Just saw the new Stealth amps.. Will be picking one up for the motorcycle... 🙂
S/N = 70db but on a bike with a helmet...
S/N = 70db but on a bike with a helmet...
Cool, thanks.
Now what are the chances that the final outputs I bought where fakes?
I think I found some 2SA1302 and 2SC3281original Toshiba made in 1995.
We'll see what happens 😀
They won't be counterfeit if you buy from a reputable distributor. Let's wait to see what Wade thinks.
90scaraudio, what were the numbers on the devices you bought? the latest replacements for the original devices are 2SA1962 and 2SC5242. what manufacturer name is on the transistors the you think are fakes.
My fav old school amp was the Rubicon 555. I had mine mounted on top of a Subsolutions BP sub, in under the hood of a 1987 911. It ran 3 channel driving a pair of a/d/s seperates. Most elegant and simple system I ever had. It would shut off for a few minutes when overheating. The sub ran at 4 ohms. But I never heard any clipping beforehand.
Im just wondering if one ran the sub at 2 ohms if it would shut off faster.
I have since bought another one on ebay. The plan is to run it three channel put to use efficient 3.5" full ranges and midbass drivers vs the traditional compenent seprates with midbass, (busy) crossover and tweeter. I would like to attempt to use the onboard crossovers that the rubi 555 has.
Im not sure which frequencies to start off with. But the idea is I want the full ranges to play as full as they can without any mechanical issues.
The manual has a few diagrams but they are a little hard to follow.
Im just wondering if one ran the sub at 2 ohms if it would shut off faster.
I have since bought another one on ebay. The plan is to run it three channel put to use efficient 3.5" full ranges and midbass drivers vs the traditional compenent seprates with midbass, (busy) crossover and tweeter. I would like to attempt to use the onboard crossovers that the rubi 555 has.
Im not sure which frequencies to start off with. But the idea is I want the full ranges to play as full as they can without any mechanical issues.
The manual has a few diagrams but they are a little hard to follow.
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How many original NOS 1990 date code transistors do you need? I have some stock < 30 or 40 pairs >from back then when these were standard from Toshiba in black and green bodied plastic cases. The last run was both P and N in black body plastic I also have some of those since these were standard issue in Phoenix Gold amps back then. Let me know if your still looking, you have my email address..😉
You might also look at 1964 and 5200 devices since PG turned to those due to the lack of Toshiba manufacturing the originals anymore. Seems they thought those were good drop ins for the older Toshiba's you posted about....Cec
Also JandR has them listed here: and Jaime is reptutable and reliable, Wade would know this lol lol lol...
Tochiba 6pcs 2SA1302 6pcs 2SC3281 Silicon Power Transistors | eBay
You might also look at 1964 and 5200 devices since PG turned to those due to the lack of Toshiba manufacturing the originals anymore. Seems they thought those were good drop ins for the older Toshiba's you posted about....Cec
Also JandR has them listed here: and Jaime is reptutable and reliable, Wade would know this lol lol lol...
Tochiba 6pcs 2SA1302 6pcs 2SC3281 Silicon Power Transistors | eBay
KSA and KSC
Replaced with Fairchild. They sure got hot quick and did not seem to put out as much power as my Reference 500!
Just bought them...
But still need to find 2SC3296 and 2SA1304 two of each.
Cec...WATTS up...😀
angeloPB, I didn't design the 555. if you have been running higher than 2 ohms switching to 2 ohms should make it shut down sooner. all the soundstream amps I designedhad thermal rollback. if an amp overheated instead of shutting down it would limit the power until it cooled off and then switch back instead of shutting down. i checked the 555 schematic and it does not have this feature.
thanks
thanks
Soundstream
No such thing as a class A amplifier for car audio. The dissipation is too high even on a 25w/ch 4 ohm amplifier.
The diode - 1 ohm only allows you to set idling current a little higher than when using 0.x ohm emitter resistors.
The SOA of a TIP102 allows the device to pull 2.7A at 30Vceo and 2A at 40Vceo
The SOA of a TIP142 allows the device to pull 4A at 30Vceo and 2.8A at 40Vceo
So where you come by your numbers that the TO220 device has better SOA than the TO218 is beyond my understanding.
All you have to do is download the data sheets
Over the past 11 years we have repaired about 400 Soundstream amplifiers of the Reference series, about 150 pcs of the first MC series.
So 400 pcs of 17K pcs is 2.3% and I guess that many others have repaired Reference series.
