Hi. Just out of curiosity does anyone have any photos or even better a scematic of the sound magus x3200?
Reason I ask is I have a bunch of sound magus 1500 boards here I'd like to try and link like they did in the x3200 model.
This is just to practise and learn. Not going to bother to build a case and use it.
I see there are a few photos on Facebook but I can't seem to open them...
Thanks
Reason I ask is I have a bunch of sound magus 1500 boards here I'd like to try and link like they did in the x3200 model.
This is just to practise and learn. Not going to bother to build a case and use it.
I see there are a few photos on Facebook but I can't seem to open them...
Thanks
Post a good quality photo of the component side of the entire main board and the component side of any driver boards.
OK. That's a common amp (clone). The first thing you MUST do it to remove 100% of that brown fixative. I think you'll find that it's conductive (and corrosive).
Yes soundstream use the same board. They all need a few things to be fixed up to be operational again. Currently chasing positive volatge everywhere so assume a negative supply has dropped out. And also trying to find out what type of octocuplers these are as there been shaved. (There faulty)
6N137. This is going to be a 'type 4' in the tutorial.
Are you saying that you have no negative voltage on any of the legs of any of the output transistors?
Are both supplies functioning in the board (lets deal with one board at a time), preferably one from a 1500 watt amp so it will have both power terminals and RCA jacks.
Are you saying that you have no negative voltage on any of the legs of any of the output transistors?
Are both supplies functioning in the board (lets deal with one board at a time), preferably one from a 1500 watt amp so it will have both power terminals and RCA jacks.
Oh and perry. I have an alpine MRP-M1000 here that I got in a parts lot. Been chasing issue after issue after issue. These run a PIC correct? Will not come out of protect if there like taramps then I can understand why. Because its missing so many parts (i dont know why a bit of the board is burned. Thats how i got it
There are volatge regulators (+5v) that have +19v on all legs even with VR removed. It has to be comming from the drive circut. There are a couple of other voltage regulators that are not showing life but I'm pretty sure I once saw negative voltage on them a while back. Now there is no negative voltage at all. The other VRs are doing nothing except 1 +5v that is +19v on all legs
This very well may be because I've removed both octocouplers I don't have any spares to use there all blown and I can't find a part number for them
Were you using the ground terminal of each regulator for the reference (black probe)? If not, you won't get the right voltages. Install the regulators.
6N137. I posted it earlier.
6N137. I posted it earlier.
Use your meter unless you're using a battery operated meter or are using your bench scope in differential mode. The grounds are not all at 0v.
All the 5v regulators are still working and test good in the tester and also multimeter on diode mode. There just missing there supply voltages and 1 is seeing 19v I can see the 19v on half of the output mosfet pads. So assume that's where it's comming from (yes 19v on all 3 pads of mosfets
OK, black on the ground terminal of the regulator you're testing.
You can't see 19v on all pads if your black probe is on the ground terminal of the regulator.
You can't see 19v on all pads if your black probe is on the ground terminal of the regulator.
Correct I no longer see the 19v. From top of photo top reg has nothing on it. Second one down nothing. 3rd one down that is actually taken off the board I'm seeing 4.3v on one of the legs. This is with multimeter probe ground on the heatsink side of the reg. I can reinstall the reg but it does not change anything
Do you have 24v of square wave on all drain legs of all PS FETs (black probe on primary ground)?