Maybe so, but...
didn't Krell put a green led(s) inside of the CD bay on one of it's transports a few years back?
didn't Krell put a green led(s) inside of the CD bay on one of it's transports a few years back?
But Harry???
WHY does green work better than black (CD edges, not the LEDs--haven't seen too many of those in black yet!)?
And while I've read about the LED tweek before, I also remember that there was a big push a few years ago to be able to switch off LED displays completely as they were thought to be detrimental to the sound. Not questioning your results but it seems to be a paradox. Perhaps the positive LED/CD effect is greater than the LED display detriment?
WHY does green work better than black (CD edges, not the LEDs--haven't seen too many of those in black yet!)?
And while I've read about the LED tweek before, I also remember that there was a big push a few years ago to be able to switch off LED displays completely as they were thought to be detrimental to the sound. Not questioning your results but it seems to be a paradox. Perhaps the positive LED/CD effect is greater than the LED display detriment?
(didn't Krell put a green led(s) inside of the CD bay on one of it's transports a few years back?)
I think Krell uses the leds more as a current source rather than shine a light inside the player.
I think Krell uses the leds more as a current source rather than shine a light inside the player.
Green Led
Magnavox used to put a green Led shining on the CD in thier CD players! The reason displays can effect the sound is that they are driven by a micro which generates all kinds of RF noise. Most do not use leds by the way. There was the audio equivalent of an Urban Legend floating around in a British audio magazine about the LED pilot light screwing up the sound. Me and Jocko love to use them as voltage references since they are quiet when baised correctly. Most zeners generate a LOT of voltage noise. Whoops there I go reading ap notes and data sheets again. I also use tiny light bulbs as feedback elements in low distotion oscillators.
H.H.
Magnavox used to put a green Led shining on the CD in thier CD players! The reason displays can effect the sound is that they are driven by a micro which generates all kinds of RF noise. Most do not use leds by the way. There was the audio equivalent of an Urban Legend floating around in a British audio magazine about the LED pilot light screwing up the sound. Me and Jocko love to use them as voltage references since they are quiet when baised correctly. Most zeners generate a LOT of voltage noise. Whoops there I go reading ap notes and data sheets again. I also use tiny light bulbs as feedback elements in low distotion oscillators.
H.H.
Attachments
Re: But Harry???
Hello Lonestar,
IMO the green tinting of te CD edges was not the only key thing although the green colour may absorb some stray light.
The second key thing was the etching ink which dissolved the edge surfaces a bit, leaving the surfece rough and scattering the light. I remember having not as near the results with permanent green felt pen as with usig etching ink used for technical drawings.
Hello Lonestar,
IMO the green tinting of te CD edges was not the only key thing although the green colour may absorb some stray light.
The second key thing was the etching ink which dissolved the edge surfaces a bit, leaving the surfece rough and scattering the light. I remember having not as near the results with permanent green felt pen as with usig etching ink used for technical drawings.
OK, here are a couple of things I think are phoney baloney, versus what I have experienced for real:
Phony baloney:
Litz wire interconnects.
Silver solder (what the ehck can 1 or 2% silver do???)
oxygen free wire (how long did that one last?)
Monster cable (10 gauge) for anything less than 1000 watts.
Star wiring (perhaps this one really needs to be explained to me, but I see nor hear any benefit).
Personal actual audible improvements:
Go to higher quality thin strand 16 gauge wire versus standard 16 gauge stranded.
20 gauge stranded versus 28 gauge solid for point to point wiring.
Definitely the best tubes or transistors you can afford.
The most precise resistors you can afford (not metal versus tantalum versus carbon comp, but precision, like 1 or 2%ers)
Just use good poly or mica film caps versus paper. Paper leaks too much. The oil ones are too expensive for the return. But if money is no object, copper foil in oil.
Degauss the phono cartridge without the stylus in it, if moving magnet is in the stylus housing. Improves high end response dramatically.
A little NFB does go a loooooong way!
These are just a handful of thing for both sides.
Gabe
Phony baloney:
Litz wire interconnects.
Silver solder (what the ehck can 1 or 2% silver do???)
oxygen free wire (how long did that one last?)
Monster cable (10 gauge) for anything less than 1000 watts.
Star wiring (perhaps this one really needs to be explained to me, but I see nor hear any benefit).
Personal actual audible improvements:
Go to higher quality thin strand 16 gauge wire versus standard 16 gauge stranded.
20 gauge stranded versus 28 gauge solid for point to point wiring.
Definitely the best tubes or transistors you can afford.
The most precise resistors you can afford (not metal versus tantalum versus carbon comp, but precision, like 1 or 2%ers)
Just use good poly or mica film caps versus paper. Paper leaks too much. The oil ones are too expensive for the return. But if money is no object, copper foil in oil.
Degauss the phono cartridge without the stylus in it, if moving magnet is in the stylus housing. Improves high end response dramatically.
A little NFB does go a loooooong way!
These are just a handful of thing for both sides.
Gabe
There is a sucker born every minute
Ok Bernard, you asked for it - 200pF || to 4.7µF of superior quality is not voodoo from the engineer's point of view.
BTW - Do you watch "Get Smart" ? 😀
More seriously I also find the resultant change in sound is not voodoo when demonstrated to the non technical.
Of course it is audible, and so there will be (is) a perfectly rational explanation.
Audio systems are typically reactive systems and full of resonances of all types, so it is to be expected that just about any change will cause an audible, albeit subtle change.
The trick is to end up with a nice sounding set of resonances !
Some days I can only take so much ******** ! ...oops, did I say that. 🙂
Regards, Eric.
Ok Bernard, you asked for it - 200pF || to 4.7µF of superior quality is not voodoo from the engineer's point of view.
BTW - Do you watch "Get Smart" ? 😀
More seriously I also find the resultant change in sound is not voodoo when demonstrated to the non technical.
Of course it is audible, and so there will be (is) a perfectly rational explanation.
Audio systems are typically reactive systems and full of resonances of all types, so it is to be expected that just about any change will cause an audible, albeit subtle change.
The trick is to end up with a nice sounding set of resonances !
Another neat trick is to spin the great unwashed an incredible yarn, fleece them of their $85.00 for a couple of lengths of bell wire, and keep a straight face whilst doing it !
Some days I can only take so much ******** ! ...oops, did I say that. 🙂
Regards, Eric.
more tweaks
On the subject, try a chunk of Galena, or Iron Pyrites on your CDP and take a listen, or a fridge magnet, or a brick, or Yellow pages, or White pages, or .........
Regards, Eric.
On the subject, try a chunk of Galena, or Iron Pyrites on your CDP and take a listen, or a fridge magnet, or a brick, or Yellow pages, or White pages, or .........
Regards, Eric.
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