Sony CDP-222ESD tweaking

[Kitjunky]

If you have a digi multimeter why dont you measure the current drawn from each reg. then youll be able to find if and where its going. Please dont say you havnt got a meter. its an essential tool when doing this stuff

Chris

 

[rfbrw]

At first, I replaced it with the same type (AD826), but after I've tryed ne5532 (stock configuration)...
Results were the same....
Note: AD826 was working in that place for 2 years now with no problems, until 2-3 days ago, when I messed something up

Just bought and installed some new voltage regs, but still, everythings the same

Cheers

P.S. I'm running out of ideas, maybe I'll take the player to local Sony service center in a few days..

Have you checked the voltages around IC401?

 

[guytou]

Hi , if your tensions are correct , you should try to disconnect the analog PS before the regs(even at the rectifiers,i haven't the shematics)and check if the temp becomes normal, if that , the mistake is in this section, anyway , there is a way , it's not dead yet ...

 

[Scorpio(DDMF)!]

A little break to re-group

Noooo
Not a Sony service.
They will skin you alive...

Well, I was going to leave the unit there for diagnostic only (10$ or so), and, after that, if I don't like the price of the repair, I would try to do it myself

Are you sure you didn't mount a cap with reversed polarity after a regulator?
Also, check for shorts, follow the PSU tracks after the regs, measure.
Remove the TDA1541A dac chip and turn on the player.
Don't quit.

I'm quite sure, I triple-check it...
My thinking is in that way to ( the DAC, wich is an TDA1541 - rare damn! ). I'll desolder it form the PCB (wich is gonna be a real hassle ), and try the player without it .... I presume it's safe?
BTW: I don't quit easylly

If you have a digi multimeter why dont you measure the current drawn from each reg. then youll be able to find if and where its going. Please dont say you havnt got a meter. its an essential tool when doing this stuff

Chris

Well, I don't have an digital one - mine is analog

Have you checked the voltages around IC401?

THX, I'll check them...

Hi , if your tensions are correct , you should try to disconnect the analog PS before the regs(even at the rectifiers,i haven't the shematics)and check if the temp becomes normal, if that , the mistake is in this section, anyway , there is a way , it's not dead yet ...

I don't consider it a gonner yet ...
It still has an bypass mod to do in the future ...

I'm going to take a break from troubleshooting for a day or two to relax(been snooping inside this player for days now, and lost my nervs and patience )...
After that, gonna buy a socket for the DAC, and then try all the suggestions...

If things get realy bad, there is allways the service centar

Just to say thanks to you guys for staying in the game all this time

Cheers...

 

[carlosfm]

Re: A little break to re-group

My thinking is in that way to ( the DAC, wich is an TDA1541 - rare damn! ). I'll desolder it form the PCB (wich is gonna be a real hassle ), and try the player without it .... I presume it's safe?

Yes, it's safe.
BTW put a socket there.

 

[guytou]

Hi scorpio , desolder the 1541 is , at my sense ,not a good idea : If you are thinking thats a problem in the 1541 relative to the PS , it's better to isolate it by cutting the 3 paths (+5,-5,-15).The result would be the same but you would'nt stress (thermically/mechanically)the poor 1541 !That was the same idea for the analog section , just for checking the temp .

2- a thing i've never heard on theses forum ,you MUST solder only with a low voltage soldering station , i've already fryed a digital filter (YM3414) with a 220V iron !

 

[guytou]

3-putting the 1541 on a socket would be a bad idea , regarding the frequency it works .

 

[guido]

Hi,

If you have opamps doing the i/v conversion, removing the tda will most definitely give you a hot ps: the opamps draw a lot of current with the - pen not connected

 

[Scorpio(DDMF)!]

An update

Hi,

I've checked voltages on TDA's and IC401 and IC501's pins...

All voltages are normal( TDA p15: -15V, p26: -5V, p28: 5V, IC401: p4: -15V, p8: 15V, IC501: p4: -15V, p8: 15V).

Because it isn't safe to just "disable" the tda1541 (Guido's observation), can I "disable" the TDA (by isolating it's supply pins) and remove the opamps too, and then see if regulators are getting hot?

THX,

Cheers...

 

[rfbrw]

Re: An update

Hi,

I've checked voltages on TDA's and IC401 and IC501's pins...

All voltages are normal( TDA p15: -15V, p26: -5V, p28: 5V, IC401: p4: -15V, p8: 15V, IC501: p4: -15V, p8: 15V).

Because it isn't safe to just "disable" the tda1541 (Guido's observation), can I "disable" the TDA (by isolating it's supply pins) and remove the opamps too, and then see if regulators are getting hot?

