Does the 1600 work perfectly?
Is the noise on both audible?
What point are you using for your scope ground?
Is the noise on both audible?
What point are you using for your scope ground?
Scope ground.
Yes fully operational. New
Everything is exactly the same all signals. Noisey. Not present in other amplifiers. My new siligent scope comes today. The drivers in this new amp heat up badly right away hot to the touch? I'll check on shop speakers today if audible.
Yes fully operational. New
Everything is exactly the same all signals. Noisey. Not present in other amplifiers. My new siligent scope comes today. The drivers in this new amp heat up badly right away hot to the touch? I'll check on shop speakers today if audible.
The drivers operate at very high temperatures. In many amps, they actually damage the board. Not having a fan makes it much worse. If the amp is functioning and has been for a while, the temperature is likely perfectly normal (not good, but normal).
ok. Definitly not good. Maybe ill find a way to disappate some of the heat, a spreader of sorts. or an extra fan(s)
What about the output transistors heating up like that? Is is just beause ii dont have them clamped?
All the signals and voltages look the same as the rub1600.1? I ordered it beacuse i have been so stumped as to why this noise persists despite all my changes.
Not sure what else i can do.
What about the output transistors heating up like that? Is is just beause ii dont have them clamped?
All the signals and voltages look the same as the rub1600.1? I ordered it beacuse i have been so stumped as to why this noise persists despite all my changes.
Not sure what else i can do.
Confirm that the speaker negative is secondary ground and if so, ground your scope to that.
The output transistors with the large drivers and outputs heat up without clamping them. It's possible that you could reduce the idle current by changing the resistor in the constant current source on the driver board but without fine tuning, you may have some distortion in the output.
Adding a fan or adding clip-on heatsinks (with thermal compound) will reduce the driver temperatures. If you do this, replace the MPSA42 drivers and leave the leads long to reduce the heat getting to the driver board.
The output transistors with the large drivers and outputs heat up without clamping them. It's possible that you could reduce the idle current by changing the resistor in the constant current source on the driver board but without fine tuning, you may have some distortion in the output.
Adding a fan or adding clip-on heatsinks (with thermal compound) will reduce the driver temperatures. If you do this, replace the MPSA42 drivers and leave the leads long to reduce the heat getting to the driver board.
Did you get it fixed? I have 2 of these soundstream Rubicon 2500.1 1 new in plastic an hooked 12v into neg an neg into 12v and smoked it other just stopped working. I need them repaired.Entire board
Please start a new thread if you need help with a repair of your own.
If you think this thread is relevant, include a link to it in your original post.
If you think this thread is relevant, include a link to it in your original post.
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