Nope. Amps power light and protect light are lit. Not getting any switching in the power supply.
You can't have supply to the regulators until both supplies are running. Are all of the PS FETs in it?
TL494 is ok and I was getting switching a while back. Just has output issues. But now nothing. There was a dead regulator in the power supply drive circut that's since been replaced(amp now powers up but in protect
Copy and paste the following list and fill in the blanks. If there is no blank space after the colon, add one between the colon and the numbers you enter. It makes it much easier to read.
DCV on all terminals of the 494.
Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin 4:
Pin 5:
Pin 6:
Pin 7:
Pin 8:
Pin 9:
Pin 10:
Pin 11:
Pin 12:
Pin 13:
Pin 14:
Pin 15:
Pin 16:
DCV on all terminals of the 494.
Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin 4:
Pin 5:
Pin 6:
Pin 7:
Pin 8:
Pin 9:
Pin 10:
Pin 11:
Pin 12:
Pin 13:
Pin 14:
Pin 15:
Pin 16:
I'll get that list for the 494 now but first I noticed this voltage reg in the power supply
is acting odd. This was the one that needed to be replaced. Now seeing +11v on all 3 legs
Pin 1 - 0v
Pin 2 - 5.47
Pin 3 - 4.66
Pin 4 - 0v
Pin 5 - 2.08 saw tooth
Pin 6 - 4.09
Pin 7 - 0v
Pin 8 - 0v
Pin 9 - 0v
Pin 10 - 0v
Pin 11- 11.9v
Pin 12 - 11.9v
Pin 13 - 5.48v
Pin 14 - 5.48
Pin 15 - 0v
Pin 16 - 0v
Pin 2 - 5.47
Pin 3 - 4.66
Pin 4 - 0v
Pin 5 - 2.08 saw tooth
Pin 6 - 4.09
Pin 7 - 0v
Pin 8 - 0v
Pin 9 - 0v
Pin 10 - 0v
Pin 11- 11.9v
Pin 12 - 11.9v
Pin 13 - 5.48v
Pin 14 - 5.48
Pin 15 - 0v
Pin 16 - 0v
Correction
Pin 14 - 5.56
Pin 15- 4.3v
Remote wire jumped out there for a sec I didn't notice as I was typing that's why 0v was on 14 and 15
Pin 14 - 5.56
Pin 15- 4.3v
Remote wire jumped out there for a sec I didn't notice as I was typing that's why 0v was on 14 and 15
There is no point n doing any more testing until ALL of that brown fixative is gone.
Clean the board with acetone and a toothbrush to get rid of all flux and corrosion.
There is no regulator in that photo.
Pin 8 should have the same voltage as pin 11.
The IC is somewhat (at least) defective because the 5v regulator is out of tolerance. They will sometimes function like this and sometimes they won''t.
Clean the board with acetone and a toothbrush to get rid of all flux and corrosion.
There is no regulator in that photo.
Pin 8 should have the same voltage as pin 11.
The IC is somewhat (at least) defective because the 5v regulator is out of tolerance. They will sometimes function like this and sometimes they won''t.
No. It's labeled Q17. The Q prefix is a transistor prefix. The Regulators are ICs and have a U prefix, like the rest of the ICs.
Clean the face of Q17 with acetone and a swab to get the number off of it.
Clean that fixative. It can cause all sorts of problems and make troubleshooting impossible.
Clean the face of Q17 with acetone and a swab to get the number off of it.
Clean that fixative. It can cause all sorts of problems and make troubleshooting impossible.
Yes I noticed that brown stuff is taking its toll on the solder. I just don't have any acetone on hand only iso.
All the boards are the same geneal damage from that stuff
I'm not too fussed on this one Was just trying to make a x3200 out of them. I might move onto the alpine.
All the boards are the same geneal damage from that stuff
I'm not too fussed on this one Was just trying to make a x3200 out of them. I might move onto the alpine.
I'd prefer to stick with this one. Alcohol is fairly decent but stay away from heatsink compound. It makes a mess with that.
Peel/scrape the fixative off and clean with whatever you have.
Peel/scrape the fixative off and clean with whatever you have.
Yeah just got the alpine out I think it needs new output drivers. Definitely output fets. Which I don't have on hand.
The sound magus I'm never gonna use was just something to try.
I have a sound digital 12k or a taramps md8k any of those a bit more interesting for ya? The SD needs a few parts I don't know of and the MD8k has a smoked power supply plus its been a bit of a donor board....
The sound magus I'm never gonna use was just something to try.
I have a sound digital 12k or a taramps md8k any of those a bit more interesting for ya? The SD needs a few parts I don't know of and the MD8k has a smoked power supply plus its been a bit of a donor board....
The brazilian amps are sometimes difficult. There are people here who have information on them (I have limited information) but they won't always help.
Alpine class D have a low success rate.
Whatever you do, start a new thread for each separate amp.
The amps like this one have one of the highest success rates.
Alpine class D have a low success rate.
Whatever you do, start a new thread for each separate amp.
The amps like this one have one of the highest success rates.
Yeah I understand but I do have a guy to speak to about SD and Sam from barevids showed the part numbers in one of his videos so I could possibly get them. But there are also quiet a few blown ground traces fix 1 find 5 more.....
Alpine I'd like to get going for my own use but know there very difficult but atleast it's not a PDX 😉
Alpine I'd like to get going for my own use but know there very difficult but atleast it's not a PDX 😉
I'll try to help with whatever you post.
Start individual threads for each one and we'll try to chip away at them.
Start individual threads for each one and we'll try to chip away at them.
Hey perry I do know better trust me!!!! BUT.... how ya go luck wise with the 494s off ebay?
Need a few for amps I'm just messing around with. Wanna keep these parts cost as low as possible as these amps are really never gonna get used.
I always buy mosfets from reputable places but TL494s surly a little wiggle room....
Need a few for amps I'm just messing around with. Wanna keep these parts cost as low as possible as these amps are really never gonna get used.
I always buy mosfets from reputable places but TL494s surly a little wiggle room....
Why have to guess as to whether a part is good or counterfeit. Always buy from reputable distributors. The price difference isn't going to be that much if the parts are genuine.