I don't expect you will run into that unless you have large swings in your interior humidity. Even then, the idea behind the triple layers is, they will tend to stabilize one another. They are fully fixed at the perimeter and you will be using weights to assemble this to ensure it stays flat during set-up. The reason you want three layers is you have to be reasonable. Three of them weight the same as a single 3/4" ply obviously so it's very heavy. The lathe and glue weight very little but you still have a heavy door. You will want to use spruce ply as it's the most reasonable weight wise and cost wise. Your finished door will be 1 1/2" thick. Make your pocket between the new 2x2 stick wall and your old. according to how flat and true the door actually is. You'll need a decent track and wheel system but that should be easy as glass sliders are heavier than this.
A triple glazed glass slider is another option as a pocket door but it depends if you want the see-through part or not.
A triple glazed glass slider is another option as a pocket door but it depends if you want the see-through part or not.
Cal,
I run a dehumidifier during the summer months so I don't think I should have a problem with humidity.
I've been looking at guides and rollers for patio doors so I think I'm ok there.
As far as the construction of the door:
Would sealing all the layers with polyurethane be a good idea?
What do you recommend for the lathe material?
Is the lathe only around the perimeter or should I run a strip through the middle of the 4' width?
Am I using any screws or will the green glue hold this together?
Sorry for all the questions
Thanks,
Scott
I run a dehumidifier during the summer months so I don't think I should have a problem with humidity.
I've been looking at guides and rollers for patio doors so I think I'm ok there.
As far as the construction of the door:
Would sealing all the layers with polyurethane be a good idea?
What do you recommend for the lathe material?
Is the lathe only around the perimeter or should I run a strip through the middle of the 4' width?
Am I using any screws or will the green glue hold this together?
Sorry for all the questions
Thanks,
Scott
For a small increase in weight, you could make the middle of the three layers MDF or even standard particle board. Not only less resonant, but at a different frequency(s) than the 1/4 inch plywood.
Screws on the perimeter. I may be wrong, but I don't think member Weldon's solution involves green glue (randomly over the entire surface as is recommended).
I wouldn't expect polyurethane on each layer to have much effect acoustically. Of course it would reduce the effect of any humidity changes. And it would probably improve the adhesion of the Green Glue, if that is involved.
Regards
Screws on the perimeter. I may be wrong, but I don't think member Weldon's solution involves green glue (randomly over the entire surface as is recommended).
I wouldn't expect polyurethane on each layer to have much effect acoustically. Of course it would reduce the effect of any humidity changes. And it would probably improve the adhesion of the Green Glue, if that is involved.
Regards
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I spelled it incorrectly. There's no e.Cal,
What do you recommend for the lathe material?
Lathe is a product that comes in assorted lengths and is 5/16" x 1.5" often red cedar, but it doesn't much matter
Just the perimeter. Anything in the center will effectively turn all three plies into one.Is the lathe only around the perimeter or should I run a strip through the middle of the 4' width?
One screw in each corner on both sides should do it unless your plywood needs to be tamed. It will prevent glue sag over time.Am I using any screws or will the green glue hold this together?
Not at all. If you're going to put time into this, do it right.Sorry for all the questions
While the idea is sound (pun intended) I would be worried about how brittle that thin a piece of MDF is. I shiver just thinking about moving it.For a small increase in weight, you could make the middle of the three layers MDF or even standard particle board. Not only less resonant, but at a different frequency(s) than the 1/4 inch plywood.
Yes but only four if you can get away with it. The more decoupling the better.Screws on the perimeter. I may be wrong, but I don't think member Weldon's solution involves green glue (randomly over the entire surface as is recommended).
Nor would I.I wouldn't expect polyurethane on each layer to have much effect acoustically.
Green glue probably won't make a big difference and if regular PVA is used then clamps or weights are better than screws. Screws aren't the best idea as you will have to screw from both sides to get a proper bite.Of course it would reduce the effect of any humidity changes. And it would probably improve the adhesion of the Green Glue, if that is involved.
Cal,
If I used the foam tape I assume I would have to use screws in the corners to hold the door together?
On my existing wall I was planning on insulating it and covering it with drywall and on the new wall that creates the "pocket" I am planning on drywalling each side. Am I on the right track??
Thanks,
Scott
If I used the foam tape I assume I would have to use screws in the corners to hold the door together?
On my existing wall I was planning on insulating it and covering it with drywall and on the new wall that creates the "pocket" I am planning on drywalling each side. Am I on the right track??
Thanks,
Scott
If you're talking about 'standard construction practice' with one row of studs, and dry wall on each side, the studs unfortunately provide an excellent transmission path. By itself, the 'pocket' section would be fine since there wouldn't be a rigid connection between the two drywall (acoustically active) surfaces. But if the rest of the wall will be finished on both sides, staggered / offset studs make a huge improvement in attenuation. Then absorbent material(s) in between will help even further.
By the way, the screws I was thinking of, are machine screws with T-nuts. Better with thin stock. Used to use tons of them front-mounting drivers.
Cheers
By the way, the screws I was thinking of, are machine screws with T-nuts. Better with thin stock. Used to use tons of them front-mounting drivers.
Cheers
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Rick, the new wall will be spaced from the existing wall and doesn’t need to have drywall on both sides, it’s a bit of a waste because of what you say. I’ve also recommended he use 2x2 so as not to intrude into the room too much so staggering the studs is not possible. If you read through my posts, you’ll see this isn’t my first kick at the can. I think we are actually on the same page. It’s only the door that will prove interesting.
Although I have read that it's good practice to decouple the wall from the concrete floor, I did not find it necessary in practice. Simply keeping the walls from touching was enough.
A last! My listening room. A good day.
A last! My listening room. A good day.
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