So 1-2% is wishfull thinking at best.
Depending on the particular reference amplifier we have repaired, some exhibit gross crossover THD (Scope at 20KHz with 4 ohm load at 4v peak to peak on a scope whilst others have no notch on the waveform and idle too high - thus blown devices as these Darlingtons are pretty bad as far as thermal stability is concerned
No such thing as a class A amplifier for car audio. The dissipation is too high even on a 25w/ch 4 ohm amplifier.
The diode - 1 ohm only allows you to set idling current a little higher than when using 0.x ohm emitter resistors.
The SOA of a TIP102 allows the device to pull 2.7A at 30Vceo and 2A at 40Vceo
The SOA of a TIP142 allows the device to pull 4A at 30Vceo and 2.8A at 40Vceo
So where you come by your numbers that the TO220 device has better SOA than the TO218 is beyond my understanding.
All you have to do is download the data sheets
Over the past 11 years we have repaired about 400 Soundstream amplifiers of the Reference series, about 150 pcs of the first MC series.
So 400 pcs of 17K pcs is 2.3% and I guess that many others have repaired Reference series.
So 1-2% is wishfull thinking at best.
Depending on the particular reference amplifier we have repaired, some exhibit gross crossover THD (Scope at 20KHz with 4 ohm load at 4v peak to peak on a scope whilst others have no notch on the waveform and idle too high - thus blown devices as these Darlingtons are pretty bad as far as thermal stability is concerned
Yes but they do sound decent when not overdriven. And I haven't found a new class D that I like plus all the problems these are having. I wish that car amps had a feature like some of the pro stuff that would start to attenuate the input when the amp starts to clip. I guess this would save to many amps and would not be good for business. 😀
B&D seems to have the 1304 device for least cost.
Search - Octopart
The 2SC3296 device seems to be off the chart price wise. but Dalbani has them at a golden price
2SC3296 Original New Toshiba Transistor C3296 | eBay
I have about 8 pieces of NOS Toshiba green bodied 2SA1306 and 8 pieces of Toshiba black bodied 2SC3298 both of which are higher grade devices to your original spec both out of my NOS PG stock.
Active electronics on ebay has them here for reasonable pricing < Active is a reputable source also> :
2SA1306 2SC3298 A1306 C3298 1pairs Transistor Toshiba | eBay
2X 2SA1306 2X2SC3298 A1306 C3298 2pairs Transistor Toshiba | eBay
Possible replacement below:
I also have 2SB1186A green and 2SD1763A black which should probably work also about 8 pieces each on hand ALL NOS old school stock from back in the day
2SB1186A NPN SI Vert Output | eBay
Search - Octopart
Search - Octopart
Hanging in there Scott, How about you?
You mean like McIntosh/Clarion did in there car amps??? "Power Guard" it was called, I call it musical compression via the power supply rails. Might as well add very high current voltage limiting to the output stage, as it might sound about the same. < makes music pump up and down in volume , sorta like breathing effects if its used sparingly, and hard volume pumping on high compression operation... Almost freaky sounding if you don't know what it is. Been done, and been done by a big name companies since way back in 1975. The Mc2205 I am working on below is an example. It has the LDR input gain reduction control circuitry, "Clip Guard"...
Musical volume compression would be abused by people to the point it would destroy any musicality of the content. It might save amps, but I think the way it would sound would be a death blow to the audio industry since people if given an infinite volume knob tend to keep turning things up no matter what.
PS you should see the McIntosh Mc-2205 I am cleaning up right now on my bench😱, and it was serviced by a authorized McIntosh repair center in the bay area. I got a DVD I am burning of pictures on this one LOL LOL LOL....😱
I used to do Sound for some bands back in the day and I used a few of these EV units. They worked very well. That is all I was saying. Only good for someone that knows what the equipment is doing! 😀
I'm doing good though...
Attachments
I checked the original devices and they check out OK so I might put them back in. This RUB1000-2 looked untouched and not blown for $55, not bad! But I may search for the stuff you listed and do the research 😀
Yeah well Pro gear gets run differently than most end user gear does, so your point is well taken. Everybody wants great gear in their rides and homes even if they don't have the slightest clue whats involved or what they should at minimum know to use the gear correctly. Seen that so much along the way, and it always turns out so bad dealing with the end users learning curve issues.😱
I remember the shots you sent me now of the stacks you were running...😉
I remember the shots you sent me now of the stacks you were running...😉