I think they are woofers made by Scan Speak, possibly with some modification requested by Sonus Faber, the magnet seems reinforced. Troels Gravesen made a similar construction. I think you have to go to SF, or replace the two woofers of the two cabinets. In the first case, you will probably have a higher expense but the security of the correct speaker. In the second case, you may be able to save some money, but I don't think the TS parameters are the same.
https://www.scan-speak.dk/technical/diy/
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Revelator-4R.htm
https://www.scan-speak.dk/technical/diy/
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Revelator-4R.htm
Attachments
Thanks for links... appreciate!
Sure the correct part is the best solution.
I tried to find the SF assistance but, as far I can see, there is no a direct support.
I will search further.
Thanks again
Enrico
Sure the correct part is the best solution.
I tried to find the SF assistance but, as far I can see, there is no a direct support.
I will search further.
Thanks again
Enrico
See here
https://www.sonusfaber.com/it/assistenza/distributori-internazionali
but it seems you are in Vietnam
Dong Thanh - Hoa Phuc Co. Ltd.
lienhe@hoaphucaudio.com
94, Street 14, Him Lam Residential Area, Tan Hung Ward, District 7
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam 70000
84903777643
www.dongthanh-hoaphuc.vn
Ciao,
Thanks for the reply. Actually yes, I live in Vietnam and I already give a look to the distributors in the list from SF, both in Italy and Vietnam.
In Vietnam they are just distributors, sometime just in the website. If you want to buy a particular product they will order for you. Sure there is no technical assistance for repair or maintenance.
Few years ago I ask help to the SF support directly for the Minima that I bought for my son. Never get a reply...
Today I write again to the SF support asking help for this woofer. I hope they will reply sooner or later.
Cheers,
Enrico
Whatever the part you may be getting from SF, it'll be very expensive, I suppose.
You will be better served by buying directly from Scan Speak.
You will be better served by buying directly from Scan Speak.
That would nice but I have no idea who, in Vietnam where I live, can make this kind of repair.
Thanks anyway
Enrico
I agreed with you, will be expensive but look like is a special part designed for SF.
I checked already in Scan Speak catalog and there is nothing with that part number.
Thanks guys for your help... appreciate!
Enrico
It’s probably a pretty stock 15W8530G or 15W8531G with magnetic shield for CRT tv sets. Of course SF wants to let us believe it’s proprietary, but fact is the DIY units are quite optimal implementations. If you don’t care about restoring the SF 100 percent, get the Revelators.
Btw, did the litze wires come loose (known issue) or is there another defect?
Btw, did the litze wires come loose (known issue) or is there another defect?
Thanks Mark, actually I don't care too much to be SF 100%, what I care is that the speaker remain with the same sound.
I give a look to the speaker and gently I pull the wire to see if they are loose where join the cone but seems all good.
It's sure the coil because with the ohmmeter measure Mohm but I can't see anything wrong in the connections.
I just checked in the Scan Speak website and there are 3 Revelators available but not the ones you mention
I give few days to SF support to reply to my email.
If as I suspect nothing will happen I will try to get one of the 3 above from Scan Speak.
Thanks a lot for you help.
I will let you know...
Cheers,
Enrico
I give a look to the speaker and gently I pull the wire to see if they are loose where join the cone but seems all good.
It's sure the coil because with the ohmmeter measure Mohm but I can't see anything wrong in the connections.
I just checked in the Scan Speak website and there are 3 Revelators available but not the ones you mention
I give few days to SF support to reply to my email.
If as I suspect nothing will happen I will try to get one of the 3 above from Scan Speak.
Thanks a lot for you help.
I will let you know...
Cheers,
Enrico
Check if you have the 8 or 4 Ohm, coated/uncoated version.
From the link in the above post:
"4" for 4 Ohms, "R" for ring-radiator. Just to get the name in place. 15W/4531G00 is the more lively sibling in the Revelator 15W family of drivers. "30" means coated, "31" is un-coated. "45" means 4 Ohms version...
From the link in the above post:
"4" for 4 Ohms, "R" for ring-radiator. Just to get the name in place. 15W/4531G00 is the more lively sibling in the Revelator 15W family of drivers. "30" means coated, "31" is un-coated. "45" means 4 Ohms version...
That's nice question and those are very valuable information. Thanks!
The speakers are 4 ohm and probably the woofer are 4 ohm too but to know exactly I need to open the other speaker and measure.