THX,

Cheers...

Have you checked the voltages on the others pins of the opamps ? Having the input or the output pins at the supply rails in a sign something may be wrong.
BTW is the TDA1541 getting hot? I once had a dead one and it was too hot to touch.

 

[Scorpio(DDMF)!]

Haven't check other pins of the op-amps, just the supply ones... (will check the ins and outs)

TDA gets "a litlle warmer then warm" after an hour of working...

Cheers...

 

[guido]

Re: An update

Hi,

Because it isn't safe to just "disable" the tda1541 (Guido's observation), can I "disable" the TDA (by isolating it's supply pins) and remove the opamps too, and then see if regulators are getting hot?

THX,

Cheers...

You can connect the unused opamp pens to ground. DAC output is range is -4mA to 0mA. Connecting to ground would be equal to dac output=0mA, so a valid option.

 

[Scorpio(DDMF)!]

Everything seems to be in order...

Hi everyone,

Sorry for the delay, but I was very busy these couple of weeks.

As for the cd-player, it seems that it's supposed to run that hot, and that it's normal - I test it for couple of days, and it still plays (Whenever it runs for a long time, it lets off an funny smell of heating electronics, and it has been like that allways )

Sorry for bothering you with it, but I'm one paranoid man when it comes to electronics

OK, back to tweaking....

The capacitor change has improved the sound (fuller sound, better midrange, less sibilance), but I'm very anctious to try the passive I/V mod

I've attached an image with the modified diagram of the player's analog section (Thx a lot James! ):

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

The red dots indicate the connections to break, and green coloured stuff represents added elements, and their placement...

Question: Should I use an nice 4,7 µF poly-propilene, or somethin else?

I was thinking to add an gain stage bettwen A and C, and B and D, something like this (dual) with OP275 op-amp, without input capacitor (1 is already in the diagram), with gain set to 5...

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Your toughs?

Cheers

 

[Scorpio(DDMF)!]

Any sugestions?

Cheers...

 

[rfbrw]

Any sugestions?

Cheers...

Does the gain stage have to be solid-state?

 

[Scorpio(DDMF)!]

Does the gain stage have to be solid-state?

Well, I've never worked with tubes so far, they seem rather dificult to implement correctly (more things can go wrong ).
Maybe I'll try that in not so distant future, when I do more research on them.

I also have the afformentioned stage already build (serving as my headphone amp. at the moment), so it's a easyer way to go

I was wondering if I the idea posted in my previus post is OK?

Also, wich (and what kind) of capacitor should I use?

Apprishiate the help...

Cheers...

 

[rfbrw]

Well, I've never worked with tubes so far, they seem rather dificult to implement correctly (more things can go wrong ).
Maybe I'll try that in not so distant future, when I do more research on them.

I've always found the solid state stuff to be less robust.

I also have the afformentioned stage already build (serving as my headphone amp. at the moment), so it's a easyer way to go

I was wondering if I the idea posted in my previus post is OK?

Also, wich (and what kind) of capacitor should I use?

Apprishiate the help...

Cheers...

Your diagram is not clear enough for me to make out what you have done. It looks like you have hung a pair of capacitors off the outputs and thats it. Are there any resistors grounding the outputs?

 

[Scorpio(DDMF)!]

Your diagram is not clear enough for me to make out what you have done. It looks like you have hung a pair of capacitors off the outputs and thats it. Are there any resistors grounding the outputs?

I haven't done anything yet

About the resistors: Yes, there are two resistors on the diagram - green things resembeling resistor symbols (didn't labeled them dough ), wich are connecting TDA's AOL and AOR outputs to the ground - they are much easyer to spot on the Hi-res version of the picture (just click on the "normal" picture). These resistors were ment to be 100 ohm, like suggested.
Also, the red dots indicate connections that should be dissconnected, while green dots are the new connections.

I'm not sure about caps size and type...

Also, I'm wondering what would be the best metod to dissconect the rest of circuit behind the DAC, as soon as I add passive I/V. Would simple removing of op-amps IC501 and IC401 do the trick?

Cheers.

 

[rfbrw]

Looks like you have 4 passive components as well as the IC connected to each output. You may well have to cut the track somewhere unless you choose to socket the chip and let the output pins float.
As to resistor size, this forum is full of suggestions as a search will show.

 

[cylau]

My disk compartment cannot open

Hi friends,

I have a CDP-222ESD.
When I pressed the "load" button, a motor locking sound is heard but the disk compartment cannot be ejected. I have dis-assembly the player and replace the rubber ring. However the problem still happens. I found that there is a cap acoss the loading motor. Do everyone have the idea on how to solve this problem?

Tommy Lau