Soundstream Reference 405 (NON S/SX) Rectifiers
Working on a NON S/SX version, Soundstream reference 405. This NON S/SX version is using the 'rare' dual doubler rectifiers (The ones where the diodes both point to the right).
I need to replace the entire set as one of the BTs failed.
D103 through D106 originally is using FED16BT. This side runs +-25vDC rail voltage to channels 1 thru 4.
D107 and D108 is using FED16FT. This side runs +-35vDC or +-45vDC to the 5th channel subwoofer depending on physical switch mode between High Current or High Power.
FED16BT and FED16FT are hard to find, except for one place on eBay from Originalparts seller, who sells equivalents:
FED16BT --> FED16CT
FED16DT --> FED16FT
Will FED16FT work for everything or should I buy sleeves of both FED16FT and FED16CT? Would love to buy enough so I don't get another headache later on.
Working on a NON S/SX version, Soundstream reference 405. This NON S/SX version is using the 'rare' dual doubler rectifiers (The ones where the diodes both point to the right).
I need to replace the entire set as one of the BTs failed.
D103 through D106 originally is using FED16BT. This side runs +-25vDC rail voltage to channels 1 thru 4.
D107 and D108 is using FED16FT. This side runs +-35vDC or +-45vDC to the 5th channel subwoofer depending on physical switch mode between High Current or High Power.
FED16BT and FED16FT are hard to find, except for one place on eBay from Originalparts seller, who sells equivalents:
FED16BT --> FED16CT
FED16DT --> FED16FT
Will FED16FT work for everything or should I buy sleeves of both FED16FT and FED16CT? Would love to buy enough so I don't get another headache later on.
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D107 and D108 is using FED16FT.
^^ FT used originally?
The difference in the rectifiers is generally the speed and the forward voltage drop for the rectifiers above the DT in voltage. The FT is slower and has more forward voltage. This will make them run hotter . That said, they're all rated for the same current.
^^ FT used originally?
The difference in the rectifiers is generally the speed and the forward voltage drop for the rectifiers above the DT in voltage. The FT is slower and has more forward voltage. This will make them run hotter . That said, they're all rated for the same current.
You know looks like they were previously replaced. The originals in D106 D107 should have been FED16DT but those are not available. Originalparts listing on eBay is subbing the FED16DT with FED16FT.
I went ahead and ordered about 20x of each, FED16CT, FED16FT seeing as I have a bunch of SS amps after this one.
10pcs FED16FT 16A 300v Dual Fast Efficient Doublers Rectifier SUB for FED16DT | eBay
10pcs FED16CT 150V 16A Dual Fast Efficient Doublers Rectifier SUB for FED16BT | eBay
I went ahead and ordered about 20x of each, FED16CT, FED16FT seeing as I have a bunch of SS amps after this one.
10pcs FED16FT 16A 300v Dual Fast Efficient Doublers Rectifier SUB for FED16DT | eBay
10pcs FED16CT 150V 16A Dual Fast Efficient Doublers Rectifier SUB for FED16BT | eBay
Im getting quite low on the above ordered FED16FT units from eBay. I'm also seeing about a 5% instant failure/defect rate on these eBay units. Looks like the links are no longer available anyways.
I need Dual Doubler 16A rectifiers. The ONLY source I'm able to see and possibly procurable are through Alibaba, where they appear to have MUR1620G/GD available for quotation. Something doesn't seem right though because MUR1620G appears to be a single whereas what Alibaba is saying they're dual doublers.
Again need to think how to continue repairing old SS with Dual Doublers as I only have about 20 units left here. Perhaps re-wire for regular MUR1620?
I need Dual Doubler 16A rectifiers. The ONLY source I'm able to see and possibly procurable are through Alibaba, where they appear to have MUR1620G/GD available for quotation. Something doesn't seem right though because MUR1620G appears to be a single whereas what Alibaba is saying they're dual doublers.
Again need to think how to continue repairing old SS with Dual Doublers as I only have about 20 units left here. Perhaps re-wire for regular MUR1620?
I tried most of those avenues. Seems FEP16DTD is the best option - many of the foreign/china companies are listing thousands of those available but require quotations to procure. I received one quote which wanted $12 per device on a quantity of 200 (Thats about $2400!) so thats a no go.
The parts are available through eBay/china sellers. I went ahead and ordered 20 units to test. I dont know how well they are going to work out though.
The parts are available through eBay/china sellers. I went ahead and ordered 20 units to test. I dont know how well they are going to work out though.
You know, I've seen a few of those type of doublers in at least two old SS amps which were previously repaired by others. In those amps, those doublers had failed. 10A vs 16A, and 70A vs 200A peak. Not sure if thats why they failed though as those amps also had multiple other failures (Switches, outputs, PS fets).
Outputs fail due to starvation (Low amperage Rects)
Rects fail due to outputs failure
PS fet failure due to rect failure
Outputs fail due to starvation (Low amperage Rects)
Rects fail due to outputs failure
PS fet failure due to rect failure
I don't think the outputs are going to fail from current starvation.
I've seen a lot of SS rectifier failures with no other problems but they can definitely cause the PS to fail, especially if the wrong fuse is in the amp.
I've seen a lot of SS rectifier failures with no other problems but they can definitely cause the PS to fail, especially if the wrong fuse is in the amp.
What about planning with something like a MUR2020? All these amps runs with at least a pair of rectifiers. I’m thinking alternate the leg placement of each in the different locations. The amps I’ve seen always run with even amounts of rectifiers. Part is rated for 20A. Thoughts?
Whatever you can make work.
What sort of placement are you thinking of, on this amp, for example?
What sort of placement are you thinking of, on this amp, for example?
So the CT and BT units look legit? The DTD fake? DTD Those are the ones I just bought samples from eBay
I can't say legit without seeing legit. Typically, the die size is much reduced for counterfeits. Genuine also typically have a much cleaner solder bond to the metal tab.
The third one could be a defect or counterfeit. I had some FETs that I bought that were actually dual diodes when I cracked one open.
The third one could be a defect or counterfeit. I had some FETs that I bought that were actually dual diodes when I cracked one open.