Pity I have open also the other the speaker because are quite old and to remove the woofer I need to force with a screwdriver on the skin covering but I will do.
In the Scan Speak website only the 15W/4531G00 are available, so 4 ohm are only un-coated.
The speakers are 4 ohm and probably the woofer are 4 ohm too but to know exactly I need to open the other speaker and measure.
Pity I have open also the other the speaker because are quite old and to remove the woofer I need to force with a screwdriver on the skin covering but I will do.
In the Scan Speak website only the 15W/4531G00 are available, so 4 ohm are only un-coated.
[Edit] It’s likely that you need the 4Ω version. The 15W4531G is a good replacement, the only one available for DIY. In fact, Scan offered a shielded version in the past too. Resembles your SF version 😉
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If SF doesn't answer in a week, you can maybe ask to SS as they are involved in DIY communauty and support Troels Gravsen.
It costs nothing to ask them saying you have no support from SF. You send them a nice picture of your speaker serie number, plus the unit and ask them what is the nearest model in the regular line in order to save you and buy a pair !
It should not be hard to find it though, as was said already : coated, not coated and impedance gives you few choice if you measure the diameter of the thick aluminium pole piece under the spider. measure with a DVM the impedance of the working unit to be sure between 8 and 4 ohms at reading the specs on datasheet or drivers reviews site like Dibirama or Hificompass if they have tested the regular model you target. I will ask Dibirama too as an countryfellow of you that knows maybe more SF products and also sell SS units !
Vietnam climate must be hard indeed for the Revs' !
If you see no green wires through the back of the cone to the spider, you could perhaps try to open the shielding can carrefully.
Edit : if it is the rotten behavior , the second should not be so long to break too ! Worth to performs some impedance meassurement and find a Vietnam diy fellow who can perform a Dayton V3 bo or similar ? It will help you to understand the filter and adapt it with the new units if some corrction must be made in the filter values on the croossoverr crossing sections.
It costs nothing to ask them saying you have no support from SF. You send them a nice picture of your speaker serie number, plus the unit and ask them what is the nearest model in the regular line in order to save you and buy a pair !
It should not be hard to find it though, as was said already : coated, not coated and impedance gives you few choice if you measure the diameter of the thick aluminium pole piece under the spider. measure with a DVM the impedance of the working unit to be sure between 8 and 4 ohms at reading the specs on datasheet or drivers reviews site like Dibirama or Hificompass if they have tested the regular model you target. I will ask Dibirama too as an countryfellow of you that knows maybe more SF products and also sell SS units !
Vietnam climate must be hard indeed for the Revs' !
If you see no green wires through the back of the cone to the spider, you could perhaps try to open the shielding can carrefully.
Edit : if it is the rotten behavior , the second should not be so long to break too ! Worth to performs some impedance meassurement and find a Vietnam diy fellow who can perform a Dayton V3 bo or similar ? It will help you to understand the filter and adapt it with the new units if some corrction must be made in the filter values on the croossoverr crossing sections.
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Prying will probably damage the coating, it's not necessary. Pick some screws that thread into the speaker holes (you already have one out, try that one), give them a few turns, then apply some force upward with a pair of pliers (alternate a little bit at each hole, I don't think you need much force, you know what you're doing).
Try not to drop the tool on the cone, or you'll have to replace both speakers ....😒
PS:
Which I would do anyway, because I don't think you'll get the exact same model - discontinued - and it will change the sound if you put in something similar, but not exact.
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Hi, most likely one of the connections under the adhesive that holds the litz wire to the speaker cone is corroded, although it is not visible to the naked eye.
I have a pair of 18w8531G00 and one day suddenly one of them stopped working, I took the unit apart and checked it with the multimeter and it
gave me an open circuit.
So I left the multimeter on the speaker and with an awl very carefully I was poking at the adhesive that joins the litz wire to the speaker cone until for a moment it worked again.
I carefully freed the litz wire and it was affected, and under the adhesive the connection was corroded.
The solution I did was to replace the litz wire with a new one.
I hope this helps you
I have a pair of 18w8531G00 and one day suddenly one of them stopped working, I took the unit apart and checked it with the multimeter and it
gave me an open circuit.
So I left the multimeter on the speaker and with an awl very carefully I was poking at the adhesive that joins the litz wire to the speaker cone until for a moment it worked again.
I carefully freed the litz wire and it was affected, and under the adhesive the connection was corroded.
The solution I did was to replace the litz wire with a new one.
I hope this helps you