages drop to 4-6v when I turn the ignition to accessory. Voltage at the battery reads normal about 12v with car off 13.8v with car on but 4-6v at the amp. I have been using the same ground for a while and have not moved, now all of a sudden. My remote is not connected to my receiver but to the fuse box.
I’m confused
I’m confused
You need to measure the voltage across every connection between wires, wires and terminal blocks, wires and fuse holders and wires and battery/ground when the voltage drops to 4-6v.
I can’t find the voltage drop.. I’m baffled, however if I keep the volume low it stays on. I mean really low like 12, where I listen around 15 to 17 and 20 is really loud. If I turn it up, it goes right into protect. I’m thinking maybe it’s a battery or alternator issue.
I checked the power wire by the battery with the negative terminal. That included the battery connection and around the fuse. The next break in power happens by the amp and I checked it against the ground wire there, which is attached to the shock tower in the trunk. Same ground I was using when it was fine. When the amp works I see 12v at the amp when it goes into protection I see 6v.
Monitor the voltage with one probe the amp's ground terminal and the other on another known good ground (like the bolts for the trunk latch) when the amp is driven hard and the voltage across the B+ and ground terminals of the amp. Does the voltage read more than a tiny fraction of a volt?