I do like Grimberg does regarding fuses. Recommended.
Another question: Are PCBs of the original "Part 2" amplifier available? The one with the double amount of VFETs compared to the kit? PCBs or Gerberfiles?
Regds
Another question: Are PCBs of the original "Part 2" amplifier available? The one with the double amount of VFETs compared to the kit? PCBs or Gerberfiles?
Regds
I do like Grimberg does regarding fuses. Recommended.
Another question: Are PCBs of the original "Part 2" amplifier available? The one with the double amount of VFETs compared to the kit? PCBs or Gerberfiles?
Regds
Thanks to you and Grimberg for your reponses.
Re PCB: Tea-bag has a design and GB going on right now:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/grou...ersion-2-al-boards-tea-bag-3.html#post4884995
However, I'm also very intrigued by Nagini's response here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/276711-sony-vfet-amplifier-part-2-a-85.html#post4559523
Dennis
Thank you Dennis. I contacted Tea-bag.
I hope (and believe) I have enough VFETs to get good matches.
/RK
I hope (and believe) I have enough VFETs to get good matches.
/RK
Thanks all for comments!
+ The XLR jacks just connect pin 2 (HOT) and pin 3 (COLD), not use pin 1 (GROUND) => without ground loop.😛
+ The schottky rectifier is 40A and 45VDC reverse so the Vf is very low => just a little warm when running😎
+ I use only one 3A fuse in this amp😉
+ About the PCB: my first PCB from bad PCB maker so now I order from another PCB maker with higher quality: 2mm thick, 2 OZ copper and gold plate. I just build some PCBs for my friends and send to two members in this forum as a gift, not for sale. This is the design and copyright by Mr Pass so I can't public if I have no approve from him😛
+ The XLR jacks just connect pin 2 (HOT) and pin 3 (COLD), not use pin 1 (GROUND) => without ground loop.😛
+ The schottky rectifier is 40A and 45VDC reverse so the Vf is very low => just a little warm when running😎
+ I use only one 3A fuse in this amp😉
+ About the PCB: my first PCB from bad PCB maker so now I order from another PCB maker with higher quality: 2mm thick, 2 OZ copper and gold plate. I just build some PCBs for my friends and send to two members in this forum as a gift, not for sale. This is the design and copyright by Mr Pass so I can't public if I have no approve from him😛
Again, very nice build.Thanks all for comments!
+ The XLR jacks just connect pin 2 (HOT) and pin 3 (COLD), not use pin 1 (GROUND) => without ground loop.😛
+ The schottky rectifier is 40A and 45VDC reverse so the Vf is very low => just a little warm when running😎
+ I use only one 3A fuse in this amp😉
+ About the PCB: my first PCB from bad PCB maker so now I order from another PCB maker with higher quality: 2mm thick, 2 OZ copper and gold plate. I just build some PCBs for my friends and send to two members in this forum as a gift, not for sale. This is the design and copyright by Mr Pass so I can't public if I have no approve from him😛
So, the XLR is used as a single ended connector just replacing the RCA.
Where do you obtain the tantalum resistors?
Regds
/RK
Anyone use 2SK1530/2SJ201 for Q7 and Q8 instead of IRFP240/9240 ? Any advantage in sound quality ?
Regards
Regards
cascodes are usually meant to be invisible , sound wise
it would be waste , if you ask moi
Thanks
Oh! Your eyes is very good because you saw the tantalum resistors on the board😱Again, very nice build.
So, the XLR is used as a single ended connector just replacing the RCA.
Where do you obtain the tantalum resistors?
Regds
/RK
I used z-foil resistor for input and some Audio Note tantalum resistors on the signal path, you can follow this link below:
0.5W Audio Note Tantalum resistors | Hifi Collective
Thank you very much. Although my eyes are still very good, I must admit I remember you wrote about using tantalum in an earlier post. In you earlier build the silver (or natural alu) finished chassis.
I bought tantalum resistors from Erno Borbely earlier - for a RIAA. Twenty years ago.
/RK
I bought tantalum resistors from Erno Borbely earlier - for a RIAA. Twenty years ago.
/RK
In the previous Sony VFET P2, I used Audio Note tantalum non-magnetic, this amp just using the normal Audio Note tantalum😎Thank you very much. Although my eyes are still very good, I must admit I remember you wrote about using tantalum in an earlier post. In you earlier build the silver (or natural alu) finished chassis.
I bought tantalum resistors from Erno Borbely earlier - for a RIAA. Twenty years ago.
/RK
There is another tantalum resistor, that is Shinkoh and I think it's good😉, you can follow this link:
Shinkoh Tantalum Resistors | Hifi Collective
Using such expensive parts is an argument towards minimalistic circuit topologies.
But thank you for the links.
But thank you for the links.
cascodes are usually meant to be invisible , sound wise
it would be waste , if you ask moi
How much heat sinking is needed for these cascode mosfets?
Depending on the specific build, I see them mounted on the main heat sink or not. Is amp bias/offset more stable when the mosfets are thermally coupled to the VFETs?
Any reason a Tekpower-TP3005D-3 DC Linear power supply wouldn't be adequate for my mosfet/vfet testing needs?
https://www.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP3...id=1480099498&sr=8-6&keywords=Tekpower+linear
https://www.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP3...id=1480099498&sr=8-6&keywords=Tekpower+linear
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